Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check your lid switch. If the lid switch is not making proper contact, or is broken, the washer will fill, agitate (some model washers won't), then just stop when it gets to the spin cycle. If this is what you are experiencing, then this could be a quick and easy repair for you.
Try opening an closing the lid. If you don't hear a clicking noise when the lid closes, the lid switch may be bad or loose. It is mounted under the opening of the tub rim on the right-hand side and held in place with two screws. Make sure the lid strike ( a small plastic piece) is present on the lid as well. This closes the switch contacts when the lid closes. If the lid switch does not function, the washer will not complete a wash cycle.
If the determine the switch and/or lid strike is broken, searspartsdirect.com carries the parts need. Just type in the model number you provided and you will find the lid switch under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item #11 (part #3949238). The Lid Strike is under the same heading as item #20 (part #350733).
If you need advice on how to replace the lid switch please post back and let me know.
If I'm off the mark here, please post back with comments and give me a little more elaboration on what your washer is doing or not doing.
PS You do not need to drain the tub to replace the switch. If you wish to drain it, however, and want to by-pass the lid switch, I can give you instructions on how to do this as well.
Posted on Apr 14, 2008
You definitely have a broken motor coupling. This is the piece that connects the motor to the trasmission. The pump is connected directly to the motor on the other side opposite of the coupler. When they break, the water will drain but the washer will not spin.
Here is a repair manual that will help you replace the motor coupler.
If you have anymore questions please ask. This is an inexpensive repair and something you can do yourself. Just refer to the coupler in the manual and you won't have any issues.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main
agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
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