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Why is my A/C condenser compressor overheating, causing compressor to turn on and off every 4 minutes?

Enough Freon was put in and the refrigerant line started to freeze. My air handler is a Trane 3 1/2 ton, model no.2tec3f42c1000AA

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  • 334 Answers

Are the outdoor and indoor fans working? The refrigerant line leaving the condensor(toward the evaporator) should feel warm to touch, the refrigerant line leaving the evaporator (toward the compressor) should be cold and sweaty. What's going on?

Posted on Apr 28, 2015

Testimonial: "both outdoor and indoor fans are working. lines leaving the evaporator towards the condenser has to be cold because lines are frozen(both in the inside and the outside unit. the lines leaving the compressor toward the condenser coil gets really hot but as it comes out of the condenser coil toward the evaporator is not warm."

  • Jorge Rosado Apr 30, 2015

    If the refrigerant line between the condensor and the evaporator is freezing up, there is a pressure drop. Refrigerant cools when it changes from a high pressure to a low pressure. The likely place to loose pressure is the liquid line filter/dryer, it sometimes clogs or restricts the flow due to contaminants and must be replaced. A simple test is to locate the point in the refrigeration line where the temperature changes.
    There should be no restrictions from the compressor all the way to the expansion valve (metering valve, capilary tube, or check valve in heat pump units), the expansion valve is where the high pressure liquified refrigerant changes to low pressure and evaporates, cools off, the only place the pressure should drop.
    As Robert indicated, a condensor fan cycling device can be installed. A pressure switch that controls the condensor fan, it will keep the fan from running at low pressure and energyze the fan at normal operating pressure. Pressure is needed for the change from high to low pressure at the txv valve, for refrigerant flow velocity and oil circulation in the system.

  • Jorge Rosado Apr 30, 2015

    Temperature and pressure of refrigerant, gas or liquid, are directly proportional. Ideally it should be about 110* liquid line and just above freezing suction.http://www.advantageengineering.com/fyi/...

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THERMOSTATE SIGNAL SHOWING OVER HEATING AND NOT RUNNING NORMAL ,HENCE OVER HEATING TRY CLEANING MAY HAVE DUST OR IT COULD BE THERASTSATE TO CONTROL AIR TO COOL

Posted on Apr 27, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: Compressor freezes up at night and some during day.

You are being ripped off. The ambient (outdoor) temperature at night is low and therefore proper condensing does not take place causing the refrigerant to pool in the condenser and starving the evaporator. This causes a lower temperature in the evaporator resulting in "freeze up" which is often mistaken for a loss of refrigerant.
The proper thing to be done is to block off the condenser air causing the high side pressure to rise until the eqivillant of 110*F condensing temperature.
You can also install a low ambient kit which will cycle the compressor off when the temperatures fall

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Carrier air handler tonnage?

That is a fairly large difference. It is usually ok to have the inside evap. coil and blower up to 1 ton larger than the outside condenser. That will make the unit slightly more efficient as well as less likely to freeze up on low airflow situations. It is not recommended to install a new condenser on an old evap coil. There has been a lot of changes to the design of the coils in the last little while. For example a 10 year old 2 ton coil may only have 3 cubic feet of volume but a new 2 ton coil may have 4 cubit feet of volume.

There are many factors that may have infulenced the decision on what size condenser to install. Many of which can only be done by visiting the home and doing alot of work, checking the duct sizing bioth supply and return, inspecting the insulation and windows of the home etc. etc. Most of the time that never gets done. You can blame the contractor for not doing a complete check, but at the same time you can blame the customer because many contractors that are that good loose the job to a cheaper bid that did not no any of the research. It is a catch 22 for everyone involved.

There is ALOT more to sizing equipment that many people think, sadly that also includes many HVAC contractors. Way too many people use "rule of thumbs" or flat out "guess".

Sorry for the rant but your queston can only be answered by a good well educated HVAC contractor visiting your home. That type of a contractor is getting hard to find these days in such a price competetive world.

Posted on Oct 14, 2008

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Trane AC Compressor fan cycling on and off.

it depends on the tempareture you have set that is why it was going on and off

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: 3 ton condensor and 2.5 air handler

I hate to use rules of thumb but 500sqft per ton depending on your windows and insulation. you are probably ok with a 2.5 ton however it will not work with a 3 ton outdoor unit as you have figured out. depending on how long that ac has been in you may want to replace it with a 2.5 ton due to the damage to the compressor valves because of the mis match. or if the indoor is newer and the original system may have been a 3 ton then i would replace the A/H. and be prepared to replace the outdoor if the valves are to far gone. If the trane is a new high effiency 2 and the goodman is just a 10 SEER you may be able to have a txv installed on the trane unit and a kickstart device outside. but only if its a high effiency but their again if the A/C fails you couldnt have a high effiency 3 ton you would have to drop down to 2.5,

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 3 ton split system using a Rudd 3 ton

Both the other solutions are NOT proper Advice, i'm not saying this a put down, but if you want it to be right both of those answers are wrong
The truth is if you replace the condenser weather its a heat pump or strait cool, you need to match the equipment inside, ALWAYS use matched equipment otherwise your setting yourself up for failure. I've seen a ton of mechanics in my industry really mess people up by mis matching, Also you can install or service anything with refrigerant in it with out an EPA license. Trust me do it right, cause I hate having to tell people after its to late. Another thing these two are not telling you is that you need to match the metering device to the outdoor unit in order for it to work properly as well, and by the FLUSHING is risky on a coil, ok with line sets but risky with a coil.

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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1 Answer

Why does my A/C condenser compressor turn on and off every 5 minutes?


You need good airflow across the indoor coil, the evaporator. Air warms the refrigerant. If there is no airflow, the refrigerant will come back out freezing cold (in liquid form) and can damage the compressor valves. Before charging any ac unit, good airflow must be checked for across both evaporator and condensor.
Too much, overcharging will cause freezing all the way back to the compressor in a capilary tube type of ac.
Where is it the refrigeration lines are freezing cold?

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Why does my Carrier 4 ton condenser compressor turn on and off ever 4 minutes?


have a ac specialist check the charge pressure in the system
I suspect that the refrigerant gas amount is not correct and the problem is that the pressures sensors are causing it to cycle according to the fluctating pressures

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LG LSC 27931ST refrigerator making clicking sound every 3 minutes I changed the start relay and still the same the freezer is cold and fresh foods I have ice in the ice machine the back was dirty I clean...


I am guessing the clicking is coming from the compressor (bottom back of fridge)? If yes, Most likely your compressor is getting too hot. You said you cleaned the coils which can be a major cause of an overheating compressor. You also changed the start relay, which was worth a shot. The next thing to check is your condenser fan. If your condenser fan is not working, then your compressor will overheat and click. I would check it next. If it is working, than more than likely your compressor is getting close to failing or a freon line is pinched. The interval is 3 minutes now, but will shorten as it gets closer to death. If the noise is coming from somewhere else, it could be several things like the defrost relay/circuit. You didn't mention a defrost problem though.

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Frigidaire refrigerator/freezer side by side--compressor keeps running


Most problems with side by sides frosting up is due to failure of the defrost heater in the bottom of the freezer section behind the panel inside.

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Reaons for hussman freezer compressors failuer Model No:NLD 2


Normally compressors fail due to overheating. But just like any machine that may run 24 housr a day 7 days a week, the compressor may just wear out. Overheating is caused primarily by stopped up condenser coils. The condenser coil is the radiator like object that sits close to the compressor and dissapates heat created by the compressor. Also if the fan behind the condenser coil fails because of an obstruction or fan motor burnout the heat will not be dissapated properly. The compressor has protection built in that should shut it off during an overheating situation, but it can't protect it over a period of time where the compressor keeps trying to start and shuts down due to overheating. If you look at the condenser coil in many cases you will find dust and or grease build up so dense that no air flows through the coil. This is simply neglect or not knowing that the coil needs to be cleaned periodically. Also, if you have a refrigerant (freon) leak, your compressor will overheat. The cold returning freon helps to keep the internal components of the compressor cool as well as keeping the oil inside the compressor churning up onto the internal components. If you have a leak, it is not sufficient to just add freon every once in a while. Leaks need to be fixed by finding the leak and welding the leak shut. No refrigeration system should require "gassing up" other than the initial charge of refrigerant. Overheating can also be caused by a lack of air flow through the condenser coils because there is no space around the machine for air to flow into and out of the compressor compartment. If you have recently replace a compressor and it goes bad again, it may be burnout residue from the previous compressor that clogs the lines after a burnout. I hope this answers your question.

Oct 12, 2010 | Freezers

1 Answer

Fridge/freezer not working but light is on,located in garage,which iss v cold


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Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

Not all refrigerators are insulated the same and not all condensers are in the same place. Your cold control is monitoring the temperature of the refrigerator section and is designed to turn off the compressor to keep things from freezing in that section. If it stays cold long enough outside in your garage the cold control thinks its cold enough and won't turn the compressor on. A makeshift closet to hold a little heat the unit generates will probably help.

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1 Answer

The compressor suddenly trip off and it runs and after few minutes it trip off again


Compressor tipping is typically due to overheating. A single bimetal disc thermostat (e.g. Klixon brand device) in located within the motor windings within hermetically sealed compressors which will cut off motor current after the local windings have sufficiently overheated.

Unfortunately, by the time this limiter has activated, the compressor motor and pump has typically already suffered mild to major damage.

Compressor overheating is typically a result of low freon. The freon, besides cooling the compressor, also carries the lubricant, so low freon results in a hot compressor with poor lubrication, with some degree of permanent damage by the time the internal limiter has activated.

There are a few other possibilities, depending on system design, but some version of the above scenario is typical.

When the compressor runs hot, this also initiates chemical changes in the freon and oil resulting in acids with further attack both the compressor pump, motor windings and motor bearings, a viscous circle.

Compressor overheating can also be a result of contaminants circulating within the freon or evolving mechanical failure problems within the compressor pump or motor.

Better systems (very few high end residential central AC systems) include OEM or field installed high freon pressure and low freon pressure cut out switches connected to circuits which stop the compressor and keep it off when pressure are well beyond desired.
These are far more effective in protecting the compressor and preventing permanent damage.

Additional protection options are a compressor discharge temperature limit switch (shuts off the compressor if the outlet freon goes well above desirable outlet temps), and a flow switch which sense adequate condenser fan air flow and only allows the compressor to run when adequate air flow is present (a second or so after the condenser fan has started). (Since condenser air flow is what removes all the system and interior heat, the compressor should not run unless airflow is appropriate.)

While all the above 4 safety device strategies are relatively inexpensive, they are not present in the vast majority of residential AC systems sold in the US.

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1 Answer

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. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.

Are the condenser coils on the back warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

evaporator coils are behind the rear cover inside the freezer at the bottom.
observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
Compressor or freon problem will require a repairman.

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1 Answer

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Check condenser fan that it is turning. Also it is possible you lost freon (leak) when it was moved. Take back cover off to see if fan is turning. Feel compressor to see if it's too hot indicating it lost freon,also feel the larger copper tube going into the compressor ,it sould be cold and sweating.

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