Question about Refrigerators
Thermostat turned all the way to colder, but milk still spoiling. Max temp lower rear shelf 42 degrees. Freezer fine.
FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these
Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.
Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.
But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.
Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity
Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.
REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"
Posted on May 06, 2015
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
it sounds as though you have a fridge that is low on freon. If the ice is appearing mostly to the left, then thats surely your problem. if it goes all the way across, you may have a bad evaporater fan motor, fan motor switch, bad cold control, or just a door that isn't closing or sealing properly. If its the ice mostly to the left side, it probably means your evaporater is leaking the freon. I am assuming you have a model that has a cold control on the back wall, not the electronic display by your description. If your unit is less than 12 years old by the installation date, the part will still be under warranty (sub zero has an unmatched 12 year sealed system parts warranty) but the labor and freon will not be. The repalcement of that evaporater in my area usually runs about $450 with labor, freon and trip all together. It is a repair you cannot do unless you have an acetlyn torch and some silver-soldering/ brazing ability. If your model is in fact the newer style with the electronic temp display, call sub zero up (the # is on the model/serial tag in the door jamb) and tell them wahts going on. If it is in fact an evaporater leaking on this style, they will most likely pay the bill for you even if its well out of the 5 year full warranty. If you want to know for sure, remove all the shelves, then remove the cover over the lights. Then if its electronic remove the 3 screws holding the top of the back panel and tilt the panel out to you and pull it up and out: if its a dial type, remove the 2 screws holding the fan cover and then tilt the back wall out to you and lift it up and outwards, but not too far as it wil pull the wires of that control knob (cold Control) Look at the coils back there and see if the coils are frosty. If they are only frosty on the upper left of the coil, its low on freon and needs an evaporater. if its frosty all the way across, top to bottom, you need a cold control, or possibly a fan or fan switch. Hopefuly you can wade through all this. Just post back if you have any questions. Good Luck!
Posted on Aug 16, 2007
Welcome to Fixya,
You said, freezer is fine the refrigerator is 50-65 does not get colder than 50.the evaporator fan is working but it seems to be blowing very little air
Have a 1998 Hotpoint Model # CTX16CAZDRAD Serial # ZS738209. The refrigerator is not cooling. Temp is at 66 degrees with setting at 5. The Freezer is working, but it seems to be running all the time. Please help!
There are a few things that come to mind!
The Freezer is working, but it seems to be running all the time, you said!.
This could be a bad thermostat!
But lets try some simple maintenance first!
Is your freezer packed too the hilt with packages???????
Where the articles cover the air vents in the freezer?
The freezer and the fridge share the cold air and the passages must not be blocking the cold air from moving out of the freezer!.Search your freezer !
Also your fridge is 10 years old!
Did you ever remove the plastic grille at the bottom of the fridge along the front, and GENTLY run a refrigerator brush along the black metal tubes running back and forth under the fridge?
( You can buy this brush at any hardware store $10.)
They must not be covered in ten years of lint and dust. These narrow tubes carry the freon and run in this parallel fashion back and forth, so they are cooled by the air being **** through them.
if not and they overheat your fridge will get warm.
If the tubes are found to be covered or submerged in dust sometimes I have found them one to two inches thick in dust, and sometimes they are even not visible until you clean the dust out.
Then it will take 10 to 24 hours for the system to get back to full working temperature again. As long as the heat did not cause permanent damage!
if these are not the answer, then you may need a hands on diagnoses!
BUT, most of the time these two things are what I find!
Let me know how it goes!!!!!!!!
Thank You for asking my advice!
Please remember to leave a rating for me!
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
SOURCE: sub zero
Is ice on the back cover on the left side? if it is you have a leak in the evaporator... if its under 12 yrs old call an authorized sub zero service it will be covered
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 06, 2014 | Amana Refrigerators
May 08, 2013 | Amana Refrigerators
Aug 19, 2011 | Frigidaire FRS26R4A Side by Side...
Nov 27, 2010 | Kenmore 64254 / 64252 / 64259 Top Freezer...
May 21, 2010 | Kenmore 74192 / 74194 Top Freezer...
May 07, 2010 | Refrigerators
Mar 07, 2010 | Refrigerators
Jan 01, 2010 | Whirlpool ES5FHAXS Side by Side...
May 04, 2009 | Refrigerators
Jun 03, 2008 | Refrigerators
55 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: