Question about Asko Dryers
Posted by Anonymous on
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!
Posted on May 04, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here's the answer:
The dryer has a thermo protection "fuse" that pops-out when the lint filter is not cleaned and air will not flow properly. When the airflow is restricted the dryer gets too hot and the "fuse" pops. Then it will not run unless you stand there and hold the start button in. As soon as you stop pressing the button the dyer stops running.
Clean the filter ESPECIALLY the "internal" filter. This one is behind the lower skirt of the machines face. There are two Torex head screws (T20) to be removed and the skirt comes right off.
Inside you see two red handles that you turn to open the filter door. Open the door and pull out the filter. It is a long metal finned box. Take it to your bathtub and run a ton of water through both ends to remove the lint inside. You'll be surprised at how much.
O K now let's "fix" the "fuse". Here it is likely you will need to pull the machine away from the wall. The fuse is a black plastic button about the size of a penny. It sits in the center of the machine's backside. It faces up a bit and if you have clearance you can reach your arm over the machines top and press it "in" with a finger. It clicks when you do so. This part is a no brainer. The dyer will now start properly.
The hard part to all of this is pulling the machine away from the wall since like me you probably have it sitting on top of an Asko washer. Take your time. You can do it.
Posted on Jan 21, 2008
SOURCE: ASKO T721 dryer - Squeaking
the dryer needs a service you need to replace the front rollers,jockey pulley and grease the jockey pin,check or replace the belt.remove the lint build up from the front frame and element assy.also check that the felt and rubber seal arond the front frame hasnt come out.you can replace it but its hard to get in and you may have to replace the front frame.i find its any easy repair but i see a lot of asko dryers (not because there bad they just need a service about every 5-7 years).hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 20, 2008
SOURCE: asko dryer blows fuse
Hi, there are a number of possibilties to why it blows a fuse, and since you've recently transported the unit that increases the number of things it usually may be, unfortunately making it harder to diagnos. I would start by checking the fuse holders themselves. The only way to really check them however is to replace the holder. The reason being this, even under normal use the fuse "hub" and "holder" wear due to metal fatigue. The holder has a small spring in it which doesn't apply enough force to allow the fuse to "seat" or contact properly in the "hub" and in turn creates added resistance ( heat ), greater resistance equals greater amperage and "poof" hence the fuse blows as soon as you try and start the unit. Of course other things may have been damaged during the move such as the heater. Try starting it on a "air dry" ( no heat ) cycle. If it doesn't blow a fuse you know it is related to the heater, contactor, ( what Asko refer's to as a relay switch ) or wiring to and from the heater. Hope this was helpful to move you forward. Let me know what you find and if I can assist you further I certainly will try. God knows I've seen alot of these Asko appliances ha ha ! **Sorry if this appears crampy writing and bunched together, I'm on my iphone and it's my only source to the internet at the moment.** Good luck, macmarkus :)
Posted on Apr 13, 2010
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