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Plastic rectangle power box with two connection points, one in front of the other and I'm not sure what order does the black [power] and white [neutral] wires are connected

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Look at the screws one is silver other is goldish white goes on silver . black on other one

Posted on May 11, 2015

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I need to replace my electric cord on my Craftsman circular saw. I have the replacement cord and have opened the saw. The new cord ends with just a black and white wire. But the old cords black and white...


my best advice is to sever the wires going into the unit at a point where they are in good condition, obtain a soldering device and solder, some heat shrink tubing addtiquit for the size of wire and connect your new power cord to the these ends, make cretin that the common or wight and the hot witch is black be connected respectively

Good luck and best regards Falco Mueller

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I lost my Leviton 6230M 30 mins timer installation sheet.


Switch has 2 black wires. One black is hot wire. One black is wire going to fan. Turn off power. Remove wires from switch and separate. Turn power back on. Using ordinary tester, test each black wire to bare copper ground wire. Only one of the black wires will test hot. The other black wire goes to fan.
Timer black wire connects to black hot
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I need to wire a 3 gang switches in a 3 gang box


before u start make sure power is off before working with electrical lines ---start with the 12/2 coming into box black [power] white [ground-neutral] and u will have 3 separate lines for the lights so u will have 4 lines total coming in the box== with the 3 light lines take the white and strip back the plastic and connect [wire nut] all 3 to the 12/2 white line --now take the 12/2 black line and connect it to the first switch gold color screw- bottom screw -now take some wire about 2-3 inch strip both ends and connect from the 12/2 black wire connection on the switch and connect to the gold /bottom of switch 2 than do the same for switch 3 connecting the wire from switch 2 so u will have power feeding all 3 switches-- now connect the black lines for the lights to the other side of each switch and ur done

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Recovery (code2) Archos 604wifi


OK, here is a really quick thing to solve your problem.
Basically you have to open up the device, and its that simple.
1. take out the battery
2. remove the two screws closest to the "kick out leg" at the back of the archos. *removing the battery shows the screws.
3.on the right hand side of the archos when looking from the back, you will see 4 screws. You need to undo the two screws that are closest to the back of the archos. NOT THE OTHERS NEARER THE FRONT - as they are for the screen!!!
4. remove the now loosened pannel. (you may need to use something flat to wedge it off).
5. take out the hardrive. (it should bend over from the top, it is connected by a strip)
6. the problem for me was that the strip wasnt connected to the archos properly, e.g. it was loose)
It can even come out if it is too loose.
7. don't worry if it does come out, but that is why its not working.
8. the strip should fit under the little piece of plastic on the motherboard. (like two thin rectangles, one is black and it has a white one above it)
9. the black thin rectangle can come off, try to do this, but its delicate so be careful.
10. once off you can re-align the strip/ribbon on the end of the hardrive under the whhite rectangle and also under where the black rectangle previously was.
11. once aligned place th black triangle back on top of the strip in line with the white rectangle. the black rectangle should push and click into place, securing the strip in place.
12. once this is done the deivce should be fixed.
13. carefully put everything back in place and re-insert all of the screws (be careful with the small screws)
14. press the reset button under the battery and then re-insert the battery.
15. turn on the deivce and see if it works.
16. finally if the deivce still doesn't work then you either didn't line up the strip properly. Or something else is wrong e.g. complete hardrive faliure, or another connection problem.

I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU, IT TOOK ME 4 TRIES UNTIL IT WORKED. BUT THANK GOD IT DID.
MAKE SURE YOU BACK UP YOUR DEVICE FILES (ALL OF THEM INCLUDING SYSTEM FILES) ONTO YOUR COMPUTER.
good luck, and I will not be held responsible for anything you do, it is intirely up to you.
p.s. worst case senario is that you have to buy an Archos 5. Lucky bum, they are amazing.

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I took a plate off the bottom of my HP 6210 to clean up as much ink that had spilled as possible. I now have a 3 pieces to put back. The gray plate, a black "L" shaped piece and a retangular white sponge...


The white rectangle goes under the cleaning station, which is the black plastic box on the right as you look from the front of the printer. It also helps for ink overflow.

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1 Answer

Palm Z22 touchscreen does not work even after a hard reset


I had the same problem and tried several of the solutions here, from cleaning around the edges of the screen, to soft and hard resets. They worked for a time, but eventually, the pointer didn't register at all. Before you throw out your unit, look on Ebay for the replacement digitizer. There are or were many when I looked, ranging from about $8 to considerably more. None of the low cost ones came with instructions, but did come with tools. Higher priced offerings were for having them replace the digitizer for you. I ordered the low priced one and figured I could figure it out. The tools they send are two tiny screw drivers with special tips and a small plastic device to pry the sections apart. If you want to do it yourself, I will be happy to explain what I did. Remember to be really gentle when you do every step. First use the pry tool on the place where the cord plugs in to connect the device to the usb slot on your computer. It is tight, but gently pry out the small black rectangle. You will see two tiny screws inside. Remove those, carefully with one of the screwdrivers that come with the digitizer and set them someplace save. These two screws or bolts have nuts, that you can't really see until the next step. Watch for them if they fall out. The next step is to use the pry tool around the edges of the white plastic face of the Z22 and separate it from the back. I would lay it on the back while you do this. There is a small u-shaped piece that is part of the reset button and it fits on a peg on the back part of the device. Carefully ease the front and back apart. There are 4 small screws that still need to be removed. Save them to replace when done. Remove the innards of the device, but Don't totally separate the sections. There are foil connectors that attach the parts and they need to be intact. Gently ease the digitizer from the white plastic face. It will have another white plastic box on it's back side. Use the pry device to separate the glass digitizer from that white box. You will see there is a gold striped foil connector on your new digitizer, about midway up the side of the device. Find the one that is connected to the old digitizer and ease it out of the slot. Remove the old digitizer. Slide the new connector into the slot. Position the new glass digitizer correctly over the white plastic box and place the innards face down into the white face of the Z22. Replace the 4 screws. Gently close the case, laying the front onto the back, so you don't displace the reset button part. Snap together and replace the two tiny screws into the section near the power cord connector. (Hopefully you didn't drop the little nuts out, during the process. If you did, you may have to back track until you can see the small white boxes that they slip into, in that location. Email me if you have problems with this. It sounds a lot worse than it was. When I finished, I was really disappointed, because it didn't turn on, the whole screen was black, which was worse than when I started. But, after I plugged it in, and let it charge about 3 hours, it worked perfectly! I am so excited! You can do this if you are patient and gentle.

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1 Answer

A rectangle with sides parallel to the x-y axes and its left-lower corner at (0, 0) is being painted. The rectangle may be thought of as a flat-screen display with almost infinite resolution; initially the...


It would be "cheating" for anybody to do your "homework" from your computer-mathematics class, unless you submit your answer, saying that an EXPERT on FIXYA did all the work on your behalf.

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1 Answer

Touch Screen Fails To Sense Stylus


I had the same problem and tried several of the solutions here, from cleaning around the edges of the screen, to soft and hard resets. They worked for a time, but eventually, the pointer didn't register at all. Before you throw out your unit, look on Ebay for the replacement digitizer. There are or were many when I looked, ranging from about $8 to considerably more. None of the low cost ones came with instructions, but did come with tools. Higher priced offerings were for having them replace the digitizer for you. I ordered the low priced one and figured I could figure it out. The tools they send are two tiny screw drivers with special tips and a small plastic device to pry the sections apart. If you want to do it yourself, I will be happy to explain what I did. Remember to be really gentle when you do every step. First use the pry tool on the place where the cord plugs in to connect the device to the usb slot on your computer. It is tight, but gently pry out the small black rectangle. You will see two tiny screws inside. Remove those, carefully with one of the screwdrivers that come with the digitizer and set them someplace save. These two screws or bolts have nuts, that you can't really see until the next step. Watch for them if they fall out. The next step is to use the pry tool around the edges of the white plastic face of the Z22 and separate it from the back. I would lay it on the back while you do this. There is a small u-shaped piece that is part of the reset button and it fits on a peg on the back part of the device. Carefully ease the front and back apart. There are 4 small screws that still need to be removed. Save them to replace when done. Remove the innards of the device, but Don't totally separate the sections. There are foil connectors that attach the parts and they need to be intact. Gently ease the digitizer from the white plastic face. It will have another white plastic box on it's back side. Use the pry device to separate the glass digitizer from that white box. You will see there is a gold striped foil connector on your new digitizer, about midway up the side of the device. Find the one that is connected to the old digitizer and ease it out of the slot. Remove the old digitizer. Slide the new connector into the slot. Position the new glass digitizer correctly over the white plastic box and place the innards face down into the white face of the Z22. Replace the 4 screws. Gently close the case, laying the front onto the back, so you don't displace the reset button part. Snap together and replace the two tiny screws into the section near the power cord connector. (Hopefully you didn't drop the little nuts out, during the process. If you did, you may have to back track until you can see the small white boxes that they slip into, in that location. Email me if you have problems with this. It sounds a lot worse than it was. When I finished, I was really disappointed, because it didn't turn on, the whole screen was black, which was worse than when I started. But, after I plugged it in, and let it charge about 3 hours, it worked perfectly! I am so excited! You can do this if you are patient and gentle.

If you partially opened the case, you may have had the restart button piece shift out of place. You need the tools that come with the new digitizer, or a very delicate tool to pry out the rectangle,around the power cord connection, and remove two tiny screws, before you can separate the front and back. The tool they send to do that is sort of soft plastic, tiny spatula shaped piece which can squeeze into the grooves and gently separate that piece and the front from the back.

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