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Raise the rear wheel safely (with a motorcycle stand of some type) Loosen the rear axel (27mm wrench works good) Adjust the tensioner bolts at the back of the swing arm(both sides) evenly until the belt is within specs. Turn the wheel forward and check to make sure the belt is spaced evenly between the sides of the rear pulley. Tighten the axel. Double check the belt tension with the wheel back on the ground.
Possible causes: - Tires: If the tire(s) on either of the pulleys are worn, torn or have chuncks out of them, the blade can slip off. - Pulley(s) out of line: If either or both pulleys are out of alignment the blade will work it's way off. This could be caused by a worn pulley hub; a worn or broken pulley axel; or worn, broken or frozen bearings where the axels turn. On the drive pulley this could include the bearings on the drive shaft or the boss where the bearings fit into. - Blade: If there are any kinks or slight bends in the metal they could cause the blade to work off the pulley.
Possible causes: - Tires: If the tire(s) on the front or rear pulleys are worn, torn or have chuncks out of them, the blade can slip off. - Pulley(s) out of line: If either or both pulleys are out of alignment the blade will work it's way off. This could be caused by a worn pulley hub; a worn or broken pulley axel; or worn, broken or frozen bearings where the axels turn. On the drive pulley this could include the bearings on the drive shaft or the boss where the bearings fit into. - Blade: If there are any kinks or slight bends in the metal they could cause the blade to work off the pulley.
May be a worn belt or a pulley whose bearings are shot. Remove belt and check it for the ribs having broken down or missing parts of belt. While it's off, check all your pulleys for turning freely, alternator, tensioner pulley, a/c compressor, PS pulley...If you hear any noise when spinning them, or feel any movement like wobbling, or if they have a rough feel, then its likely that pulley needs replacing.
The plastic piece maybe the pulley on the end of the motor. Check the motor for a drive pulley it will have grooves in it for the belt. Since you are in there check the idler pulley for ware, the drum support pulleys in the back for ware, and see if you have any glide pads for the front of the drum. When you put it together put the belt around the drum before you put it in. Before you secure the front of the drum put the idler pulley on the belt. As long as you do not end up with extra screws you got it back together right.
1) Remove hard bags.
2) Use a marker to mark a position of the belt tension cams on the axel. This will help you put the proper amount of tension on the drive belt when you put it all back together. The left cam is welded to the left side of the axel. The cams are used to tighten or loosen the belt tension. You will see what I'm talking about when you get there and look at it.
3) Remove the two bolts from the rear of the left side bag support. Then loosen the front bolt of the bag support. (Remove the left fusebox cover to access the front support bolt.) Lower the bag support. This is necessary to slide the rear axel out.
4) Remove the two banjo bolts from the rear brake bracket and slide off from the rotor. Support brake with something so you don't damage the brake line.
5) Look carefully at the spacers on the axel and note, along with the order.
6) Loosen the cone nut of the axel on the right side of the bike, but don't remove.
7) Use a bike jack to raise the bike so that the rear wheel is barely touching the ground. Just enough that you can turn the rear wheel and feel the treads rubbing the ground.
8) Remove the cone nut from the right side, along with the right alignment cam washer
9) Genlty tap the end of the axel from the right side of the bike until it slides out from the wheel hub.
10) Pull the axel from the left side, take note of IDS washer and spacer order and position.
11) Slowly jack up the bike until you can pull off the belt pulley...that also contains the IDS (Isolated Drive Sprocket) NOTE; Check that damned IDS bearing in the drive pulley. I have gone through 4 of those crappy bearings...usually every 10k. If the seal is broken on the IDS bearing, get it replaced. This is the wicked gremlin of the 08 FLHX. The rear IDS pulley should just pull away from the hub at this point.
12) Jack the bike up until you can roll the tire, or get it out from underneath the bike. Did I tell you to strap the bike so it doesn't fall over? Just in case ya'know.
It all goes on in the reverse order. I never mount the tire on the rim...I have someone else to that and the balancing. Make sure none of the rubber isolators in the drive pulley have fallen out. Once you have the axel back in, tighten the cone nut enough so that you can tighten the drive belt by turning the cams from the left side of the axel. Use the paint marks you put on the right side of the axel cam to get the drive belt tension where it was at the time you started this whole process. Tighten hand tight, then loosen one full turn, then tighten the cone nut on the right side to torque specs. (Damn, I can't remember what that was. I think 90 - 110 foot pounds but I can't say that with certainty. I think the brake bolts are 35 to 45 foot pounds.)
Hope the helps. You can get cheap PDF shop manuals online if you look hard enough. The best investment I have made was a Harley Shop Manual for the bike...but they ain't cheap.
I don't have this kind of mower. But I was faced with the same problem recently. I got my belt back on by taking a large wrench and affixing it to the bolt head holding the pulley which you want to slip the belt on. Hold the belt firmly against the pulley and turn the wrench and the belt in the grove will walk around the pulley until it slips in place.