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Pins on case 580 quick coupler will not retract, they move a bit then stop.

Switch is good checked that.

Posted by Anonymous on

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Have small stopers each side

Posted on May 03, 2015

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: Changed the coupler but now Kenmore Elite doesn't stop filling up

it could be airlocked or blocked good luck.

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

oldTech2332
  • 2341 Answers

SOURCE: just replace motor coupler a few days ago...now

since the coupler is new and lid switch was jumped i would be looking at the connections on the motor plug that you disconnected to replace coupler depending on your exact model there is the main plug the 2 wires on the capicator and a smaller plug. BUT FIRST recheck lid switch what must be jumped out is the connection leading up to control panel and NOT the part in the cabinet
to me a appliance tech w/30 years experience it sounds like a bad lid switch!

Posted on Aug 10, 2011

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The washing machine wont agitate?


There are many possibilities for this problem. you will have to check all of them one by one mentioned as follows :--- There is a lid switch in the washer. The washing machine will not start spinning till the lid is closed. In some cases it has been seen that lid is closed still the washer does not agitating. in this cases the lid switch has to be checked. if the lid switch is faulty then the closed lid will not be detected by the washing machine, and it will not start agitate cycle.
But if the lid switch is ok checked, then other possibility can be fault in the motor coupler. Many a times the motor coupler is broken .The motor coupler is plastic/rubber kind of material fitted on the shaft of the motor .Check properly if the motor coupler seems cracked, worn out loose or broken then it needs to be replaced to solve the issue. But if motor coupler is checked ok then other possibility for this problem is the spinning belt. If the belt is worn out or loose or cracked/broken then it needs to replace.
Only for GE washers. In GE model washers, there is a clutch used for proper spin speed. If the clutch wears out, it has to be replaced.But if clutch/belt seems ok. then other possibility is driver motor itself .check if the motor has power if not then the motor is got internally burnt .in this case the drive motor needs to be replaced. but if drive motor is functioning properly then other possibility to be checked for this fault is the transmission shifter and pulley. If the transmission shifter becomes defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. Replacing the shifter is bit time consuming and tough job. you will require proper tools to deal with this problem.. But if the transmission shifter is properly working then other possibility to check is the Agitator itself.If the transmission is moving properly but the Agitator is getting stuck and not moving properly then its the fault in the agitator assembly that has to be replaced to solve the problem. This will help.Thanks.

on Mar 18, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a case 580 backhoe and when you push the clutch down and try to put it in forward or reverse it grinds and wont go in gear


Just a guess from an old shadetree mechanic: pedal pressure is wrong-too weak, or the clutch pressure plate bolted to the flywheel is bad. They will wear on the fingers and the plate's springs can wear. There should be a Case repair facility at a dealership, anywhere close? A mechanic familiar with your case 580, they often don't mind talking a bit over the phone about a mechanical problem. I meant by pedal pressure-I don't know if the rig is hydraulic clutch or mechanical linkage or cable operated, but check if the clutch pedal can be adjusted. On a hydraulic clutch with a clutch master cylinder and an associated slave cylinder, there is no adjustment. You just have to keep the reservoir full of dot-3, or dot-4 brake fluid. So that's my guess, something wrong with the pedal, or worse, something wrong with the pressure plate. You definitely need a second opinion. Good luck.

Jan 25, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Just replace motor coupler a few days ago...now washer filled up, washed & got to rinse cycle then stopped. Turned dial back to wash cycle, won't work. Checked lid switch, not broken. Jumped outer...


since the coupler is new and lid switch was jumped i would be looking at the connections on the motor plug that you disconnected to replace coupler depending on your exact model there is the main plug the 2 wires on the capicator and a smaller plug. BUT FIRST recheck lid switch what must be jumped out is the connection leading up to control panel and NOT the part in the cabinet
to me a appliance tech w/30 years experience it sounds like a bad lid switch!

Aug 10, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

WASHER STOPPED WORKING YESTERDAY. WAS IN SPIN


If this is a top load model, the back panel does not come off. The whole case comes off. But your problem is either the motor coupler has broken (inexpensive fix), or the transmission gave out. More than likely it is the motor coupler. Disconnect the hoses, unplug it, and pull it away from the wall about 3 feet. To remove the case, you take 2 screws out of the control panel, slide it forward about a half inch or so and it will flip up on hinges. There are 2 clips to remove holding the case on. Unplug the lid switch, then the clips, and the case will lean forward and come right off. flip the control panel back in place and lean the machine against the wall, or lay it on it's back (better). 2 clips hold the pump on, remove them, then unplug the motor wires, then remove the 2 screws holding the motor clips on. Then remove the clips. The motor will all but fall off. You will see the motor coupler. More than likely the pins have broken, or one half has split in 2 pieces.

Dec 31, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

F error code


Check the contacts on the camera and the lense.
This error means there is a communication error with the lense or it thinks that the lense is stopped down. Since its a G lense it cant be stopped down manually its gotta be some sort of communication issue. The electrical contact pins are springy and stick so they don't fully extend sometimes. This will improve with wear as the plastic channel is a bit too small and is holding the pin in the retracted position - repeated use will get the channel to get larger. I fixed mine by working the pins in and out manually until they all reliably sprung into position. Removing the lens a few times and fiddling with the contacts seems to have solved the problem..You can check by moving the lens when it is mounted to see if you can replicate the error.

Dec 21, 2009 | Nikon D90 Digital Camera with 18-105mm...

2 Answers

O2 Dodge Dakota Brake lights wont work but bulbs r good.


If the bulbs are good I would suspect the Brake light switch.

Brake Light Switch: Testing and Inspection
The brake lamp switch can be tested with an ohmmeter. The ohmmeter is used to check continuity between the pin terminals.
Switch Circuit Identification
- Terminals 1 and 2: brake lamp circuit
- Terminals 3 and 4: RWAL/ABS module and Powertrain Control Module (PCM) circuit
- Terminals 5 and 6: speed control circuit
Switch Continuity Test
NOTE: Disconnect switch harness before testing switch continuity.
With switch plunger extended, attach test leads to pins 1 and 2. Replace switch if meter indicates no continuity.
With switch plunger retracted, attach test leads to pins 3 and 4. Replace switch if meter indicates no continuity.
With switch plunger retracted, attach test leads to pins 5 and 6. Replace switch if meter indicates no continuity.


27c4c52.jpg

Sep 11, 2009 | 2002 Dodge Dakota Club Cab

3 Answers

Ds lite


WHEN I PUT MY DS ON IT GOES OFF

Jun 14, 2008 | Nintendo DS Lite Console

1 Answer

Broken camera


Hiya

Few quick things.

Digital camera need to initialize when you switch them on. Rather like booting a computer, they need to get themselves ready for work....

It sounds like yours is stuck in a position where it has gone beyond the bit where it is told to get ready, so it sits there waiting to be told :-(
When cameras get a thump, sometimes the mechanism can be knocked into a position that it was never designed for.

Firstly, look at the lense. Check that it has not extended slightly further than it should have. If it has the small servo motor that drives it may not engage correctly. With the power on, you could try gently applying pressure to the front of the lense (not the glass), to see if you can persuade it to retract. If it does retract, it will probably work.

Next, the lense may have been knocked slightly out of line, use the same process as above.

Have a look down the lense from the front of the camera. Can you see the shutter? This is black in colour and should closed. If it is half open use a cotton bud to move it slightly and see if that is enough to get things moving again.

Finally, you could try removing the battery/batteries, leave them out of the camera for two minutes then reinsert them and try again.

Good luck..

Feb 14, 2008 | Cameras

2 Answers

Lens wont retract, Camera unresponsive


I like Google. In an attempt to find a solution for this same problem, I stumbled upon this site. Seeing as this was posted months ago, I'm not sure if this will be checked again, but it can't hurt to have a suggestion, just in case it turns out to be right. Without opening the camera for sure, what I can tell is that the lens extends and retracts by rotating. Essentially, the lens is a series of threaded cylinders that, when turned one way, move outwards, and when turned the other way, move inwards. What you're describing, especially the bit about the clicking, sounds like this threaded bit of the lens casing has come either off-track, or snapped, or something to that effect. I would suggest (if you're feeling secure in your abilities) taking the device apart and getting a good idea of exactly how the lens retracts and extends. Once you've determined this, you may simply be able to reason what would stop it from moving. I can almost guarantee that if the lens is designed to extend upon power-up and retract upon power-down, then an attempted power-up would be aborted if the lens can not extend. I might be losing the focus a tiny bit, but the idea is that essentially the lens will not screw in or out because it's either jammed, or cracked, or just off its track somehow. This can easily happen if the camera is dropped or jostled just hard enough. So my solution, if you can consider it that, is to disassemble the camera to see whether the threads are just off-track, or if there's some sort of mechanical breakage inside. If it's the former, then it may be as simple as realigning the threads. If it's the latter, the cheapest solution would be to find another of the same camera on eBay that is broken in a different fashion, then use the part(s) that you need to get yours working again. I hope this helps someone!

Nov 22, 2006 | Casio Exilim EX-Z57 Digital Camera

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