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I don't like the idea of someone just recharging a system without knowing what's truely wrong.
At this point, based on what you've said, I strongly recommend you call G.E. factory service or a dealer with a qualified service tech in the G.E. line.
G.E. has made the use of a lot of solid state boards, which may well be some if not all of your problems. It will be pricey, but a refrigerator is not a toy. I would advise the tech as well, that you had a recharge performed, and let him follow up on it.
Sounds like whoever worked on your machine isn't well qualified to service it. Newer G.E.'s can be a real bear. Sorry....
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It is impossible to provide the answer you wanted without knowing the manufacturer AND model number of the refrigerator. I will try to provide generic directions.
You have just learned the hard way that it is not a good idea to yank apart a connector by pulling on the wires (not even a power cord; lots of people break the wires by doing that). Many appliance connectors have latches (plastic tabs on the sides) that must be squeezed to unhook them while pulling on the connector shell.
Most likely, you won't be able to just push the wires back into the connector because you have pulled them out of the crimped-on terminals inside the connector. You would have to remove the terminals from the connector shell, and you'll probably have to buy new terminals from an electronic supplier, plus a crimp tool. The terminals usually have small retainer tabs on the end opposite the wires; you'll need a tool to push those tabs inside so they'll go past the edge in the connector pocket and let you push the terminal out the wire end of the connector. In a pinch, you can use a jeweler's screwdriver to do this, but it's much easier with a cylinder-shaped tool made for the job. If you have a great amount of patience and manual dexterity, you may be able to uncrimp the terminal and reuse it, but it's easier to go with new terminals. See the attached photo.
The alternatives are to get a new wiring harness (very expensive!) or try to find the same model at your local appliance recycler and get the harness from that. One possible fix is to cut the connector with as much wire as possible out of the junk refrigerator, then splice it in place of the damaged connector in your refrigerator. If you do this, do it right. Twist and tape is not a safe or acceptable wiring method. If you know how to solder, you can solder the wires end-to-end and use heat shrink tubing to insulate the connections. Otherwise, use crimp-on in-line connectors rated for your AC line voltage, preferably the self-sealing type. Don't make all of the connections the same distance from the connector; this will make a big bundle that will be hard to put in place when you put the refrigerator back together. Rather, make each splice a different distance from the connector, and if possible, have at least 6" of wire between the connector and the splice (that's why I said get as much wire as possible from the replacement harness). If one or more of the wires on the replacement piece has a terminal going somewhere else close by, don't cut it, just use the terminal as it was intended.
Now for the question as to which wire goes where, assuming you don't find a matching replacement harness: If you're lucky, the same color of wire is used on the other side of the connector in the ice maker unit, so you just have to match them. However, you can't count on this; if you have any doubt, get a wiring diagram and make sure you match the wire with its assigned function. Some manufacturers provide a wiring diagram with the appliance. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and look in the back. or in the compressor compartment in the bottom for a sheet of paper, envelope or sticker with the service information. (Even if you don't find anything, at least you have an opportunity to clean things up and so improve the efficiency of your refrigerator - but be careful not to bend the fins on the compressor radiator if your refrigerator uses fins.)
If you find the wiring diagram, you may be able to match the wires to the correct pockets on the connector. You may have to open the ice maker unit to verify the connections are going to the right place (e. g., water inlet solenoid, sensors, etc.)
This photo illustrates a connector set similar to those often used in appliances. Note the latch on one of the connector shells. I have marked a lock tab on one of the wire terminals. You can see each terminal has two sets of crimp tabs. The shorter set crimps around the stripped end of the wire, and the longer set crimps around the end of the insulation. When the terminal is crimped on, all you have to is slide it into the correct pocket on the connector until the lock tabs pop out and retain the wire - you should feel the terminal hitting a stop or hear the tabs snap into place. A gentle tug on the wire will verify that it is seated. (Note: the crimp tool is different from those used for insulated splices. One of the jaws is cut in a rounded "m" shape to push the crimp tabs inward towards each other; the tool for insulated splices has a half-moon notch in both jaws.)
The automatically suggestted E13 guidance that the system posts referring to Bosch machines is irrelevant I'm afraid. On a Hoover, the message means "Faulty module connections. Check all connections between modules and associated wiring." The chances are that you have a partially dislodged connector on the main board, or on the connector that goes to the motor
It not to hard to do, if you have some mechanical ability and some basic household tools. First unplug the fridge. Then remove the contents of freezer so you can remove the back panel in the freezer compartment. You may need to remove the shelving in order to get to the back panel. Once the panel is removed, you should be able to see the evap motor. It usually mounted with a couple of bolts or screws. Loosen the bolts, then remove the wires. The wires may be attached with wire nuts or they may have some crimp connectors. Either remove the wire nuts or the connectors and reattach wires to the new motor. If your new motor does not come with a fan, simply pull the old fan off and press it onto the shaft of the new motor. Install the new motor with the bolts or screws. Plug in the fridge, if you have attached the wires correctly the fan should spin, otherwise unplug and check your work. Replace the panel and the food and plug in the fridge. Hope this helps you.