Re: the oil that is in it, is poulan, chain, and bar 30...
I usually just drain the oil. Bar and chain oil is thinner than normal SAE 30. If the engine is not seized, then I would suggest using a 15W-40 oil if you are in a warm climate area. These air cooled engines get hot quickly and that will cause the oil to thin more quickly and become less effective. Using the 15W-40 may cause hard starting at lower temperatures. Depending on how long the engine ran with that oil has a lot to do with the "reliability" of the engine. If it was smoking the last time you used it, then yes the engine needs to be reworked (new rings and valve seals in particular). If it wasn't smoking, I would run it with the heavier oil until it just won't turn anymore. These little engines are pretty tough. If the mower is less than 2 years old, then I would put the manufacturer's recommended oil back in it. Don't be too concerned if all of the old oil doesn't drain. Just change it again around mid-season.
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The 240 origanaly had a .325 pitch chain and ran a 15" bar, it is not avisable to go any longer as the power loss will be great, the later machine had a 3/8 chain and ran a 14" bar, the loading on this smaller chain chain would allow you to fit the 16" bar, i think this will be the longest bar you can fit due to power and chain oil pump capacity
Turn the chain brake off, then remove the bar and chain. Clean the side of the engine where the bar fits to, start the engine and observe whether the small oil port on the engine oozes out oil. If nothing and the oil tank is filled, put the saw back together and take it back to the seller for warranty repair of the oil pumping system or a fresh saw in exchange. Hope this helps!
There are two holes in the end of the Bar, the oil comes though them from behind the bar and goes into the channel (oil passages) that goes around the bar, clean the small oil passages in the drive end of the bar that run
out to the chain groove on each edge from the large holes.
My chain saw is doing the same thing. I have only used it about 5 hours since owning it, and it worked great last time I used it (year ago). I think maybe my pump is not working. Did you ever get your's working ? I was told to take the bar off and Start the engine and observe whether oil oozes out of the side port. If no oil
comes out, then the oil pump, oil line, or oil tank filter may require
Release the chain brake, then remove the bar and chain. Clean the engine where the bar fits up to, start the engine, and look for oil oozing out of a small port in the engine side. Make sure to replace the thin oil with regular bar oil. If the oil does ooze out, then clean the small oil passages in the drive end of the bar--they run from the large holes out to the chain groove on each edge of the bar. If no oil oozes out, check the oil filter inside the tank. If ok, then the oil pump requires service--it is located just behind the clutch drum on the crankshaft. The clutch has left-hand threads and can be difficult to remove--you might wish to farm the oil pump repair out to a service shop that has the proper tools and procedures. Hope this helps!
The item on the end of the crankshaft is the clutch (inner part) and also part of the chain brake (the outer part of the clutch drum). There should be an oil-volume adjustment screw located under the case near where the chain returns to the engine. Turn it CCW somewhat to increase oil volume. Be sure to clean the small oil passages that run from the large holes in the drive end of the bar out to the chain groove on each bar edge. The correct way to set it is have everything assembled, start the engine and run at speed for a few moments with the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Hope this helps!
It is normal for a chain to loosen under usage, especially if the chain is dull or mis-sharpened so that the chain must be overly forced into the cut or there is insufficient oil being fed to the chain from the auto-oiler. Remove the bar and chain--start the engine and look for oil oozing out of the side port in the engine where the bar fits to. If there are thin metal plates on either side of the bar, make sure that the one with a long slot fits to the engine side. This slot allows oil to enter the bar oiling holes no matter where the bar is adjusted. Be sure to clean the two small oil passages in the drive end of the bar that run from the large holes out to the chain groove on either edge. Clean the chain groove as well as the bar and engine side. Reassemble the bar and chain making sure the adjustment 'tang' drops into one of the large bar holes. Install the cover, but leave the mounting nuts/bolts finger tight. Turn the chain adjustment screw CW until the chain just pulls up to the lower bar edge, then tighten the cover mounts. Make sure the chain can be turned by hand and is fully up to the bar with light tension. Chain filing is fairly exacting and must be consistent from tooth to tooth. If a tooth edge cuts your finger, it is considered to be sharp. (not a suggested test by the way) Look for no light reflecting from the filed edge as a good test. Once everything is ready, start the engine and run the bar tip near some cardboard--a few moments running should produce a thin line of oil. If it seems slow to cut, check the chain's sharpness. Don't worry about adjusting the chain to some mark as the chain will grow length with use. It is not necessary to remove the bar and chain when adjustment is required, just loosen the bar mounting fasteners to finger tight. Hope this helps!
Sounds like the chain oiling system is plugged or has failed. Remove the bar and chain--start the engine and see if oil oozes from the engine side port where the bar fits up to. If ok, then check the small oil passages that run from the large holes in the drive end of the bar out to the chain groove on each edge--they commonly get plugged with sawdust and dirt. If there are small thin plates located on either side of the bar at the drive end, make sure that the one with a slot which couples oil feed from the engine to the bar is installed next to the engine. When adjusting the chain, make sure you can turn it by hand when everything is tightened. Be sure to oil the chain manually before running it the first time. Run the engine at speed and hold the bar tip near some cardboard for a couple of moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Hope this helps!
Remove the bar and chain, then clean the side of the engine case where the bar fits to. Start the engine--oil should ooze out of a small port in the engine case. If ok, clean the bar and cover, then clean the two small oil channels in the drive end of the bar which allow oil to flow out into the chain groove on each side (only one is active depending on which side of the bar is 'down'). If no oil came out of the engine port, then you need to investigate the oil pump (behind the clutch), oil lines, and oil filter in the tank. The oil pump, in particular, has plastic gears that can become damaged. When oil appears at the port, assemble the bar and chain. Adjust the chain (cover fastemers finger tight) so that the chain just pulls up to the lower bar edge, but not so tight that the chain can't be pulled by hand. Make sure the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run and are properly sharpened. Tighten the cover fasteners firmly and recheck tension. If ok, run the saw at speed for several moments with the tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Hope this helps!
The bar and chain are running without oil. Take the side cover off where the chain is driven from and remove the bar and chain. Use compressed air to blow all debris from the area. Start the engine and watch for oil coming out of a small port near the clutch assembly. If oil passes (good!), then clean ( at the drive end of the bar) the two smaller holes and their passages into the track which the chain runs in. They are likely to be filled with sawdust and other debris. Clean the entire chain track around the whole bar. Use engine oil in the two small holes at the bar tip to lubricate the sprocket bearing. Back off the chain adjuster screw somewhat and reassemble everything--put the bar on first and then work the chain on, then the side cover--work the bar fore and aft to allow the small tang of the adjuster to drop into it's hole at the bar rear. Make sure that the cutting side of the teeth are pointing toward the engine on the bar bottom. With the cover on and mounting nuts slightly loose, adjust the chain tightness so that the chain doesn't droop away from the bar bottom, but still allows the chain to be moved by hand--remember to lightly oil the chain first with engine oil. Tighten the bar mounting nut(s) and recheck the chain for droop. Make sure that you have bar oil in the tank, then start the engine and hold the bar tip near a piece of paper or cardboard. After running for a little while, the tip should throw off a very thin line of oil. Next, if you have a vise, put the bar center into the vise so that the chain is free to turn. At this point you need to file each tooth to sharpness at 30 degrees from perpendicular to the bar and 10 degrees below chain horizontal. Make sure you use the correct size file for your chain. Work your way through one side, then work the other side--be consistent with cutting angles during filing as uneven filing will result in the chain trying to cut at unintended angles. If no oil came out of the engine when running the bar-off test, make sure there is ample oil in the tank, then you have either a plugged inlet filter in the tank, tubing kink/breakage, or a defective oil pump. You must be sure that oil is being pumped from the chain drive area before putting things together. Hope this helps!
when you put the chain on new did you adjust the tension on the chain.most new chains need to be ran a few minutes to heat them up a little.then you need to readjust chian so it doesn't sag out of the bottem of the bar,also when you adjust the chain you need to push the tip of the bar down so the bar is in the up possition.if you don't the bar will work it's way up and loosen the chain.