Question about GE Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Try unplugging the oven from the electrical power. May release the lock, which is held in place by a tiny micro switch. If not and while the electric is still off or the oven is unplugged, use a bright light flashlight to look through the slot where the lock is in the oven, not in the door.
You may be able to use a thin blade screwdriver to move the lock to the release position. Check the angle of the lever. A slightly bent lever handle also can cause this type of condition.
If all else fails, remove the access panel on the front of the oven to access the locking device and release it. May have to disconnect the wires to the lock which will allow door to function but not during any self cleaning modes.
Fault Code Interpretation Components To Check
F-1 Communication error between touch pad and ERC (clock)
Replace the touch pad or clock.
F-2 Oven temperature sensed by electronic control Replace the clock/relay board
F-3 Open oven sensor or harness. Replace the oven sensor
F-4 Shorted oven sensor or harness Replace the oven sensor
F-5 Power to element relay disabled in cook mode Replace the clock/relay board
F-7 Shorted touch pad key sensed for 32 secs. Replace the touch pad/control panel
F-8 Shorted meat probe Replace the probe jack.
F-9 Door lock safety circuit on ERC sensed Replace the door latch assembly
F-C or F-0 Communication error between boards Replace the relay board
Maytag-Maycop-Magic Chef-Jennair-Admiral: Oven Fault Codes:
F0 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F1 Defective Touch Pad or Membrane Replace Touch Pad or Membrane
F2 Oven over heat defective Relay Board or (if present) or defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Hardware, safety circuits disagree Replace Clock
F6 Missing AC (power) signal Check for proper voltage (plug, breaker, etc.)
F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F8 A/D Warning Replace Clock
F9 Door Lock Warning Check door lock circuit or Replace Clock
Posted on Mar 10, 2008
try pushing cook and hold button once until lock comes on, then push cook and hold button again. The lock should be removed.
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
Sounds like you are only getting 120 volts instead of 240 volts. Either a house electical problem or wiring in range. First go to your breaker and turn it off and on three times and give it a little extra push each time you flip it. ( You can actually flip a breaker off and on without resetting a blown breaker if you doni't push it all the way off and all the way on. If the breaker throws itself off do not reset it. You have an elecrical short in your house or range. If resetting the breaker does not work then you need to test for 240 volts coming into the range. We don't recommend you do any electical testing unless you know what you are doing with electicity. If you have 240 volts going to the range then unplug your range and remove the backing panel off the back of the range. Look for burned wiring or terminal blocks. If there is nothing obvious then you need to know how to read a wiring schematic and use a electical tester to go any farther. Let me know if this helps. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
Posted on Dec 15, 2009
I recently had a problem with my gas oven, where I could see the igniter glowing but the gas was not coming on, just like your problem. I found out that the igniter needs to draw a certain level of current to allow the gas valve to open. Although I could see mine glowing, it had broken down enough over time to where the current draw was no longer enough. And the igniter is the "weakest link" in the system.
Replace the igniter. It worked for me!
Posted on Jul 29, 2012
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