Question about Kenmore 22642 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

The piece that sits directly on the shaft with the metal gear,this shaft turns and kinda washes,but the washer plastic aperture won't twist it back and forth,is it need a new plastic piece?

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  • Creighton Perry
    Creighton Perry Apr 22, 2015

    Its the Agitator that I was referring to...What would cause it to not properly engage and twist the clothes anymore?

  • Creighton Perry
    Creighton Perry Apr 22, 2015

    Forget it, lol I found the Dogears are broken, all 4 of them lol....easy fix, thank God!

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 5,323 Answers

SOUNDS LIKE YOU MEAN THE CAM DOGS IN THE AGITATOR ( THE PLASTIC PC)

No agitation?

first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.


Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
.

If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? )
or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt .

Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.

Also check THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well. for worn broken teeth
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!






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Posted on May 08, 2015

3 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 714 Answers

SOURCE: My wahing machine tub bangs when spinning.

that would be your motor coupling and it will need to be replaced, you will need to remove your drain pump by removing the 2 clips that hold it on,then remove the plug going to your motor,this is all with the machine unplugged! then remove the 2 screws holding the clips which hold your motor on and your motor will come off, then you will have to use a screwdriver tu pry off the white plastic parts, replace them with the new ones making sure they are tight and all the way on ,then line up the post in the holes in the rubber part and reinstall the motor,clips and screws then drain pump clips ,motor plug,make sure your wires don't come off the capacitor, I'd stand unit up and plug in and test , if it breaks again your transmission could be locking up

Posted on Feb 16, 2010

maxinerebecc
  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore elite quiet pan 4 he4t plastic piece replacement

There can be a loose bearing between the drum and the outer wall of the machine but, there is definitely something loose. I know that this is not what you would like to hear but, the best advice anyone can give you is have your machine looked at by a specialist. Moreover, going to your washing machine retail store, should have the equipment you are looking for, or you can search for it online and compare prices.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be

damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Dec 12, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 700 series 110.26712693 washer top load will not agitate or spin but will drain. I took out the agitator and nothing stuck under there. I hear metal on metal grinding noise. Could there be...


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. This is the most likely and a common (cheap to fix) problem.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Oct 12, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore series 70 #11026732500 spin problem


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.26732500&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

I'm assuming that you mean that the washer won.t spin with a load but will without one.

Two possibilities:

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

As an aside, the long pole (agitator shaft) shouldn't turn if you hold it when the washer is in spin mode. Basically, the oil "friction" within the gearcase is turning the shaft when in spin mode and if you hold it, it shouldn't turn.

When the washer is in spin mode, the "drive tube" which turns the drum is driven by the clutch.

Also see the following for how these gearcases work and how the agitator shaft is released by the "agitate cams" when in spin mode.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf



May 27, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer hums when turned on will fill with water


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

This is the most likely problem.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to

put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Apr 09, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

We have a clicking noise when the washer runs. I found a triangle piece between the bottom of the tank and the gear box, which loose. No way to get at it and no way to tighten it. Any suggstion? Gil


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Mar 19, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a Kitchenaid washer 11 cycle about ten years old that will not spin any idals on how to repair


Could be a bad lid switch.
Could be a bad direct drive coupling.
Could be a bad timer.

Remove the 2 screws holding the control console to the top panel. They are on the left and right corners.Pull the console forward slightly and fold it to the rear of the machine. You will see a wiring plug in the top of the cabinet . Unplug this plug. Use a volt meter set for continuity and place the meter leads in the plug receptacle on the cabinet. One lead on the right hand pin,one lead on the left hand pin. With the lid closed it should read continuity. Open and close the lid while touching the meter leads to the pins,the meter should show contact while closed and no contact while open. If there is no contact,replace the lid switch.

If the lid switch is OK, remove the 2 metal brass clips holding the corners of the cabinet to the back panel.Pull the cabinet forward to remove it. UNPLUG THE WASHER. Get on the floor and remove the wires to the motor. Remove the clips holding the water pump to the front of the motor. Remove the 2 clips holding the motor to the transmission. Remove the motor. There will be a plastic piece on the motor shaft,a rubber gasket,then a plastic piece in the transmission shaft.The plastic pieces have 3 plastic pins on them. They may be broken off. The plastic pieces may also be stripped inside where they mount on the motor and transmission shaft. If these are defective buy a new direct drive coupling and install it. The front of the coupling should be flush with the motor shaft and transmission shaft when correctly installed.

If the direct drive coupling is OK. Replace all the parts and re-assemble the washer. PLUG IT IN. With the lid closed. Set the machine to the final spin cycle and turn it on.If you hear the motor running and no spin,open,then close the lid. If it spins then it is a bad timer.

Jan 01, 2010 | KitchenAid Washing Machines

1 Answer

At the end of the wash cycle, my Kenmore # 23822100 began making a horrible noise and would not agitate or drain. After pulling out all of the soaking clothes, I tried and it barely agated but still made...


First, see the Sears Parts Site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.23822100

These washers use a reversing motor for agitating (motor turns one way) and the drain / spin cycle (the motor turns the other way).

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


While you have the cabinet off, I'd also check the connection between the motor and pump and look for any blockage in the pump.

Dec 16, 2009 | Kenmore 23822 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Sounds like a screwdriver is caught up in the gears.


Assuming that this is a basic top loader, direct drive, neutral drain washer the first thing I'd look at is the motor coupler.

This is a three part device between the motor and transmission (1 plastic piece on the transmission shaft, 1 plastic piece on the motor shaft with a rubber coupler between them designed as a fail safe.

If the coupler is broken, that could be the cause of the noise and not engaging.

Beyond that, it could likely be either the plastic or metal gears in the transmission.

Here are a couple of places to check.

Sears parts site:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and a directory of sub-components will come up. Check the category for motor and pump for the coupler.

Whirlpool installation and maintenance manual. This appears to be a public domain PDF file with descriptions of how the washer works and transmission diagnostics.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Whirlpool parts list for a commercial washer. Basically the same as consumer models.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Since you usually try to fix things yourself, you have nothing to lose by trying to diagnose the problem and repairing it yourself.

We had a problem with major noise and no spinning on ours and by tearing the transmission apart and replacing an agitator cam assembly (plastic) and neutral drain assembly (also plastic) we spent just $30 (including new 80-90 weight oil) instead of $170 for a new transmission.



Sep 21, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore washing machine model 110 will not agitate.


Hi,
Older direct drive models depend on the lid switch for the spin/drain
only. So, if it is draining, you know it is not your lid switch, or
the motor for that matter. There is no belt on a direct drive machine.
The component that is in common with agitation and spin is the motor
coupler, which transfers energy from the motor to the gear case. Tilt
the washer back and look in the area between the motor and the
gear case, at the front of the machine, underneath. There will be a
plastic disk on the motor, a rubber spacer, and another plastic piece
on the gear case. More than likely, one or more of these 3 are broken.
You may see either plastic or rubber shavings on the ground. You can
press on the rubber spacer and if it can be depressed easily, that is a
good indication that trouble is present.

Replacing the components is easier when the cabinet is removed (you can
search on the internet how to do this), but from underneath, you
would...

1. Remove pump clips that hold it to motor, and swing out of the way.
2. Remove motor clips that hold it to gear case, and put it aside.
3. Remove and replace plastic coupler parts on motor and gear case,
correct placement is flush with respective shaft. You can use a long
1/2" socket and a hammer to assist. Place the socket on the plastic
piece and tap it into place.
4. Put rubber coupler piece onto gear case coupler piece, align motor
with that and start putting it all back together.

There actually is a heavy-duty coupler kit that is available, though
the regular duty kit is most common. A good parts counter will know
about this.

Thank you for contacting www.Fixya.com

Jul 26, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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