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Pump is leaking around the plastic plate on the suction side-possible seal problem?

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Call local pool service centers ask if the rebuild spa pumps, do the sell rebuild kits for that pump.

www.ask.com/mfg.name/make/model/authorized dealer and service center/
www.wikipedia.org/mfg.name/make/model/pump_recondition_unit/
/repair_shops_services

Posted on Apr 22, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Pool pump problem: Cavitation sound in spite of no blockages in suction lines. Replaced many parts and replumbed with no success.


me id make a temporary suction line that could be dropped right in the pool (half union,suction hose with brick tied on end) this would easy test the underground pipes/valves for any spider cracks (air inlets) observe the output using the ole pump if no improvement then sorry that ole pumps gotta go

frequently on old installs I find that winter weather wasn't so kind to the plastic pipes and they develop spider cracks(tiny ) this provides a path to suck air into line

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This is a air leak on your suction side between the skimmer and the pump. You will not see water in the yard on the suction side usually, only the return. It is usually just the fittings around your pump or the seal around the pump lid, check those first and make sure you do not have a loose clamp or a damaged or dry seal. If that is not it then call in your local service guy to determine where the leak is. They will most likely pressurize your suction line to find the leak. Hope that helps.
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Hello, I have a Calvinator A410 unit that I am working on it is a heat pump, I had a leak remove freon and vacummed for around 5 hours. Having a problem charging the unit as a thermo protect on the...


There should be a name plate with the model and serial # which will tell you what the factory charge is for the unit plus 15 to 25 feet of line set. If you weight in the charge you should be pretty close...... In AC mode you should run around 125# suction and about 265 head pressure with 70 degree ambient F. If you have the right charge in the heat pump and you are still running 25# suction pressure in the Air Condition mode then you have a restriction filter drier or TXV locking up..... Did you replace the filter drier when you fixed the leak was the leak on the suction side if so then you definitely need to change the filter drier.

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1 Answer

Pump gets air bound


There are many causes for air getting into the suction side of the pump. The easiest thing to check is the seal around the strainer basket. Make sure there is no dirt, grass, hair or other debris across any o-rings. After cleaning the o-ring, lube it with pool & spa lube. If air persists, check the connecting fittings on the suction side. Do you hear any wheezing when the pump is turned off? If so, there is a leak in the suction piping. If you are able to locate the fitting which causes the wheezing sound, you can bandaid the leak by putting a good amount of Silicone II clear sealant on the area (and allow to dry). If you are unable to locate a leak, then an air pressure test can be performed to see if the suction side is leaking. You may also have a problem with something stuck in the suction piping. This condition causes the pump to cavitate, which is like the pump spinning its wheels. When you starve the suction for flow, it will appear like air trapped in the strainer. You can try to blow air through the line to clear it, or a snake may do the job. This problem is very difficult to resolve.

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1 Answer

Spa jets are not at full output. I have a new


Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

Air in the system indicated suction leaks so you will not find 'leakage'. Instead you are looking for ways air can get in before or at the pump. That section of the plumbing is under a vacuum and a leak means air gets sucked in. Common areas are the pump seal and the pump strainer cover. Plumbing connections at the pump and then finally skimmers and other plumbing connected to the suction side of the system. Do you have a lot of air in the pump strainer basket area? If so, start with the gasket that seals the lid in that area. Is there any sign of water leaking under the pump? If so, replace the pump seal. If none of these cure your issue you may need a pressure test on the suction side of your plumbing to better identify where the leak is.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

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Water pump is located in the center of the left side. If you remove the plate you mentioned, you can probably see it. It is probably the source of the leak. The seals are prone to go bad in them.

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Most compressors with the problem that you are having suffer from leaking valves. As in a gasoline engine, leaking valves will lower efficiency. Valves in a compressor are in the form of reeds that seal against valve plate. Leaking reed valves or gaskets will increase the discharge air temperture. Inspect these parts with a magnifying lense. Look for evidense of wear or leaks. Also look for signs of air leaking from one cylinder to the other thru gaskets. Replace valve plate as necessary. Simple test, as your compressor is filling, check the intake for strong suction; as it neers the 92 psi mark suction will probably deminish if you have leaking valves. If suction remains strong at 92psi then you have a leak at the discharge side. Check with soapy water on all parts. Good luck

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1 Answer

Great hose suction, awful floor performance


Lose of suction usually means a clog either in the hose, dirt inlet by the brush roll and clogged filters. But a belt that has stretched to where it won't turn the brush roll under load will make it appear as no suction. If you have replaced the belt in a while, I would try that.

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