Question about Washing Machines
Posted by Anonymous on
WASHER WILL NOT START:
Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.
Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.
Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.
Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.
Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in
Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced
Lastly CONTROL BOARD
If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The F1 error code on this washer indicates a Primary Control Board failure.
It is likely that the machine control board will need to be replaced to correct this problem.
The part number for the machine control board is undetermineable because you have not provided me with the exact model # of your washer.
The procedure for replacing the machine control board is provided HERE
NOTE: Be sure to unplug the washer to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components.
There is a slight possibility that a problem with the pressure switch hose could be causing this problem.
A pinched or twisted air hose can cause this fault code.
When you open the console, check the air hose connected to the pressure switch on the machine control board.
If it is pinched or crimped, I recommend rerouting the hose to resolve this problem.
This may fix your problem without replacing the control board.
NOTE: You may want to check for this condition before ordering the control board. Most electronic control boards cannot be returned for a refund or credit.
If you find no apparent problems with the air hose on the pressure switch, then replacing the machine control board on this washer should correct your problem. There is a risk involved in replacing this part yourself.
As noted above, you could have a problem with the air pressure hose that is not apparent upon your initial inspection. A service technician would normally need to properly and thoroughly diagnose this problem before replacing the control board.
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Posted on Sep 18, 2010
remove drain hose from drain and lay the end into a bowl on floor, if water flows from your pipe then your pipes in machine are clear. this could then suggest the problem would probably be within your pump. Can you hear your pump making a humming sound?
Posted on Feb 18, 2010
Drain the water by lowering the hose into a bucket or something and then try it on spin, if it spins o/k then you probably have blocked pump or filter.
The filter is located in the large black hose that is fastened to the bottom of the drum, remove and clean.
Hopefully this will solve the problem.
Plz rate this solution.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
SOURCE: Washing machine displays E30
I have just had the same fault on a ZWF1631W machine. The machine overfills and goes straight to drain.
The level is controlled by an air pressure switch.
Remove the machine top, the switch is the round white plastic one. On mine, one of the wires had broken off. I had to replace the connector with .25" crimps.
If not, the switch may need replacing.
Posted on Apr 09, 2008
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