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I have a Karcher K5.80 power washer. I have to change the micro switch and as I took of the cover the plastic bits fell apart. Can someone help me to put them back together again please. Thanks

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Hi danny

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Posted on Jul 04, 2008

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Posted on Sep 19, 2008

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SOURCE: trouble with Karcher Pressure washer

Dear Pgarciax,
It is important that you must have mentioned the model number of your Karcher. Just the same I can surely say that your machine's fault lies in the "SPILL VALVE"
When the gun is open and pressure is being produced, the spill valve is in a relaxed position. Also it has at the bottom a valve, which when pressure is produced it is closed. If this does not close due to dirt or corrosion, the pessure goes down. Now when you close the gun,pressure forces the spill valve down to close the electrical system. Now if the "o" rings of the spill valve are damaged, the machine will start going on and off while in stand-by. So if you know how to locate the Spill Valve, all one has to do is change it with a new one.
In some Karcher machines there are 2 spill valves. One regulates pressure and the other one is for switching off the machine when the gun is closed.
Low pressure could also be due to faulty suction or delivery valves. Most probably the suction valves.
But when saying that there are short interruptions while in stand by, I stick to the fact that the spill valve needs renewing.
Regards,
MG.

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

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Karcher pressure washers are very sensitive to over-winter freezing. The plastic parts break, and you have to replace all of the leaking parts.
You may be missing a locking tab, without seeing the thing apart next to the exploded parts view, it's really hard to tell. Search google for "karcher parts", and put in your model number...

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Hi,
Shame you did not leave the model type of "Karcher" pressure washer as there are several models.
There is normally a special oil which should be changed, expect this to be done at least every three years or less.
1/. These pressure washers should only be serviced or taken apart at one of their registered dealers, as far as pulsating if you have the cheaper models then they do not last very long.
2/. Their better more power washers pulsate all the time & that is why they are sold new with a special fitted container, this allows all the pipes & water connections to fit & hold in supplied container, which allows you to give a higher or lower power controller where their yellow pipe that attaches to the gun fits on the machine.
3/. Where the pressure pipe goes into the power washer it has a black knurled fitting to adjust the pressure higher or lower out put, this is the only adjustment you can make on these power washers, everything else needs to be done by their approved dealers, situated all around the world, try finding your nearest dealer through the Internet. Hope this helps. Malcolm.

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This sounds like you may need a new capacitor. It is not a costly part to get. What the capacitor does is "jump starts" the motor so if it broken the motor will not start.

A test you can do is if you take off the front caseand then set the machine up as if you were going to use it. then when you turn on the machine quickly push the fan blade of the motor with a flat headed screw driver. If this makes the machine start to work, then you know that you need a new capacitor.

Just be carefull when doing the test.

Please remember to thumbs up :)

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Dear loliver2,
When trigger is shut, pressure builds up in machine and this activates a control-valve or often called a Spill Valve. This Spill Valve compresses with the built up pressure and switches off a micro-switch...which in turn stops the machine. Now when this Spill Valve gets faulty, it starts compressing and de-compressing undr pressure. Thus the micro switch is activated on and off. That is why your machine is starting and stopping. Now this Spill Valve also controls pressure. So to fix the fault you must change the Spill Valve with a new one. Myself I rarely service Spill Valves. You can locate the spill valve after you open the cover. The spill valve is usually covered with a plastic cap that contains the electrical micro switch. I do not know what model you have....but sometimes to improve the pressure you must also change the suction and delivery valves. But in most cases like yours...it is only the Spill Valve that is causing the starting and stopping and the low pressure.
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Dear firenutt681,
One simple thing you can do, is to check for leaks. Check if hose at machine is leaking. Check gun if it is leaking. You can also check if water still comes out of lance nozzel. These leaks however so small, will cause the machine to surge.
Another reason is due to a faulty SPILL VALVE. This spill valve( often called CONTROL VALVE) will contract when the gun is closed. When it contracts under the enclosed pressure it will switch off the machine by means of a Micro Switch. Now if this Spill valve is faulty it will loose its compression under pressure and puts on the micro switch again. This can be seen once in a while or more frequent, as in your case. I sometimes do service Spill Valves, but mostly I replace them with a new one. I do not know the model number of your machine, but normally you have to open the cover and you should spot the spill valve on the head. Most probably you see a thick wire or a cap containing the micro swith. If you find the micro switch, you have found the spill valve. Sometimes it is a bit hard to pull out the spill valve. Myself, in various Karcher models I remove the spill valve by trying to feed water and put on a bit the machine. In this way the spill valve will be spitted out.
Another reason which makes your machine surge, is leakage from from the detergent inlet.
If you do not see no leakages at all....then for sure it is the SPILL VALVE.
If you cannot do this job yourself or you do not find spare parts...you can continue using the machine as it is...but before closing the gun...switch off the electricity. I only recommend this in an emergency. You do this so that you do not leave the machine surging. This surge will for sure damage the electric motor and the capacitor (assuming it is single phase).
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Not sure if it is related by my MT200 would not power up at all eventually. Check the lamp cover micro switch is being depressed. I posted the comment below somewhere else. I hope this might help.

"I had exactly the same problem with the same projector. I took the whole thing apart last night, including all PCB boards the lot. After a lot of searching I found nothing untoward. Finally after figuring out how to put the thing back togther again, ready to accept defeat I noticed the micro-switch on the lamp replacement cover.
It turns out that the little plastic striker moulded to the lamp replacement cover was deformed/warped (possibly by heat?) and eventually it must have got to the point of not switching the micro-switch into the closed safe position. (I assume it there so that you can not power up the unit whilst the lamp cover is off, which would make sense) With the power effectively on and being very careful, I manually depressed the micro switch (with something plastic) the projector jumped into life! Of course I can not recommend anyone does this as it is probably not safe , but neither is having to pay a shed load for a service just for a **** plastic cover replacement. Long story short it fixed the issue. Hope this helps someone and saves them tearing their unit apart."

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I had exactly the same problem with the same projector. I took the whole thing apart last night, including all PCB boards the lot. After a lot of searching I found nothing untoward. Finally after figuring out how to put the thing back togther again, ready to accept defeat I noticed the micro-switch on the lamp replacement cover.
It turns out that the little plastic striker moulded to the lamp replacement cover was deformed/warped (possibly by heat?) and eventually it must have got to the point of not switching the micro-switch into the closed safe position. (I assume it there so that you can not power up the unit whilst the lamp cover is off, which would make sense) With the power effectively on and being very careful, I manually depressed the micro switch (with something plastic) the projector jumped into life! Of course I can not recommend anyone does this as it is probably not safe , but neither is having to pay a shed load for a service just for a **** plastic cover replacement. Long story short it fixed the issue. Hope this helps someone and saves them tearing their unit apart.

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