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Remove the frother nozzle: if its the early type with three hooks, slide the frother body down before trying to remove it. Disassemble the frother and clean the three holes in the end. If the holes are blocked, the steam can't escape. If it's not pushing hot water through the coffee holder, pull out the water reservoir, and remove and clean the grid plate assembly where the coffee holder clips in.
I just fixed mine - it had exactly the same problem.
First, though, check it's not within the Bosch TWO year guarantee; if it is, they'll either fix or replace it.
If it's not under guarantee then the problem is probably the rubber tubing that connects the external steam tube to the hotplate. You'll need to dismantle the iron. Mine had split right next to the spring clip that holds it on. I shortened it, clipped it back on and all is now well.
Hi Debby. I presume you're referring to the grille across the bottom front of the fridge? Based on several different brands of newer fridges we've owned, they are often held in place by spring clips that fit into matching holes at the bottom of the fridge frame. Gently push the grille into its proper place, using your hands over the parts of the grille behind which the clips are located, ensuring the spring clips are aligned with the holes they go in. The spring clips will "snap" into place and hold the grille there. If clips are aligned with holes but grille isn't snapping into place, I push harder on grille with my palm over only 1 end at a time (as close to clip location as possible). Most grilles being plastic these days, use the minimum force possible to get grille back into place, remembering some need more "encouragement" than others (due to rusty clips/frame holes, extremely strong clips, etc.). An older fridge (going on 20 years) had the grille held in place by a spring attached to each end of the back of the grille. My experience was that the grille never came completely off; it was only moveable. If a spring breaks (metal fatigue), or is disconnected from fridge frame and not re-attached, the grille may "sag" on that end, requiring a new spring (or re-attachment) or a piece of wire to hold it in place.
My XP5240 also started blowing the steamer wand off after about 3 months of use, despite fiollowing the Krups cleaning instructions. Here's what I did to fix it.
A: The Problems. The wand has three holes in the coffee end (center, and on each side). The center hole gets blocked with milk residue. This causes a pressure build up in the wand assembly, and eventually this is enough pressure to overcome the three gripping clips that hold the wand to the nozzle tube. I suspect this was an intentional design for safety. It's unfortunate that it also sprays the user with milk when it lets go.
The second problem is that removing the wand requires that the outer clip retainer ring to be slid down to release the clips. Many users don't realize this and try to pry or twist the wand off. This breaks the clips.
B: The Solution The wand has to be regularly and throughly cleaned. Just soaking it is not enough. Do it this way:
1. Slide the clip retainer ring down, and then hold the steam tube and gently move the wand straight down. DO NOT try to twist the wand to one side, or you WILL break the clips.
2. Holding the ring, unscrew the coffee nozzle end. The wand separates into three parts: Outer tube, inner steam tube and decorative cylinder.
3. Use a needle or very fine wire (approx 0.4mm) to clear the three holes in the coffee end nozzle.
4. You now need to clear the metal wand tube of milk residue. I found that a 7/64" drill bit was perfect to do this, as it fits snugly in the tube. The amount of gunk removed was surprising.
5. Blow the tube clear from both ends. If it's clean, you will be able to see light through all three holes. If not, go back to step #3.
6. Make sure that there is no milk residue on the steamer tube nozzle where the wand clips on. Milk contains fat, and this is an unwanted lubricant.
After cleaning, my steamer works properly for several days. I also located a 21mm ID O-ring at the local hardware store to hook over the clips. This provides a bit more clip gripping pressure, but will still allow the wand to come off should steam pressure gets excessive.
it is clogged with dried milk. Remove the frothing wand from the machine. now press milk froth. you should get a ton of steam blowing out of the hole where the frother used to be. Your frother comes apart for cleaning. pull the chrome tip off, pull the 90 degree fitting and the black milk suction tube off, if it is really dirty you can soak the disassembled frother in hot water with a cleaning tablet. ( the small ones you drop in the brew unit, not the big descaling tab.) also, there is a clear tube with a point on the end of it sticking out of the frothing wand. this is an air admittance oriface. it allows air to enter the hot milk stream and make it frothy and bubbly. if it gets clogged, you will get hot milk but no froth. Your machine came with a spare one in the parts kit.
Had this exact problem a few times on a cleaned well maintained milk jug top with an ESAM5500M. Delonghi 'repaired' it by sending a new milk jug frothing top.
It's caused by milk fat deposits, the frother part on the milk jug may look clean but deep inside it's not. I clean mine with pipe cleaners, detergent and hot water and still it wouldn't froth.
The problem re-occurs for me every 6 months or so. You could buy the milk fat remover solution to clean it. Personally I just boil the whole milk jug frother in detergent and the again in descaling solution, that's fixed this problem twice now, although I think it will eventually corrode the 'o' rings on the frother, still cheaper than buying a new frother part each time though.
If it still doesn't work after that, the only other reason for this problem I found mention of was caused by a broken rubber seal where the milk jug fits to the machine. It's most likely to be milk fat deposits inside the frother though.
1. Remove the froth enhancer and rinse under warm tap water. 2.. Wipe the steam wand with a damp cloth. 3. Briefly set the Selector Control to the ‘STEAM’ position to clear any remaining milk from the steam wand. If that doesn't work, remove any rubber parts. Place the metal frother tube in a pot of water with a bit of ammonia or vinegar in it. Heat the water to boiling, then let it simmer awhile.
The "frother" is probably blocked. Remove it and see if you can blow through it. If not, you can try cleaning it with a paper clip. If that won't work, place the metal frother tube in a pot of water with a bit of ammonia or vinegar in it. Heat the water to boiling, then let it simmer awhile. After it cools, try using the paper clip again. You should clean the steamer attachment after each use: 2. Remove the froth enhancer and rinseunder warm tap water.3. Wipe the steam wand with a damp cloth.4. Briefly set the Selector Control to the‘STEAM’ position to clear any remainingmilk from the steam wand.
You should be able to place it on the retainer and press it on, you may need to move it around a bit. If it just flat won't snap back on, check the retainer to make sure that the pins that fit into the clips on the back of the key aren't bent or broken, and check the clips on the key to see if the sides are bent or broken. If the pins or sides of the clips are bent, take a small flathead screwdriver and straighten them. If they're broken it will need to be replaced.
The stainless steel cover has a very small hole near the top. The hole allows a venturi action - meaning air molecules are entrained with the steam flow to increase the affect. Milk will clog the hole, but warm water and a guitar string, cheese wire, even a staple - something thin - will work to clean it out.
After frothing either clean the entire stainless steel piece or at least occlude the end at the same time as shooting through some steam. I usually use a kitchen sponge with the abrasive pad attached. The pad helps insulate the heat and provides the necessary resistance to force any milk out the small hole.
Yes, I hate living with this also. In fact I am considering machining a different steam tube assembly.