Question about Sewing Machines
I have rethreaded machine MANY times. It was working previously but when I rethreaded with new color of thread the thread does not loop it comes out 3 separated threads. Not working at all. Any suggestions?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
To thread the overlock you start with the inner most looper first, then the outer looper, then the inner most vertical needle and then the outer. This is the order: | | | | #4 #3 #1 #2 You have to ensure that the lower looper (the furthest one out) has the thread going over the slightly higher looper, the first one you did. If you do this you will be making a stitch. To make the loops fall close to the material is simply a case of altering the tensions on all the needles - I have to do this with my wifes machine. Once I have the tensions for her machine I'll be able to pass them on to you although every machine is different it may give you a starting point. I will try and perform this task this weekend - I'll be online next week and perhaps we can chat and I can send you our tension levels. I hope this helps.. my wife sews and I re-thread - she won't go near the inside of the machine and I won't try to sew :) BXL830
Posted on Jul 13, 2007
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....now for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !
If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au
Posted on Feb 26, 2008
DO NOT RESET THE TIMING!! The timing is off on maybe 1 in 100 modern Husqvarna machines. For the user to change the timing is turning a simple fix into a complicated and expensive fix.
If the top thread is "looping up on the bottom" then you have a problem with the tension on the top thread. Here is what to check:
1. Thread the machine all the way through the eye of the needle. Don't go under the foot.
2. Pull the tread to the side. While pulling, lower the presser foot. You should see the needle bend as the thread gets tight. If not, you have no tension on the top thread.
3. With the bobbin in the case, hold the needle thread and turn the handwheel to bring the thread up. Watch through the cover to see if the thread passes over the bobbin from left to right. When it gets to the right side, the take up lever should pull the slack out and the thread should be pulled up. If it comes part way across but does not pull up, make sure the thread is in the take up lever. If you never see the thread, remove the bobbin case and turn the hand wheel. You should be able to see the hook pass behind the needle while the eye is still below the level of the hook. If the eye is above the hook as it passes the needle from right to left, then and only then consider timing the machine. If the hook passes above the eye but doesn't catch the thread (bobbin case out, needle plate on, presser foot down) you probably have a problem with your needle. Put in a new needle and make sure that the flat side is to the back.
99% of the time when a Husqvarna is not picking up the bobbin thread, something simple has been overlooked. Your symptom of looping on the back of the fabric indicate either a threading or tension issue in most cases, not timing.
Posted on Sep 14, 2008
SOURCE: Thread looping on the bottom
Thread looping on the bottom means you have a problem with the top thread. In your case there is no tension on your top thread. Take all the thread out of the top and start threading over. Make sure you follow the correct path and make sure the thread goes through the tension discs. Then at the time of sewing, make sure your foot is down (this closes the tension discs and gives the thread the tension.) You may have worked on the tension setting while not realizing the thread was not in between theses discs, so also make sure the top tension disc setting is in the average before sewing.
(If you see loops on top, it means you have a problem with the bottom thread)
Posted on May 25, 2009
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