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How do I fix the short circuit that's preventing the refrigerator from cooling?

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FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.

Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.

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Posted on May 12, 2015

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RE: refrigerator motherboard Has anyone addressed the heat of the motherboard causing defects because there is a solid metal cover over the motherboard and nothing to let heat out or to...

Depends on some conditions.

Is the purpose of the metal cover to;

Prevent Dust Build up? - This can cause a short if there is a lot of dust on any "Motherboard" surface.

Prevent Water from hitting the board? - This will short most electronics.

Prevent little fingers from electrocution? - This would be for safety.

Is the Metal Cover made of a metal the dissipates heat? - This would be ideal. Some metals even though they may not seem effective and draw heat from objects rather then circulate air through the objects.

These are all valid reason to protect a motherboard as to the validity, that was up to the engineers. If you can contact the manufacturing company and speak to one of them, that would be your best bet to get a definitive answer.

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The fridge has a short

And your question is? Are you asking for assistance to solve a short circuit problem? What happens to the refrigerator when you say Fridge has a short? Cooling? Fans Run along with compressor? Sea Breeze

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Refrigerator stopped cooling

Almost all refrigerators have built in safety device to prevent permanent damage to the compressor when the power is turned of and on again after a short moment. Your refrigerator's COMPRESSOR should start to run and COOL AFTER 5 to 10 minutes.
Good luck.

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I have a Westinghouse frostfree rj25m upright fridge/freezer. The freezer is working fine but the refrigerator won't cool. I want to fix it myself as it is an old fridge and really not worth spending $300...

I am not sure if your freezer is working correctly if the fridge compartment is not at the right temperature. The way refrigerators work is that the fridge compartment is indirectly cooled by the freezer. The evaporator coils that cool the freezer, also cool the refrigerator. There is a fan in the freezer section that draws air from the refrigerator and blow them over the coils. The vent to the refrigerator could be blocked by debris or ice build up if the defrost circuit has failed. In order to check, you need to remove the back panel from the freezer section to check the condition of the coils/vent. Also check the fan in the freezer and see if it is operating. If the coil is encased in ice, then the defrost circuit has failed and that needs to be fixed otherwise the freezer will not cool to the correct temperature.

The way the defrost circuit worksis that normally the compressor has power for 8 hours, then the timer cuts power off and sends power to the defrost heater for about 45 minutes. The heater is attached to the coil and warms up the coil to melt the ice. When the coil reaches about 40 deg F, the thermostat which is in series with the heater, opens up cutting off power to the heater. This prevents the freezer from getting too hot. After the 45 minutes are up, the timer switches the power back to the compressor again to restart the 8 hour cooling cycle.

Any of the three components can fail causing you not to get the defrost cycle to work. Typically the timer stops advancing so you either stay in permanent cooling or defrost mode. Or the heater burns out so it can

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My frigidaire is not getting cold. Is there a way to troubleshoot to detemine if it's the compressor gone bad?

Good day,
Here is a basic checklist any qualified tech would use to isolate why a refrigerator won't cool.
Items that will cause a refrigerator not to cool.....
1. Defective thermostat
2. Defective freezer fan motor
3. Defective defrost timer or electronic defrost control.
4. Defective defrost thermostat
5. Defective defrost main heater.
6. Defective condenser fan motor
6. Defective compressor overload protector
7. Defective compressor start relay
8. Defective compressor start/run capacitor (some models only)
9. Defective compressor
10. Restriction in refrigeration sealed system
11. Loss of refrigerant (leak)
12. Excessively dirty condenser
13. Broken wires, bad wire harness connectors, ect.
14. Defective fan motor switch (some models only)

As you can see, there are multiple reasons a refrigerator won't cool, or cool properly.
To zero in on the compressor might take you away from the true non-cooling reason.

However. The compressor might have a defective relay or thermal overload that would prevent it from starting or running. Theses items can be removed from the compressor and taken to any appliance parts houses. Most all would be glad to test them for you.
As well, the compressor could have a bad valve internally that would prevent the compressor from pumping refrigerant, or there could be a restriction in the refrigeration lines preventing the refrigerant from circulating properly, or the windings in the compressor could be burned out or shorted, or lastly, the system could have developed a leak. All of the above compressor related issues, except for the first one could only be checked by a qualified tech.
I would treat the problem as a whole with the compressor being one of the potential issues.

Not to throw a monkey wrench into this but a refrigerator is like a car.
9 out of 10 times the problem and solution are obvious. It's that last 10% that take all the training and experience.

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Quick temporary fix - defrost the freezer (inside frezer lower back) it is probably full of frost/ice - this prevents air flow and therefore no air enters fridge side. common failure due to bimetal defrost thermostat failure ($20) - replace this part for a permanent fix - also advisable to swap out the defrost timer at same time

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hi im andy from ac refrigeration in south africa ur fridge is short of gas

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a full size refrige has to be on a 20 amp circuit, a 15 amp is just not big enough.. you should also know that this circuit has to be on a 12-2 gauge wire.. I also highly recommend installing a 20 amp HD receptacle

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Question...........Reference cooling Fans

yes, there is usually a relay or two on the circuit board to turn on the compressor and the fan motors. either the points of one or both relays are burned or there might be a burned conductor path on the board. if the latter is the case, there would have to be a reason it burned. in other words, just fixing the burned conductor path wont fix the problem, most likely. unless someone was messing around and shorted something, or moisture shorted something, the latter being pretty unlikely. relays burn with normal use. if it is a relay, you can check and fix it by removing the circuit board (after disconnecting power to the unit first), use a real small screw driver, like for glasses, a soldering gun or iron. remove the relay/relays. they are rectangular usually about 3/4 by 1 inch and black in color, take apart and sand points. one piece cover goes around all 4 sides and the top and youll probably crack the cover getting it off, dont worry, you can fill any cracks with epoxy putty or ......

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