I am not getting any CO2 and pressure readings from my Netatmo Indoor module. What is wrong?
I stopped getting CO2 and pressure readings from my Netatmo indoor module recently. I am still able to get temperature and humidity readings from both the indoor and outdoor modules. Touching the top of the indoor module shows a green light which according to the manual indicated that the CO2 level is good. What is wrong and can I repair the module please? Any way of opening the module and cleaning it if possible? Thanks
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Most air cons now have temperature sensors all over the machine. When it reaches temp on heat cycle, the machine usually shuts down both indoor and outdoor units but the indoor unit will keep running for a few minutes with the fan on only to cool the indoor unit down. This prevents the unit reading the wrong temperature. It stops the sensor(s) reading the heat from the indoor unit rather than the heat in the air in the room.
Feature : E7 Error code on indoor unit display panel
Communication fault between indoor and outdoor unit
This may be caused by:
1.wrong connection of cable,
2.indoor PCB, outdoor PCB fault, or power module fault
3.cable connection loose
Most of the time this reason is the beer temp and co2 is not right. first you dont go buy box temp but need to get beer temp. first make sure you have a calibrated thermometer. check your thermometer by mixing up a glass of ice and water let it stand a couple Min to achieve 32deg. put thermometer in water let stand 2 min to make sure it reads 32 deg. now draw a couple of glasses of beer in the same cup pour each in a pitcher. now draw a 3rd glass of beer in the same glass put the thermometer in it you wont the beer at 38 deg if to cold turn your box thermostat up or if to hot turn your box thermostat down to achieve a 38 deg beer. now it is time to check the CO2 pressure, you wont it at 12 psi. first drink a couple glasses with your friends this will let your keg pressure equalize. Now it is time to do a test poor. If the faucet gives a spurt of foam when you open it or the beer runs foamy-clear-foamy-clear than the pressure is too low, bump the pressure up 2 LB and let the pressure equalize a few min. If the beer runs to fast, turn off the co2 at the shut off where the tubing connects to the regulator (Always turn off the shut off when adjusting the regulator). Release some pressure from the keg by pulling the pressure relief valve on the keg coupler. Drop the co2 pressure 2 lbs. Turn the co2 line back on and let the pressure equalize. Often you can tell if the pressure is too low by looking at the beer line at where it connects at the keg coupler. If you see bubbles rising up the beer line from the coupler the pressure is to low or the seal on the keg or coupler is bad. Over many years of trouble shooting 3/16" bore shanks and fittings can cause a burst effect releasing carbonation from the liquid. The beer flow looks good but you end up with a glass half full of beer and half foam. For this reason 1/4" bore shanks and fittings should always used on the liquid side.
Basically speaking, air is air. Now it's the pressure that's the concern. co2 bottles use a regular valve that has a pin in it and opens to allow the gas through. High Pressure Air - HPA is the same concept but since the pressure with co2 is built up by expanding gas, HPA has to do it with pressure only. So the tank is pressurized a LOT higher than co2, but there's a regulator on the tank valve to bring the working pressure into the marker to the proper level.
So yes, you can use "air", but you need to make sure it has the right output for your marker. (i.e. not a low pressure HPA valve.).
You'll have the same problem though, getting someone to fill the bottle. Check with your local airsmith and paintball fields and stores. If they have co2 they would have HPA, but some do only deal with HPA since it's "easier" in some cases.
You may have to check around. Sometimes hardware stores have a small section in back, or you can check with the paintball places around to see if anyone in your area is equipped. Some teams have their own tanks, especially if there's not a place to get fills locally.
There's also online communities like Brigade and various paintball sites where you can check around for other players. Someone may have a co2 fill tank, a scuba tank for HPA, or a group that gets tanks together to make a run and get them filled somewhere.
EC is no ionisation and is usually the result of a gas pipe or gas supply pressure problem. The other problem is the installer never adjusted the CO2 levels. If the yellow paint on the two screws inside the cabinet is still intact, the plumber did not do his job. Make sure this is done with calibrated CO2 analyzer that was calibrated within the last 6 months.
well you are right the CO2 is causing the foam you may need to replace the regulator on the tank it is most likely bypassing the bellows inside...as a temp fix you can shut down the co2 and bleed off the air then just crack open the tank to (hand) regulate the flow ..
Shut of the CO2 tank, then hit the pressure release valve on the side of the beer tap. Make sure there is a grey check valve in the tap where the red hose (co2) is connected. Also make sure the white ball in the tap where the white hose (beer line) is not stuck. You can remove this, it isnt really necessary. Once all checks out, open the tank and readjust the co2 regulator. The reading should not be more than 12 PSI. Everything should work just fine after this. Make sure the glass is as close to the faucet as possible (slanted is better) when dispensing beer. Hope this help :)