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I had to pull the head off compressor when i put it back on air was blowing out the exhaust. there was a couple of plates under head did i put them back wrong

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  • 157 Answers

Chances are very good that's what happens. Those 'plates' are more than likely the valves that allow the air to enter the cylinder(s) and exit at the appropriate time and in the right direction.

Removal of the head to correct the problem is probably the only option you have.

Hope this helps.

Posted on May 31, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Compressor is building up pressure very slow.

It could very well be the valve plate however before you order parts take a look at the cylinders. Unplug the unit, remove the cover from crank side and turn the compressor by hand till the/a piston is at top of stroke. Examine upper cylinder for scratches /wear or failed vinyl piston ring. On oil-free compressors, dirt and grit is sucked-in from the bottom of the cylinder and causes leaks between cylinder wall and piston. If scratched, air pressure is leaking down thru cylinder wall. Failed reed valves cause a pulsation at the intake port (air seems to be pumped out the intake). If you see a model number anywhere on the pump that begins with " WL", your pump is made by Campbell Hausfeld. Parts can be ordered from www.chpower.com. other-wise order parts from sears parts. Cylinder kits are around $40. Good Luck on the repair and email if you have questions.

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: Kobalt 221565 air compressor. Has external oil

"bleeder under switch will not quit exhausting air while motor is off"
This is an indication of a bad check valve... the Nut-like fitting where the air enters the tank is really the check valve. Half of it is hidden, sticking down into the tank. Oil in the outlet air is most commonly an overfill or use of improper, detergent oil(standard motor oil). Could be also that the piston rings are clogged up with burnt oil. Sounds like you need to remove the pump head to replace a gasket anyway. Remove the valve plate also and clean. Spray carb cleaner down around the piston/cylinder, work the piston back and forth, spray some more. Change your oil using 30w non- detergent oil or synthtic non-foaming 20-50w. .

Posted on Oct 23, 2012

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"bleeder under switch will not quit exhausting air while motor is off"
This is an indication of a bad check valve... the Nut-like fitting where the air enters the tank is really the check valve. Half of it is hidden, sticking down into the tank. Oil in the outlet air is most commonly an overfill or use of improper, detergent oil(standard motor oil). Could be also that the piston rings are clogged up with burnt oil. Sounds like you need to remove the pump head to replace a gasket anyway. Remove the valve plate also and clean. Spray carb cleaner down around the piston/cylinder, work the piston back and forth, spray some more. Change your oil using 30w non- detergent oil or synthtic non-foaming 20-50w. .

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The link below is not exactly like your compressor but will give you an idea of how heads are assembled. If gaskets need replacing try making them out of automotive gasket material or use the metal from aluminum soda/beer can. If you need to replace a reed valve, make it out of feeler gauge material. The reed valve needs a little wiggle room to work, try to use gasket material of same thickness. There are two chambers in the head (upper most part), one chamber is intake the other is exhaust. The intake valve is usually slightly cleaner looking than exhaust valve (exhaust valve gets hotter, looks burned) and exhaust chamber in the head is usually darker sometimes oily. Intake reed is closer to piston. Exhaust reed is closer to top of the head.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/campbell-hausfeld-dp400000av-2005-air-compressor-pump-parts-c-32345_32355_33008.html

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