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Had a power outage. freezer is not working. running but not freezing.

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  • Maytag Master
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Fridge not starting? CLICKING? FIRST ALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts.

MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION
A BAD DEFROST TIMER CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER.

to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..


AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity















Posted on Apr 21, 2015

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1 Answer

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If the sides are hot, look at the defrost timer. Sounds like it has stopped running with the defrost elements on. The compressor has a safety switch on it that opens either if the compressor gets too hot or if it pulls too much current when starting. If your power flickered a lot before coming back on, that triggered the safety switch. Now that it's running normally, I wouldn't worry. The defrost timer is your problem now.

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When you think a reset would help, the run light should come on, after a little while. But perhaps only the thermostat is defect.
Be aware there can be so many causes, and none has to be related to the power outage, for your freezer not to work.
It would be virtually impossible to see what is wrong, from a distance. Better try to bring the food to a working fridge and call a tech to solve the problem.

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I understand that you had a power outage and now that power was restored, you have power inside the appliance but the freezer is not freezing and you can't hear the motor running. I would double check the breakers and make sure that they are on. You can also check the Temperature Control and make sure that it is not in the OFF position. If these solutions do not work, I would call the manufacturer for more help.

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Melanie--

Because this occurred as a result of a power outage, you need to check that the outlet is OK. Plug something in the outlet like a lamp and see that it works normally. If that is OK, check the display for a light bulb that is burned out--incandescant bulbs do that occasionally in a power outage. If it is an LCD or LED display, the power supply is bad on the display board. Is the motor humming and making normal noises?--and your freezer is just not cooling? If no motor noise, look for a reliable and trustworthy appliance repair person. If the damage is costly, try to pursue a claim with the power company.

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