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How do you separate the armature from the engine

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Can be a bit fun to remove. Some use a jacking screw in place of the center retaining bolt and others it is to loosen the center bolt.

The loosening of the center bolt but not the removal prevent armature (rotor) from completely off as you loosed it. To loosen place a wooden 2x4 against the side of the rotor and give it good smack with a heavy hammer to jar the rotor off the tapered motor crankshaft. Once loosen then of course you remove the center bolt to remove the rotor.

DO NOT OPERATE the generator without the center retaining bolt in place as serious injuries can occur as the rotor goes fly off.

Posted on Apr 20, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Replace timing belt on Porter Cable generator


With center bolt and windings removed apply wd40 to area where engine crank enters the armature. Also apply wd40 into hole where center bolt was attached. Let oil work for a while. Use piece of hardwood against metal part of armature and give a solid hit with good size hammer being careful not to damage wiring. If it does not come loose with first hit apply more oil then hit opposite side of armature. If after second hit no joy, spray carb cleaner into areas where you used wd40 and let sit (carb cleaner will thin wd40 for better penetrating action) , then hammer armature (hardwood over metal part) one solid hit . Give oil time to work, crank is taper fit and could have some rust. Good luck

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I have a 1998 volkswagen Jetta that has an oil leak on the upper part of the oil filter armature and would like to know if there is a seal on the upper part. There seems to be twoe allen crews on the upper...


1996 Passat TDI had 2 oil leaks at separate times. Both turned out to be leaking oil pressure sending units on top of filter bracket. Could not see either one leaking until someone got in the car and reved the engine. Simple fix for me once found.

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I can not remove armature caseing from makita miter saw


The casing at the saw end will have an inside case that is bolted either from behind the gears or from the armature side by screws. This has to be undone to allow the bearing to separate from the case

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Model3708 oil from engine crank case leaking into armature


This really works. Just done it on a Wolf which peed oil when running. I found 2 crankcase bolts had fallen out. This video helped. BUT the hardest bit is getting the 7/16" Tap & bolt as it's a non standard size in UK. It can only be 7/16" as it is the correct size for the existing hole in the armature. Once tapped the bolt has to be very tight before anything moves, a smart tap with a BIG hammer on the bolt head had them apart.
Regards Tim

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Reciprocating saw armature removal


usually there is a screw in the diaphragm to hold that assembly tight. You need to remove the brushes first and you might need to GENTLY pry the diaphragm from the motor housing. Then using a soft blow hammer tap the armature out of the plate. I would recommend replacing the bearings and brushes when doing the armature. Let me know if you need more assistance.

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How do you separate the generator from the engine on a honda eb 6500x generator. It seems as if the generator is frozen to the output shaft unless there is a hidden bolt or something.


unbolt from the engine then it will just pull of leaving the armature still in place on the crank shaft you may need to use a puller to get it moving

Mar 21, 2010 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Separate the Crankshaft and the generator armiture


Here is the secret.... Remove the end cap of the armature and the long bolt securing armature assy to the engine shaft.

Tip the generator vertical so that the bolt hole is UP.

Put several rags on the back of the engine that is facing up. (Important)

Find or purchase a bolt of exact size at least 3 inches long that will screw into the hole that is facing up.

(With bolt in hand)

Fill the hole all the way to the top with any OIL.

Thread the bolt into the hole and turn with a wrench.

When the aramture separates it most often will make a BANG and scare anyone nearby!

Lift armature away from the engine.

Use rags on the back of the engine to clean up oil mess.

That is it in a nutshell.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

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1 Answer

Replace coil


If, by coil, you are referring to the ignition armature and since you didn't specify what brand of engine you have I will give you instructions for Briggs: ((The instructions are similar with MOST engines with a few variances.))

Disconnect the spark plug2.gif wire from the spark plug, remove the blower housing from the top of the engine (That is the half round/half square metal cover on top of your engine, this will give you access to the ignition armature:

Installing And Adjusting A New Ignition Armature

An ignition armature must be set at a precise distance from the flywheel. Ask your Briggs & Stratton Authorized Dealer or consult our Engine Check Chart for the proper gap for your engine. Common armature gap ranges are .006- .010" and .010 - .014". Armatures are often packaged with a shim to assist in setting the gap. Microfiche or index cards of the proper thickness also work well.
  1. Remove the old ignition armature mounting screws (image A). Then, disconnect the stop switch wire from the flywheel brake and remove the armature.
  2. Attach a replacement armature from the original engine manufacturer, using mounting screws (image A). Then, push the armature away from the flywheel and tighten one screw (image B).
  3. Turn the flywheel so the magnets are on the opposite side from the ignition armature (image C).
  4. Place the appropriate shim between the rim of the flywheel and the ignition armature. While holding the shim, turn the flywheel until the magnets are directly adjacent to the armature (image D).
  5. Loosen the tight screw so the magnets pull the ignition armature against the flywheel and shim. Then, tighten both mounting screws and rotate the flywheel until the shim slips free.

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MY 2005 DODGE DURANGO WILL NOT START UNLESS IT IS JUMPED. THE BATTERY POWER WAS TESTED AT ADVANCED AUTO. ACCORDING TO THE SALES REP, THE POWER WAS GOOD (450 OUT OF 600). WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM?


450 out of 600 what? sounds like you have somthing drawing power need an amp meter. remove key and leave window down. disconnect negitive battery cable and connect meter between the negitive cable and negitive termainal on the battery should see around 2.5 milliamp draw or less may take 1/2 hour to get to this point. also if this vechile is not driven often this could be the problem

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Having problems removing separator on Rainbow Vacuum....


Not a good sign. If your Rainbow is SE or newer - separator should not spin freely.

Some may recommend torch but I am afraid that you may end up melting some plastic parts so be careful. I'd say put a wrench on the nut, hold the separator and press it towards the motor (thus holding the armature as much as it is still possible) and then hit the wrench that is on the nut with another one - create momentum.

If this does not work - you can use pliers to destroy the separator completely so you would gain access to another nut that is under the separator so you can hold the armature with another wrench.

I can not guarantee 100% that you will succeed as sometimes those nuts are so rusted that you have to have the armature held in a vise.We usually disassemble the motor so we can hold the armature by hand or in a vise but if you do not want to go that far into the motor - use described above method - maybe it will work.

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