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My hot water to the shower goes cold after 3-4 mins could please help?

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  • Water Master
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A couple of things to check on the side of the hot water system you will see a valve with a small lever
lift that lever until there is a solid stream of water coming from the pipe
that ensures that the heater tank is full
next -if you have a temperature mixer on the hot water pipe out of the tank ( stops scolds in the bath, shower sink) by controlling the temperature mix at the tank
They are known to fail and shut down the hot water supply by adding extra cold water into the system
other than that get a plumber in to fix the fault.

Posted on Jun 20, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: Combi Boiler - Running warm & then cold!? HELP!

mixing valve must be replaced

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Water is either hot or cold - no in between.

I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.

So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: BOSCH AQUASTAR 2400ES NATURAL GAS TANKLESS HOT WATER HEATER

Q. FA - Gas leakage error, gas valve circuit not closing properly
A.

  1. Disconnect power supply cord and check wire connections on gas valve and the two connectors on the control board.
  2. Flow water out of a hot water tap above the minimum activation point of .8GPM. Measure voltage at the gas valve wire connector. The connector should measure 24VDC between the left pair of wires and 24VDC between the right pair of wires when the unit is operating. If voltage is not correct, contact Bosch Water Heating for further instruction.
  3. Gas valve may be defective, contact Bosch Water Heating for further instruction.
Q. EA - No flame ionization detected with water flow
A.
  1. Verify that all manual gas shut off valves are open.
  2. Verify gas type (See Fig. 2 in installation manual) corresponds with the type of gas supplied to the heater.
  3. Reset error code and open a water tap to cycle the heater in an effort to purge air from gas line (especially on new installations). Cycling hot water tap on and off multiple times may be necessary. If heater still faults with EA error code, have a licensed gas technician properly purge air out of the gas line leading to the water heater.
  4. Verify the three yellow wire connections to the set of electrodes (underside of the burner assembly) are secure.
  5. Verify gas pressure meets specifications outlined in chapter 3.8. See Bulletin TWH-G2-03.
  6. Verify venting meets specifications outlined in chapter 3.6 of the installation manual. Improper venting may cause premature failure of the flame sensor rod.
  7. Observe inside the viewing window of the heat exchanger when a hot water tap is opened. Sparking should be followed by a steady blue flame. If not, Call Bosch Water Heating with observations. Readings from above gas pressure test will be required.
Q. C1 - Fan rotation too low on startup
A.
  1. Disconnect power supply cord. Check wire connections on back side of fan and the two large wire connectors on the control unit. Removal of lower access panel on control unit is necessary to access connectors.
  2. Verify that supply voltage is 120VAC and is properly grounded.
  3. Verify that venting meets specifications outlined in chapter 3.6 of the installation manual. Long vent lengths, venting with more than three elbows, blocked vent or combination venting may cause this failure. Verify backdraft flapper inside flue gas collector is not stuck shut.
  4. Check gas pressure. See Bulletin TWH-G2-03. Low gas pressure may cause the fan to change its speed to meet desired temperature.
  5. Possible defective control unit. Call Bosch Water Heating for further instructions.

Posted on Mar 15, 2009

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: I have a thermostat mixer shower but hot water has

The thermostatic mixing spool cartridge may be worn out. The low water pressure may indicate sediment in the cartridge as well. This can be easily removed by hand tools

Posted on Feb 19, 2010

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: rinnai infinity hot water service, goes hot and cold...not fun in the shower!

We had the same problem - the hot water would only be hot for 3 -5 minutes and shut off, then we had to turn the water off, wait a few minutes, and do it again. VERY FRUSTRATING.

Solution: The Rinnai serviceman showed me the heat-exchanger blower/fan: It was clogged with dust and moths.

Another clue: Our Rinnai was extremely noisy when the heat came on. After the fan was cleaned and replaced, it is nearly silent.

If you are reasonably machanically inclined:
TURN THE BREAKER / POWER OFF to the unit.

The blower-fan is located in the lower central area of the unit (at least on our unit). If you draw imaginary north-south, east-west lines through the center of the unit, the fan is in the lower-left quadrant. There is a spring clamp securing the black rubber accordian-like tube to the fan. There are two screws that secure the fan to the unit. there are two plugs that connect to the fan, as well as a third air-flow sensor that should be removed. then you can look at the fan unit, as well as the grill on the underside of the heat-exchanger that should be cleaned.

My thought was to go out and get a simple bug-screen, and place it over the air-input outlet vent going outside, but the repair guy said that although it may sound good, if that screen ever gets clogged, or reduces airflow to the Rinnai, then the unit will work harder, or even shut off, giving the same problem,

Posted on May 07, 2010

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