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Miele plate warmer esw5088-14 warming drawer will not close

The warming drawer will not close completly and stays open about 20 mm

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  • catabej Jan 03, 2018

    i opened the drawer's back and the tamper ( shock absorber) is in a abnormal position, tryied to pull it back to the normal position - it worked for few days but it kiked back offsite and the drawer is not closing again. I noticed that the tamper is not moving smoothly as it should. I think the solution is to change the tamper. Any ideea of the part-number ??



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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 121 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung 1710 stops after warm up

Chances are, you're getting paper jams.  Try cleaning the rollers (as indicated below.)  If that seems to help the situation, then you'll need to get new feed rollers.

Look where you put the paper in. See if you can see inside there and see the roller that turns and picks up the paper. If you can, make a mixture of alcohol and a little dish soap. Damp a rag with it, and reach in there to clean the rollers.  See if the rollers will turn manually, but be careful not to force anything.  Another way to get to the whole roller, would be to start making a print, while watching the rollers.  As soon as the rollers have turned half way, unplug the printer.  Now you can reach the other side and clean that.

There is another way to clean the rollers.  Using the alcohol mix, take a single sheet of paper, and damp one half of it with the solution.  Stick the single sheet in the paper tray, and make a print, but hold on to the paper so that it doesn't feed through the machine.  Do this several times, and the rollers turning against the wet paper should clean them.

Try to print again. It might take a few tries. The rollers have to turn against the paper and dry themselves off again.

If this works, then you need new rollers (cleaning them will only make them work temporarily and the problem will come more frequently until you change them).


Posted on Oct 30, 2007

  • 413 Answers

SOURCE: The top drawer intermitantly makes the drawer opening noise

On the right side, near the top. there are two light pipes on the drawer. One sends an infrared beam of light to a reflective area on the cabinet, the other receives this light. Wipe these areas with a clean dry cloth.

Posted on Jun 01, 2008

  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: Water won't drain, Soap Door open with soap still there and stops running at Plate Warmer cycle

Reset the washer manually. Close the machine, and slowly advance the timer till you here the fill valve start. Then let it do it's thing

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

  • 456 Answers

SOURCE: LG DVD recorder/VCR Combo problems

you need to replace the dvd loader(the whole setup, the draw/tray,laser sled assy ,etc) statewide sell
parts for lg.unless you know an authorised lg repair agent.too bad you dont know me, lol.
(ps,its not in the manual,cuz there is nothing you can really do about it without serviceing the unit)

Posted on Oct 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: lg dvd drawer opens by itself and wont stay closed

I tried the solution documented at
3:rd Loader repairing

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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How to replace a Miele W820 shock absorber

A couple of things: I was looking for a baby guide to shock absorber replacements.... everywhere it is said that it is "easy".. but none of the descriptions of the work that I read were complete. So, this is my attempt.

First, our W820 has no bottom plate, so access is possible through the base, contrary to what has been written: BUT, you might not need it.. read below.

The steps are as follows:
1) Open the washer door. Turn off and disconnect the power.

2) Remove the top: To do this, take out the two plastic screw covers on the left and right of the top and undo the screw. (Crosshead). The top can be hinged backwards and then lifted off.

3) Inspect the drum. Push it up and down; if it bounces more to one side then that is probably the location of the faulty shock absorber. It is good practice to replace both shocks at the same time. However in our case a repair man fixed just one ! a year ago and the bouncing showed that the shock on the right was faulty.

3) Remove the washer front panel. You do this as follows:
a) Remove the soap drawer and put it to one side, pulling it forwards and depressing the red plastic lever visible towards the rear of the drawer. This allows it to be slid out.
b) Remove the three star-headed screws holding the soap drawer surround in place (I used Allen screw drivers for this.. not good I know).
c) Open the panel used for draining the machine (front panel, bottom left) and unhook the plastic drain pipe which clips into the door.
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e) The front panel can now be hinged open (hinges on the right) and you should be able to see inside. Take the opportunity to clean up any visible mess.

4) Inspect the shock absorbers. The right hand shock is visible through the bottom right of the front of the machine. It is a metal cylinder about 6" long fixed at an angle. The left shock is visible but hard to access from the front.

5) In our case we only need to replace the shock on the right. You need a 13 mm ring spanner and you can do the removal entirely from the front... without even moving the machine. Undo the bolts at the top and bottom of the shock and pull it out. Inspect it for confirmation of fault. In our case there was NO resistance to movement at all. If it looks to be in good condition then it is probably the other shock causing the problem. In any case replace both.

6) The left-hand shock needs the machine put on its side for access through the base. Put down some cushioning material, blankets, heavy cardboard, etc to protect the sides and gently tip the machine. Ideally this is a two-person activity. If not, be careful! Again, with a 13 mm ring spanner unbolt and replace the faulty shock.

7) How tight should you bolt the shocks.. as tight as you can with one hand. The machine is robust.. but breakages can occur if the ring spanner slips and hits wiring or connectors, so ensure that the spanner is always fully home on the bolt head and wiring pushed out of the way. I protected my hand from spanner slippage by wearing a gardening glove for this part of the operation.

7) Now all we need is to reassemble:
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You should now have a working Miele with several more years left to run.
When we bought our first Miele (in Holland) it had an expected lifetime of 20 years according to the store. It survived for 20 years, surviving moves across 3 countries. We then tried Hotpoint.. total rubbish and it died after 3 years. We are now on our second Miele and it is around 17 years old and, with this repair, working perfectly. Perhaps one more will see us into (and out of) retirement. In the meantime, it is worthwhile keeping these excellent machines in good condition. They are not throw-away!

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Hello, Bosch Classixx fridge freezer warms up in fridge compartment, freezer seems OK. Is it just icing up, & I could switch it off for 48 hours? Or what to do? Thanks.

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