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Grinding noises even empty, if you select drain and spin it makes grinding noises

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 5,323 Answers

LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.

In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.



If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.




Posted on Apr 20, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

dididsaythat
  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: Washer agitates, but makes horrible grinding noise. Spins okay.

thanks for posting problem solve :0)

Posted on Sep 03, 2007

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Washer Making Loud Grinding Noise

not nesseccarrily your pump, possible you have a rear bearing going bad, which will sound as if a helicopter is coming through your laundry room. ( noisy pump can be the issue , honestly a better and cheapre problem to have) in order to determine if its apump problem you can remove the lower access panel and unplug the pump then start the spinn cycle, if it still loud the pumpms not hte issue.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

futureloginn
  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 series won't agitate, spin or drain

hello there,
If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.













Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

  • Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.


  • The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.


If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it. Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Grinding Noise when Washer Attempts to Spin

It is probably the same problem because it is trying to drain during the spin cycle. My machine sounded as though a chain wis clanking, the solution was removing a coin caught in the drain pump. Access the pump from the bottom of the machine. 4 screws hold the mounting bracket on undo those, the electrical connection and two hose to the pump. Undo three screws holding impeller to motor and coin can fall out. Examine for damage if it is not too tore up, put back together. Keep in mind that when you unclamp the hoses that water will come out.

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

dwrooker
  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: maytag PAV2300AWW Washer makes grinding sound when agitating

Sounds like it is the bearing on the water pump. Take off back plate and replace and remove 3 screws and two hoses (the one hose is a waste line so make sure you have a bucket to empty our waste water) after removing these remove belt on bottom of pump.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

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2 Answers

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Have you replaced the clutch or spin tube? There is a brake actuator that comes with the clutch kit and if this is broken it can make a very loud grinding or clacking sound.

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Whirlpool ETW4100SQ washer. Unit stopped agitating, grinding noise appeared. Tub is loose, agitator is free, was able to empty the drum.


Hello,

while your washer will draining, in addation to the noise during the agitate cycle is it making a similar noise during the drain/spin cycle?
if that is the case the motor coupler is broken
i have attached a youtube video that will show you step by step how to replace the coupler

http://youtu.be/9K1KHEogf3c

the part number indicated in that video is the exact part number for the coupler

GOOD LUCK,
GENE

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Have a proforma toploader and is making a grinding noise in both wash and spin cycle. it is still draining and doing everything just making the noise.


We have a proforma toploader washing machine and when using the machine in makes a very loud grinding noise during the spin and wash cycle. On occassion it also does not spin the clothing out properly, however the machine is still usable.

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You will hear this noise when the impeller become separated from the actual drive stud or, shaft.

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It is probably the same problem because it is trying to drain during the spin cycle. My machine sounded as though a chain wis clanking, the solution was removing a coin caught in the drain pump. Access the pump from the bottom of the machine. 4 screws hold the mounting bracket on undo those, the electrical connection and two hose to the pump. Undo three screws holding impeller to motor and coin can fall out. Examine for damage if it is not too tore up, put back together. Keep in mind that when you unclamp the hoses that water will come out.

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Does it sound like a bearing noise or more a grinding noise. Could something maybe be stuck in the drain pump. When does it actually make the noise?

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