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My Mach 1 electric scooter Is a 2 pin European plug so what fuse sicker would I need to get without them burning out 13 amp plug ok or .

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It is usual practice to cut off the European plug and fit a British 13 amp plug even though adapters are available. The charger isn't likely to require much current so fitting a 3 amp fuse should be ok. If you discover the plug or the positive pin is becoming warm after some time you could increase the fuse rating to 5 amp, though I doubt it will be necessary.

Posted on Apr 19, 2015

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hi, Are you sure then battery box is fitted correctly ? you need to make sure the battery box is supplying a voltage to the scooter, there is a fuse located within the box however it rare to blow this unless you used a higher amp charger , normally more than 5 amps, this type of charger would be for a 8 mph scooter etc.

IF you have access to a electrical meter plug the two probes into the outside pins of the charger socket , do not allow them to touch, measure the voltage, no voltage then the fuse has gone or a contact has come off the battery

IF you located anywhere near me SS16 then testing is free.

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I have a 2001 ford focus. The car shut off on it's own and it turns out I blew the 30A ignition fuse. When I replaced it, the car worked as normal for about 5 seconds before it blew again. Where should...


Wow! You just passed your first course in "Auto Repair 101". I don't have to explain it to you like I do 90% of the folks out there that think that a problem with their electrical circuit is caused by a fuse. I am constantly preaching that FUSES are NEVER the cause of a circuit failure. Blown fuses are ALWAYS the RESULT of a circuit failure. I tell them that the fuse is blown because it has given its life to keep your vehicle from burning to the ground. I go on to say that replacing that fuse without finding and correcting the condition that caused it to blow in the first place will only cause another fuse to have to give up its life to stop your car from toasting. In such cases, the first fuse will have died in vain. But you already figured that one out by yourself!
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Fuse #8 (Ignition), 30 Amp, located in the Battery Junction Box (under the hood) feeds the circuit which goes to Pin #5 (RED) in connector #13 at the Central Junction Box (Under left side of dash). Here, it provides the power source for the starter relay. It also branches off at this point and continues to the ignition switch. (A very likely place for your problem to be located)
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From the ignition switch it returns to the Central Junction Box (CJB) via 5 separate circuits.
1. From Pin #7 on the ignition switch (Grey/Black) to Pin #4, Connector # 17 (CJB)
2. From Pin #6 on the ignition switch (Yellow) to Pin #6, Connector #17 (CJB)
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4. From Pin #3 on the ignition switch (Black/White) to Pin #14, Connector #11 (CJB)
5. From Pin #5 on the ignition switch (Red/Black) to Pin #10, Connector #11 (CJB)

It also branches out from Pin #3 at the ignition switch and runs to Pin #2 in Connector #931 at the Gearshift Lever Unit.

At the Central Junction Box, it feeds several other (smaller) fused circuits. Your problem will not be beyond this point. (If it was, the smaller fuses would be blowing, not this one)

If there are any aftermarket accessories (i.e. Alarm, Remote Start, Stereo Amplifier, etc.) tied into any of these ignition circuits, I would try disconnecting them first, unless it is very obvious that there is something else wrong like a burned ignition switch connector.

The circuit from the Starter Relay to the Starter could also be the problem, but not very likely if the engine was running at the time that it blew.

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Carefully read across two pins, without shorting to the case or other pins. You should have 1 hot, one ground, and usually another ground that acts as a charge inhibit to keep the scooter from driving while charging. I would expect to see around 27 Volts DCX on the output, maybe more without a load attached (battery)

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