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Iseki tractor starter solenoid shorted out after washing. Replacement solenoid also blew after 3 minutes $250.

Iseki TG5390 diesel 40hp tractor

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: wiring diagram for Iseki T2200 tractor

**** your pant D-bag

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

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SOURCE: my lawn tractor will not start, I have replaced

It sounds like you covered a lot of your bases so far. I would check for a good ground from the battery to the mower frame. This may mean, removing the ground cable where it mounts to the frame, cleaning that location and remounting the cable. Also you may want to have your battery load tested. A battery can show a standing 12 volts but yet not have enough "amps" to get the job done. When you jump start it with your vehicle, you simply bypass all the above.

Posted on Feb 12, 2011

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SOURCE: jd 318 tractor won't start

yes it matters.Take note of which color was on which tab.If you connect new solenoid, like how the old solenoid wires were connected.Then only it will work.Otherwise it will not work.--- Locate the positive wire that connects the solenoid with the starter. It will be virtually the only wire that runs from the solenoid to the starter post. One wire goes to battery the negative wire and other goes to ignition switch. ----------------

The red wire from the circuit breaker goes to terminal "B" of the ignition switch. On your tractor there should also be a light green wire in this terminal. Terminal "S1" should have the single purple wire that goes to the coil of the solenoid, Terminal "S2" should get the purple wire and the purple/black wire. ------------
This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on May 11, 2011

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SOURCE: tractor won't start replaced solenoid

You have two safety interlocks that must be "made" before the engine will start.
The brake must be engaged.
The blades must be disengaged.
There may be a neutral safety too.
All of these switches must be closed to get ignition.

Posted on Jun 07, 2011

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Model 2600 diesel tractor-starter motor

I have the same problem on a gas 2600. Sometimes it engages and sometimes it doesn't. you can replace just the drive end and gear, that's going to be my next shot. I've had the starter off several times and cleaned and inspected it and it "appears" to be working correctly. I even took it to the starter guys we've always used and they found nothing wrong.

Posted on Jul 09, 2011

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Have a 1710 diesel tractor chged ign switch,now by key wont work.short solenoid at starter will can I get it to start by key

Three things I can think of, you pulled wire from plug when changing, improper switch or wrong switch. Really four as you may have safety switch such as clutch, seat or pto that is not making.

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Do you have a wiring schematic for the starting system on a 1994 Ford 4630 Diesel Tractor?

Randy, Check the attached link and scroll through it, hope it has the info. you need.
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

1994 Ford 4630 Diesel Tractor wiring schematic for the starting system...

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a Suzuki Tractor? , you need to post in tractor this is jeep cars and trucks, sorry.

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How old is the fuel in the tractor? is it petrol or diesel powered?

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John deere 250 skid loader - purchased new in late 2001. every time i turn the switch to start the engine, it blows the fuse.

Apparently you have a short in the starting circuit. I would try disconnecting the start wire from the solenoid, and see if it still blows fuse. If it does it's in the control circuit. If not it's the starter solenoid.
There should be an operator present switch under the seat, that sometimes short out from an accumulation of dirt and debris that get moist.There is also a neutral safety switch and/or relays.

Oct 17, 2010 | John Deere 4020 Gas & Diesel Tractor...

1 Answer

I have a JD 750 compact tractor 4X4 diesel it is a 1983 first the ignition key would work off and on then stopped all together I have been jumping it for about a month (yes I know you are not supposed to...

There is a solenoid attached to the starter that does 2 things; engages the starter to the engine (the bendix) and closes a large contactor to feed power to starter.

On the solenoid there should be 3 wires but only 2 may be visible;
One heavy wire goes directly to the positive of the battery, the second goes from the solenoid to the starter and should be really short and sometimes just a heavy braided copper link. This is the one that may not be visible.

The third wire is the one you are after which is much smaller (thinner than the the other two). It may be connected to a screw terminal on the solenoid or it may be a push on terminal. Disconnect it from the solenoid and use a comparable size piece of wire directly from the postive of the battery to this terminal on the solenoid; not the wire you disconnected buy where it connects to the solenoid. BE CAREFULL!! The diesel may start up right away because you are bypassing all the interlock safety features. Best to cut off the fuel supply.

If the starter engages, the starter and solenoid are not the problem. You need to check the following:
  1. Are the battery contacts clean and in good condition?
  2. Is the battery completely charged up?
  3. Is there a seat safety interlock or neutral safety interlock?
  4. Is there a PTO interlock?
Since this is a diesel, the only way to protect the operator from starting the engine under load is by interlocking the starter (there is no ignition sytstem). You need to place a 12 Volt bulb or a meter from the small wire you disconnected from the solenoid (on the wire side not the solenoid side) and place the second connection to ground. Turn the ignition key to "start" and if all the interlocks are closed like they should be the meter should read 12 volts or the bulb will light.
If this tests out fine, you need to test the starter:

Using a car booster cable use one wire only (the red one), attach one side to the positive of the battery, the second (same wire opposite end of the booster cable) to the short side (short heavy wire from solenoid to starter) carefull not to touch the cable to ground!!!!. If you get a big spark when you touch the solenoid tyerminal, and the starter spins (but should not engage the engine), then the solenoid on the starter needs replacing. If the starter does not spin, the starter is pooched and you need a new one.

If you don't get 12volts or the bulb doesn't light at the small solenoid wire, then you either have a bad start switch, open interlock somewhere, blown fuse in series with the start circuit or or bad wiring which you need to trace where it went open. Finding the open circuit is actually easy.

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2 Answers

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you need to replace the contacts in the starter solenoid this is a fairly simple job and will cost around $30

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Ride on will not start. B&S motor.

Logic would dictate that the starter motor is burning out, drawing far too much current, and that the current overheated the solenoid and toasted it. Now the starter is almost a short circuit and while it spins it has no power. A spendy part to be sure. Perhaps you can find a used one from your friendly neighborhood repair guy.
A compression release is found on old diesel's, but not on gas engines.
Starters can fail from cranking on them for extended periods. They are designed to handle short periods of use, maybe 20 seconds on followed by several minutes (like 15) off. If you have had starting problems and kept cranking to get it going that would explain the fried starter.

May 14, 2009 | Briggs & Stratton Garden

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