Question about Sewing Machines
I am specifically looking for the complete tension assembly for the lower (green) tension control. I was recently given this and have no idea how to find parts.
Check with sewvacdoctor.com or A1sewingmachines.com or ebay or sewingpartsonline.com
Posted on Jun 03, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
As this happened mid project, I would pay most attention to check the top tension for lint or thread...........this full process of elimination ought to cover all possibilities.
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !
Posted on Jun 24, 2008
Putting this back together is a thirty second job if you have done it a hundred times. If you have never done it but have mechanical aptitude, it may be a challenge.
Whatever you do, don't bend the check spring out of shape!
Below is a link to the Singer site with the schematic for reassembly. When placing the check spring back in place, place it in about the 6 o'clock position with no tension so that it has a fair amount of check before pulling it up in place..
When setting the tension, at a setting of "1" the tension disks should just be slightly compressing the beehive spring. "0" is almost no tension at all. Normal sewing is 5.
Get all of the parts together and push in the cup with the numbers while screwing on the knurled nut taking care to get the pin in one of the holes.
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
Try some metal bobbins, #15 or SA 156. that seems to help. If, you don't have a manual go to brother.com and download one for free
Posted on Jul 27, 2010
SOURCE: sewing machine tension
Hi. The upper tension is too loose (even tho it looks ok). If the upper thread is too loose, it can't pull the bobbin thread up to properly form the stitch and you get those messy 'birds nest' on the bottom side of the fabric. I posted a Tip on Adjusting Tension--read that and adjust your upper tension.
Posted on Aug 02, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks! That does help. Now I'll have to find your tip on Adjusting Tension =)"
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Remove your Janome sewing machine from the box, placing the main machine on a hard surface appropriate for sewing and the accessories and smaller items to the side. Unwrap all of the wrapped items. Remove the tape used to protect the machine during shipment. Set aside the power cord and foot pedal.
Attach the power cord to the machine. The power cord plug-in area is located on the lower right side of all Janome sewing machines and has a series of metal prongs and a power switch. Fit the female end of the power cord onto the metal prongs and push it gently until it no longer moves.
Attach the foot pedal to the machine. The foot pedal plug-in is also located on the lower right side of all Janome machines, right next to the power cord plug-in. Press the foot pedal plug-in into place gently until it no longer moves.
Turn the power switch on. The power switch is located in the same area as the foot pedal and power cord plug-ins and is a rectangular black switch. Press this button. The sewing machine light will turn on.
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin, located on the upper right top side of the sewing machine. Place the thread so that the thread unwinds in a counterclockwise motion, with the thread coming off the back of the spool.
Insert a needle into your machine. Consult your owner's manual for the appropriate size and type of needle. Turn the needle clamp screw, located above the needle area, toward you to loosen it. Turn the needle so that the flat part of the upper shaft area faces the rear and slide the shaft of the needle up and into the needle area. Turn the needle clamp screw away from you to tighten the needle and lock it into place.
Wind the bobbin and insert the bobbin into the bobbin case. This procedure may vary depending on the model of your Janome machine, so consult your owner's manual for specific instructions.
Thread your machine according to the directions in your owner's manual. Like the bobbin, this procedure can vary widely depending on the model of your Janome machine.
Set your tension, located on the front of the machine, to halfway between three and four. The tension may be a dial or it may be computerized and located on the LCD screen, depending on your model. Consult your owner's manual to find out how to set the tension.
Place a piece of scrap fabric in the machine and sew a test seam before you start to work on a project to make sure all of your settings are correct.
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