Question about Kenmore Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
My oven door stays locked , when I press the clear button I get F1?
I hold the clear button for a few seconds and still nothing.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
Same problems. When I removed the lock operating arm nothing happened. Motor is not operating. I've temporarily kluged it by tying the "unlock" (upper) switch circuit together and disconnecting one side of the power to the "locked" (lower) switch. At least we'll have an oven to use, but I'll have to come back and remove the lock motor assembly to find out what's really wrong.
BTW, if some knows those keyed-in service codes they could be useful.
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
This is a design flaw in the Kitchenaid convection ovens. I can help fix this problem if you have a built in oven (I don't know if the parts are located in the same place for stand alone ovens). First it is not a FUSE that has blown rather it is the thermostat in the rear of the oven. (Part #4452223) This small part cost about $37 US and after shipping it will cost you about $47. I tried to get an estimate from an electrician as to what they would charge for the part and to come out and fix the oven an the price was about $90 for the part and anywhere between $100 and $170 more for the service call + repair! After a day of frustration I decided to tackle the problem myself.
The very first thing you must do is shut off the circuit breaker to the oven and put a very large sign on the panel that reads DO NOT TOUCH! That is 220 volts to that oven and while most panels have just the oven ont circuit you dont want anyone reactivating that circuit by mistake!
The next part requires a little work. Find the side panel screws (usually located in the oven door) and remove the two panel flanges that cover the 2 or 4 mounting screws that keep the oven in the wall. Now go underneath the oven and find the power junction box, take off the cover and disconnect the wires that run from the oven. Remember which goes where. Next remove the little nut that holds the electical conduit cable to the junction box then loosen the wires. Once this is done you can now slide the oven out and get to the thermostat.
This part requires a little elbow grease. Find a platform or table that fits just under where the stove will slide out and slide the oven on top of the table or whatever for support. In the back of the oven there will be a sheet metal panel that covers the thermostat and other wires, remove the 5 or 6 screws that hold this panel on and put the panel aside. Almost in the middle of the oven's back you will see a little black device with two wires running out of it (one red the other white or yellow). It will have the part number on its front, remove the wire and notice that the thermostat is half red and half white (remember this for the new part will have the same markings) the red wire goes onto the lead coming from the red markings. When you have the new part simply put the new one in (remember: the red side to the red wire), attach it to the back of the oven, replace the sheet metal cover and slide the oven back into place securing it with the screws. Viola! you are done! Turn on the power and then test the oven (I used the broil setting to warm it up then switch to a temperature setting). The entire process took me about an hour and I am NOT a handyman!
For about $50 and a little work you will save yourself from $150 to $250. Not to mention the repairmen won't have a clue as to what the problem is or who will attempt to sell you a new front panel or perform other unnecessary work.
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
We had a quick power outage and when the power came back on it locked our older (1991) Kenmore electric oven model # 40889 / 40881. Went throought the manuel and nothing pertains to this problem. We have turned off the circuit breaker and turned back on, but nothing seems to unlock the door. Any suggestions would be GREAT!!!!!!!
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
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