GFCI wont reset, or, runs for 5 minutes and shuts off
I have a therapurespa PH50015(EST)6100 the GFCI tripped and would not reset. after sitting for a week, i plugged it back in and it worked, ran for 5 minutes and tripped again and wont reset. (overheating maybe?)
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The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.
if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
If the GFCI is tripping, the reset button will not do anything. If it was fine before the electricity shut off, it is possible that while the pump was not running, water got into the inside of the pack, and that is what is causing the GFCI to trip. An electrical surge may have damaged the GFCI, itself. Those are the two things that might be related to the power going out. The most common cause for tripping GFCI's are a heater that has a ground fault. A distant second is a bad GFCI. If it starts to run, then quickly trips, it is almost certainly the heater.
Is the condenser fan running if so is the compressor running? check both of them to make sure there not grounded out. also check the condenser fan motor to make sure the armature is not rusted in place.
#1. DO NOT GET INTO TUB FULL OF WATER WITH A GROUND FAULT. 2. There is a short. You need to get multimeter and start checking each part for current running to ground wire. 3) Power is ON. Connect power without GFCI. 4) Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power. 5) Do not touch anything directly or you will become the ground rod. 6) Ground wire must be present, and bonded back to main panel box. 7) Do not sit or touch directly on cement or bare ground. Do not touch or lean into anything made of metal. 8) Body and parts must be on sheet of plywood, or similar non-conductive dry surface. 9) Test each part with spa, but also test electric line coming from main box. 10) GFCI will also trip with any fault detected on line. So the wire coming to spa may have the fault. 11) Add a new dedicated line from main box to spa.
Either you have a ground fault or the GFCI is toasted. Turn off the power to the GFCI, open the box the GFCI is in and disconnect the output wires, close up the box, re-energize, and try to reset it again. This will tell you which problem you have.
It sounds like a seal has broken and water is getting inside, tripping the GFCI. it may be possible to get a new set of gaskets for the pump, but it is not really an easy thing to do. Three years if it runs all day is quite a lot of hours. You could try a local electric motor shop, and ask for an estimate.
Do you have a model and serial number so i can spec components and a diagram?
The reset is a GFCI electrical or a high limit temperature switch?
If its a GFCI you have a leak or a short or the pump is drawing to many amps likely due to something in the impeller or plumbing restricting flow. Potentially its a shaft seal issue.
How hot is the tub when it trips? Try running it cold and see if it trips. If it doesnt and its still cold its the pump. If its hot and you set it to cold its a stuck relay or contactor or triac and therefore tripping a high limit switch.
If this is a hot tub/spa the pressure switch may be an issue. It shuts down the heat typically and keeps the pumps running.
If a reset switch of any type is tripped to many times it will continue to trip at a lower and lower value.
Just some tips, hope they help. Get back to me with some info.