Question about Maytag Centennial 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity Plus Electric Dryer
The light worked but now switch is limp on door and no light either checked plug seems ok?
Posted by Anonymous on
Electric dryer no start does nothing
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.
CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.
NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.
If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings
Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.
Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.
Posted on Apr 26, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Maytag Dryer quit running
If your not a handyperson, this could be expensive...
a) you didn't tell us if this is a newer electronically controlled dryer, or just the old reliable type... newer types, in my opinion, will generally have more controls fail than the older types, but sometimes something on the older types fail also... to replace the newer stuff will cost lots -- cheaper to buy an ol' reliable...
b) besides checking the lint trap, you should periodically inspect the outside vent to make sure the airflow is good... also, it's always a good thing to take apart the dyer every now and then and clean it out if the dryer has run a lot... in most cases, the dryer would be replaced before it really needs to be cleaned out (I kept mine for many, many years)
c) in the dryer heater duct, there are a number of safety switches -- if for any reason, the dyer air should over heat, it shuts down the dryer -- some are resettable, some are the replaceable type, but both types will be used; unfortunately, even if a resettable switch operates, the replaceable will almost always operate...
d) since it appears nothing works, I suspect the heating element is still probably good, but...
e) if the breaker was not tripped, then the motor is probably OK...
f) I'm not sure, it's been awhile since I've had my dryer torn apart, but I think it will also shutdown if the drum drive belt breaks...
My suggestion is to call a trustworthy repairman, determine the potential costs up front and then decide whether to replace or repair... or call a trusted friend to fix it if they have the knowhow...
Posted on Jul 27, 2008
check your fuses in the dryer their is only one fuse that could shut down the whole dryer like that. Open back panel and get a volt meter and check for continuity on the fuses. HOW? first un plug it then open back then you will see the heating element their are 2 fuses on the heating element take off wires and check those.Then if those are ok look down thier is another fuses its long white with 2 wires comming out of it with a black center that should be your problem check it repair it run it . GOOD LUCK
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
Same thing as other owners above...Dryer is five years old and is in need of a good cleaning of lint build-up. Model no. PYET444AZW.
I put a large load of clothes, which probably should have been spun again, into the dryer. When I returned the clothes were still basically wet, and the light in the dryer would not come on, and nor would the dryer start.
Tested the circuit breaker. OK. Tested the outlet with a tester pen. OK.
So in searching the internet for a solution, I found and read this string. Found the fuse, called my local appliance parts store and bought a thermal fuse kit for CDN$48 (incl sales tax). Kit came with three fuses.
Just opening the top of the dryer was a chore for a complete novice. However, the entire top is hinged at the back -- so at the front of the machine, just gently poked a slot screwdriver in the gap ringing the sides near the top, twist screwdriver and lift. Big fuse is easily accessible at the top near the back of the drum. It's a round thing about the size of a quarter screwed into a metal frame with two crimped-on wires coming out the top. One screw to removed the frame. Then detached the crimped-on wires, and removed the fuse from the frame with two more screws. You will need a smaller size ratchet or nut-driver.
While you have it apart you might as well change the second nickel-size fuse, too, although it is more of a pain.
You have to remove the coiled elements, which are basically just big springs. They come out with one screw on the right and a little finesse. The second fuse sits on the right-hand side of the metal box surrounding the coiled element. The screw for the coil also held the frame for the fuse in place, but the frame will still be secured to the box with a couple of small tongues. So you will still need to kind of lift and pull up on the frame housing the fuse. It requires some patience and finesse. Remove the crimped-on wires, and change the fuse.
Of the two smaller replacement fuses that came with the kit, there was one marked for a gas dryer and another for electric. (The big fuse was good for both.)
Then start putting it all back together. Took me two hours in all. But now that I have done it once, it would hopefully take me only 30 mins. now.
Finally, my replacement instructions suggested cleaning out your machine and removing the lint and other burdens which probably overloaded the fuse in the first place. So I bought one of those specialized lint brushes to clean out the trap and the exhaust hose and vent.
Posted on Mar 20, 2010
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