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I HAVE REPLACE THE DOOR LATCH AND MASTER CONTROL. I AM STILL GETTING CLICKING

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  • tom cassidy
    tom cassidy Apr 18, 2015

    Hi Julie Doleys, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 5,323 Answers

LID LOCK LIGHT STAYS ON NO START:

Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor.

MACHINES SAIDS SENSING
When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer
will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been
added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.

NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.
This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor.

Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault.

A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel.

The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective

The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in





I HAVE REPLACE THE DOOR LATCH AND MASTER CONTROL.  - replace-door-latch-master-control-am-fgv1ctnzjgewe3hu2qpqylbk-3-0.jpg





replace-door-latch-master-control-am-fgv1ctnzjgewe3hu2qpqylbk-3-I HAVE REPLACE THE DOOR LATCH AND MASTER CONTROL.  - replace-door-latch-master-control-am-fgv1ctnzjgewe3hu2qpqylbk-3-14.jpgoads/images/replace-door-latch-master-control-am-fgv1ctnzjgewe3hu2qpqylbk-3-14.jpg

Posted on May 08, 2015

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Neff H7871 oven door does not stay closed. Catches do not appear to be working


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E1 F5 code after self clean cycle. its been 12 hours and wont unlock and still says code


Hi.

E1 and F5 (F5-E1) means that the Self clean latch will not lock. The problem is usually fixed replacing the door latch. If the door latch is working, check wiring to door latch. The control module causing the error is not very common but possible. If the latch and wiring are OK, check control board.

Here troubleshooting from manual:

1. If door latched:

1. Disconnect power from unit.
2. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
3. Replace door switch.
4. Re-apply power.
5. Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.

2. If door not latched:

1. Disconnect power from unit.
2. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
3. Repeat steps A and B for door switch.

3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective.
4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective.
5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.

Here parts and diagrams: arrow_link.gif KERC507EAL1

Regards.

Ginko

Jun 18, 2011 | KitchenAid KERC507 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

I need information on how to replace (or service) the door latch mechanism on my merc. I have realigned the door (and realigned the striker rod) and it will still not close. The latching system does not...


Removal
  1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
  1. Remove front door trim panel (23942) and watershield from front door (20124).
  1. Mark the location of the bolt retaining front door glass run front retainer (21572). Remove the bolt.
  1. Check all rod connections against the appropriate illustration. Correct any disconnected or loose connections and check operation before replacing parts.
  1. Remove power door lock actuator (218A42).
  1. Disconnect the rods from the front door latch (21812). The front door latch remote control link (21940) and the latch-to-lock cylinder rod cannot be removed at this time because of the rod's end configuration. Remove wiring from clip on front door latch shield.
  1. Remove front door latch control cylinder rod (22134) from the door lock cylinder (21985).
  1. Remove front door latch remote control and link (21818).
  1. Remove the front door latch retaining screws. Disconnect the door open warning lamp switch (14018) if so equipped. Remove the front door latch from the front door.
  1. NOTE: Do not damage anti-theft shield.
    Remove anti-theft shield from the front door latch.
  1. Remove front door latch remote control link, front door latch control cylinder rods and door open warning lamp switches from front door latch where applicable.
Installation
  1. Follow removal procedure in reverse order.
  1. Tighten front door latch retaining screws 4-8 Nm (36-70 lb-in).


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Item Description 1 Front Door Latch Control Cylinder Rod 2 Front Door Latch Remote Control Link 3 Bushing 4 Door Latch Shield 5 Power Door Lock Actuator 6 Front Door Latch Control Cylinder Rod 7 Front Door Latch 8 Latch (1 Req'd) 9 Screws (2 Req'd)

Feb 13, 2011 | 1997 Mercury Cougar XR7

1 Answer

When trying to use self cleaning on the oven we are getting an E1 F5 code....


F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock 1. If door latched:
  1. Disconnect power from unit.
  2. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
  3. Replace door switch.
  4. Re-apply power.
  5. Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
2. If door not latched:
  1. Disconnect power from unit.
  2. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
  3. Repeat steps A and B for door switch.
3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective.
4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective.
5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.

Sep 18, 2010 | Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Trying to remove door latch on 1995 thunderbird. Car has power locks.


inside or outside latch? please rate

Section 01-14A: Handles, Locks, Latches and Mechanisms 1995 Thunderbird, Cougar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Latch, Door Removal and Installation
  1. Remove front door trim panel (23942) and watershield from front door (20124). Refer to Section 01-05 .
  1. Mark the location of the bolt retaining front door glass run front retainer (21572). Remove the bolt.
  1. Check all rod connections against the appropriate illustration. Correct any disconnected or loose connections and check operation before replacing parts.
  1. Remove power door lock actuator (218A42).
  1. Disconnect the rods from the front door latch (21812) . The front door latch remote control link (21940) and the latch-to-lock cylinder rod cannot be removed because of the rod's end configuration. Remove wiring from clip on front door latch shield.
  1. Remove front door latch control cylinder rod (22134) from the door lock cylinder (21985).
  1. Remove front door latch remote control and link (21818).
  1. Remove the front door latch retaining screws. Disconnect the door open warning lamp switch (14018) , if so equipped. Remove the front door latch from the front door .
  1. NOTE: Do not damage anti-theft shield.
    Remove anti-theft shield from the front door latch .
  1. Remove front door latch remote control link , front door latch control cylinder rods , and door open warning lamp switches from front door latch , where applicable.
  1. To install, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten front door latch retaining screws 4-8 Nm (36-70 lb-in).
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Item Part Number Description 1 21852 Front Door Latch Push Button Rod 2 21940 Front Door Latch Remote Control Link 3 386656-S Bushing 4 21978 Door Latch Shield 5 218A42 Power Door Lock Actuator 6 22134 Front Door Latch Control Cylinder Rod 7 21812 Front Door Latch
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Remote Control Assembly Door Latch
Removal and Installation
  1. Remove front door trim panel (23942) and watershield. Refer to Section 01-05 .
  1. Remove screw and washer assembly retaining front door latch remote control and link (21818) to front door (20124) .
  1. Rotate front door latch remote control and link to remove from front door latch remote control link (21940) .
  1. To install, reverse Removal procedure.

Sep 27, 2009 | 1995 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

Lsq9010pw2 washing machine won't do anything tried giggling master switch


Hi, check the following trouble spots below. you will find the issue in one or, all the areas stated.

1. No power to the washer Make sure there's power getting to the washer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power. Sometimes the power cord disconnects at the washer, if this is the case, the wiring must be repaired or replaced.
2. Lid switch/door latch The washing machine may not function if the lid switch or door latch mechanism is defective. The switch is usually located near the door. Replace if found defective.

**If you are getting power to the washer and, setp 1 and 2 check out ok, replace the timer control or control Board and start switch as well.(You can test the continuity or, resistance level of the Lid/door swicth with a multimeter(ohm).

Aug 27, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Oven wont come on -I get E1 F5 on display.


Self clean latch will not lock

If door not latched:

A. Disconnect power from unit.
B. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
C. Repeat steps A and B for door switch.

3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective.
4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective.
5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.

Jul 04, 2009 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

Rear side windows


This may be just a case of inadvertently hitting the window lock out n th driver door window switch by mistake. Check that first. Here's some background on window operation

Principles of Operation
The driver power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the master window/door lock/unlock switch (and its integrated "auto down" module). Power is supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is opened.
The driver power window regulator motor is a reversible motor that is operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window, and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
The passenger power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the passenger power window switch and can also be controlled by the master window/door lock/unlock switch. Power is supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is opened.
The passenger power window regulator motor is a reversible motor, which is operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window, and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
The power rear quarter glass is also directly controlled by the master window/door lock/unlock switch. The power rear quarter glass power latches also utilize reversible motors. The power rear quarter glass power latches are operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to open the window, and then reversing polarity on those same leads to close the window.
Symptom Chart Condition Possible Sources Action
  • All windows are inoperative
  • BJB Fuse:
    • F20.
  • Circuit.
  • Power window relay.
  • Front door power window switch.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test A .
  • Single power window is inoperative
  • Front door power window switch.
  • Front door power window regulator.
  • Circuit.
  • Driver door power window switch.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test B .
  • Vent power window is inoperative — quarter window glass power latch
  • Circuit.
  • Quarter window glass switch.
  • Quarter window glass power latch.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test C .
  • The one touch down feature is inoperative
  • Master window regulator and door lock switch.
  • INSTALL a new master window/door lock/unlock switch. REFER to Switch—Master Window Door Lock/Unlock .
  • The back window will not defrost
  • CJB Fuses:
    • F30 (10A).
    • F32 (20A).
    • F34 (20A).
  • BJB Fuse:
    • F27 (45A)
  • Circuit.
  • Heated back window switch.
  • SEC/timer module.
  • Rear window defrost relay.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test D .
  • The back window defrost will not shut off automatically
  • SEC/timer module.
  • Circuit.
  • Rear window defrost relay.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test E .

Jan 28, 2009 | 1999 Mercury Villager

3 Answers

Error code


Fdl is a door latch error.  What it means is that the Central Control Unit (CCU), which is the main computer, has lost communications with the door latch.  If you can't hear the latch clicking when you try to start a wash, chances are the door latch is broken.  Sometimes they will click,  but the internal latching mechanism may be damaged.  If the door latch fails to close, the washer will not begin a cycle.  If you provide me with your model number (located along the inside of the door) I can get a part number, price and where you can get a replacement.  I can also give you step-by-step instructions on how to replace the latch.  This is a fairly simple problem that the do-it-yoursefler can accomplish with a little guidance.  Let me know.

Nov 01, 2007 | Kenmore 45981 Washer

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