2007mitsubishi eclipse spider just put in clutch kit no air in lines I have no gears I put it in first gear motor off and can push the car back and forth

Does it feel like you have good pedal pressure? Might try bleeding clutch, if you have good pressure its possible the clutch parts are wrong. Or were installed wrong, sorry

how much was taken off flywheel ? was there a shim between crank and flywheel ? did you make sure spline count on clutch plate matched spline count and diameter on input shaft to transmission

Sounds possible you have the friction plate in backwards and there is no clearance. Retrace your steps and check the clutch operating mechanism, then any gear linkage. With the clutch centre plate, the raised part of the spring carrier is usually facing outwards toward the pressure plate fingers.

you may have a air bubble in slave system. look at slave, if tilted up park on hill pump clutch few times .if that does not fix . get a baby nose cleaner, push clutch down put cleaner in hole in botton of slave suck fuild out of hole ,do it again with pedal up, it should grab air bubble and remove it. good luck let me know what works.

its not that big of a job block your front wheels raise the rear end and support with two jack stands remove your tires drain your rear differential and remove the differential cover remove the 10mm bolt that holds the stud in place when you remove the stud the side gears will fall out giving you room to push the axles forward so you can remove the retainers once the retainer is removed you can remove the axle just watch the spider gear doesn't fall out of the differential do the same for the other axle once the axles are removed use a seal puller to remove the old seals and a seal installer tool to press the new ones in place both tools are available at any local auto parts jobber. After installing the new seals put some white lithium grease in the seal and install the axles line the axle with your spider gear and push all the way forward then install your retainer and pull the axle back seating the retainer do the same with the other axle after that is done install one side gear push you stud in place and line it up with the other side gear be very careful if there are shims on any of the gears keep them with that gear and make sure they go back in the place they came from try to mark them with a paint marker before removing. After installing the stud with the gears install your bolt I would use lock tight blue on the bolt and clean the rear cover put your permatex blue on the cover, bolt it up and fill the rear differential with quality 85w90 gear oil make sure if your vehicle calls for a friction modifier add that to the mix if you don't you will get allot of chatter possibly damage to the clutch pack and don't believe lube adds when they say modifier not needed if you use there lube That is a Royal mistake I replaced all the fluids with the brand boasting that's all you need and in one weeks time my rear clutch pack was chattering like a kid out in the cold I then added the friction modifier and problem solved it went away, Your done good luck and God Bless

Eric, how are you confirming whether or not the car goes into gear if you shift gears without the engine running? One way would be to put it in 1st and see if you can push the car. If you can't, it is in gear.

Another option is to roll the car slightly forward or backward (engine off) while trying to put the car in gear. Once it is in gear, then the car shouldn't move any further. However, if it goes into gear, DO NOT start the car without taking it back out of gear.

The clutch is much more likely to be the problem than the transmission.

If the clutch fluid ever ran dry, then the clutch hydraulics will need to be bled of air. Otherwise, the problem could be the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder or throwout bearing. Since you didn't report the clutch slipping (e.g. engine revving without accelerating when in gear) it is likely not the clutch disks themselves.

check that when you let the clutch out , that the lever is in fact pushing the slave cylinder rod back
indicates that the master cylinder has a blocked compensating port which is making the clutch slip or not engage

sounds like the clutch has corroded somewhat.
does it feel like the clutch has some pressure?
try putting it in gear, depress the clutch, and then see if it will start in gear( be carefull it may jump forward)
this might free the clutch.
also the clutch fluid may have drained or have an air bubble, depressing the clutch many times quickly may self bleed the air out, or bleed some new fluid through it. make sure to top up the fluid.

The cross-shaft goes in so that the hole in it lines up with the bolt hole in the carrier. Place one spider gear in contact with the side gears on one side and the other on the opposite side, one at the top, one at the bottom. Rotate the gears into place. before pushing the pin through, put your finger inside each bore and make sure that the spider gear shims are also aligned so the shaft can pass through without interference. then after it's in, align the bolt hole and replace it. Don't forget to put the axle clip back before putting the pin in.

I accidentally rotated the spider gears out when putting a new axle seal on a 04' F-150. I didn't have the tool to compress the clutch packs so I removed the differential carrier and took it and the spider gears down to the local Ford dealership and they put them back in for $20.