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Could be a shorted output rectifier (diode). This would cause a lot of current pull, and therefore voltage drop (fan slowing down). The electrolytic capacitors are for dc voltage, and will blow with wrong polarity, which means ac voltage would be the wrong polarity half the time.
I had check the spark at sparkplug because the crank and cam sensor send a signal to the computer who trigger the coil driver and injector driver. check voltage at injector wire and ground. One wire on each injectorshould have 12volt ignition on. The computer trigger the ground. For the spark use a SST225 it is cheep
Try to check the base of the horizontal output if have a signal from the chroma or jungle i.c it should have 5-7vac to trigger the high voltage.If no voltage try to hang it and check again if the voltage appear while you hang it,your ply-back got partially defects replace it with the same type and ratings. Next,if you already hang the base of h-out and still no voltage on it and the chroma i.c is new.Trace the line from the base of h-out to the chroma/jungle i.c.Test the parts that pass through that line such as open/change value resistors.
I hope this solution will be helpful.Thank you I'm very glad to share my idea.Good luck.
yes you can. at resistor take of connector to it. with key to on and fan on. check for voltage to resistor. if good voltage then resistor is bad. if no power in wire to resistor, then check for a bad fuse or relay in fuse box. have a good day !!!
Looking over the schematic I see all sorts of poor design. The reverb is driven by IC TL072 chip and the output is received by the same.
This chip is supplied with +/- 15.5 volts UNREGULATED which is stupid! If you get a power surge, the IC will be destroyed. Myself I would put at least a shunt Zener regulator on these voltages. Use a 100 ohm resistor in series and Zeners to ground for both the plus an minus 15.5 lines.
First thing check those 15.5 volt... the plus is on C23 pos term and the neg is on C24 neg term.
They have a 1 meg resistor to ground from pin 3 of the chip to bias the + input of the chip. This is TOO big as the input leakage current can be too much. I would reduce this resistor to 220K and increase C22 to 0.0047 mfd.
Check the DC voltage at pin 1 of the chip (IC1). It should be VERY near zero.
The output buffer for the reverb has better design. Check for zero volts or very near it on pin 7 of the chip. Be careful not to short to pin 7 which is pos 15.5.
If either of the above tests show a voltage over 0.5 volts from ground, replace the TL072 chip as it is likely fried by power surge..
Since there is high voltage (320 volts) use great caution when working on this amp.
The click you hear is most likely the speaker protection circuit relay due to the protection circuits being triggered. In the event of a dc voltage appearing across the speakers the protection circuit isolates the the speaker terminals from the output stage.
Dry joints on the relay is not uncommon and causes false triggering. Check both pos' and neg' supplies are present at the output transistors / ic. Connect a dc volt meter across the speaker output terminals if a voltage of more than a few millivolts appears just before relay clicks then check the ouput stage for dry joints, leaky transistors and resistors having increased in value.
The 68 represents the capacitance of the capacitor, if it says 68 uf this is microfarads if it says pf then its means 68 picofarads. The K represents the DC working voltage limit, Then K means thousands so the working voltage limit for this capacitor is 35 thousand Volts.
another problem that you want to check with the convergence board when
replacing amp I/C's is to check the resistance of the resistors next to
and around I/C's as I also had 2 that were very high resistance,like
3.8 meg-ohm,they were resistors rk-50 and rk-54 located on board.They
should have been 1.4 ohm and 3.0 ohm,not 3.8 meg-ohm. did you use the same IC's numbers and did you get OME part and not generic?