Question about GE Dryers
Posted by Anonymous on
As a repair technician, just came across this crazy situation with GE / Hot Point / Moffat machines several times. It is all made by GE corporation.
The Dryer is not starting because your cycle selector knob is broken inside and it is just turning without turning the timer selector.
GE corporation machines are good. But those damn chinese plastic knobs break from inside. I have driven 50 km to find out the knob is broken. I had to charge the poor customer.
Posted on Apr 25, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Based on the information that you provided, if you open the door in mid-cycle and the motor shuts off, but the element stays on, this will stop the air flow through the dryer and the element. The element temperature will rise drastically because it is not being cooled. Subsequently, to prevent a fire, the thermal fuse will open, shutting the element, and in some cases the motor, down.
A heating element gets its power from the timer, through the cycling thermostat(s),and to 1 side of the element.
When the motor starts, power is passed through the centrifugal switch in the motor, through the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal fuse to the other side of the element.
There is no ground wiring involved in the heat side of the dryer.
1. An element can stay on because it has broken and fell against the metal tube where it picks up a ground. Solution is to replace the element.
2. The centrifugal switch mounted on or in the motor can fail to open when the motor stops and allow current to flow through it
until the points in the timer open up, breaking the circuit.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
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Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jun 23, 2008
Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
I know this might sound stupid but try this. Find your fuse box, locate the breaker that runs your dryer. Flip it off and then back on. If i'm correct, it will work. Everything on your dryer works off of one leg of the 220v. The other leg goes to the other side of the element. If you have a meter. check for 220v at the plug. Everything you listed is what makes the dryer heat other than the thermostats. Check the cycling thermostats like you did the other pieces. They look like the thermal cut off. They have two wires and they are round.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
SOURCE: blowing high limit fuse
My dryer stopped working, using a multimeter I determined that the thermal fuse was open. I unclogged all the ducts then ordered a high limit thermal kit. After changing the fuse, it blew-up on the first cycle. It turns out that even though the high limit checked ok, it was defective. After changing both the fuse and the thermostat(included in the kit $25), the dryer worked correctly.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
Hi and welcome to FixYa. You should check the dryer vent ducting inside and outside the dryer for restrictions / clogs to include the vent flapper. Poor air flow through the dryer will cause hot spots. If the blower is slipping on the motor shaft this too can cause poor air flow.
When you change the heating element AGAIN... break out the crevice tool and de-lint everything you can access. Also pull out the lint filter and wash it with white vinegar and water then soap and water. Fabric softener sheets material builds up on lint filters. It looks clean but air will not pass through the lint filter.
I think once you get it all ceaned up including all of the ducting to and through the outside wall it will work normally with no problems. I do not think at this time that you have an electrical problem with the outlet supply.
There is one more thing to check and that is the high limit thermostat. It could be STUCK. It will most likely be labeled L180 or L190. That thermostat is suposed to open at either 180 deg or 190 Deg depending on which one is installed. If it does not open then you will keep cooking your elements. We test them with a match and an Ohm Meter. Match under the removed thermostat CLICK. Thermostat opens (no resistance)
Wish ya the best.
Thanks for using FixYa.
If anything in the future crops up with this same issue.
Posted on Apr 10, 2010
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