Question about Maytag Refrigerators
I know there is a specific button pushing sequence performed that will allow us to enter/test the defrost system. That is what I am in need of. The type of control board it uses is a W10503278. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Lakeland Appliance: According to FixYa.com Jenny Dutot said: "Dear jorge, I had the same problem when my refrigerator was broken. You need to re-program the control panel as follows: 1. First you need the Program Code for your fridge. It is on the plate on the inside of your fridge, on the same plate that has your Model # and Serial # on it. 2. Programming is done with the refrigerator doors open. 3. Press and hold the Door Alarm keypad on the control panel. 4. Then press and hold the Freezer Temperature Down keypad. 5. Then release the Door Alarm keypad and wait 3 seconds. 6. The control pad will then display PE to indicate it's in programming mode. 7. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature down keypad once more. 8. The control panel will display the current program code. It should be the same one that I asked you to find in Step 1. 9. If the program code is the correct one, exit the programming mode by closing the refrigerator doors. 10. If the program code is not the correct one for your refrigerator, press the Refrigerator Temperature Up or Down to change the value with each keypress. 11. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature Up or Down to select the next digit. 12. Once the desired program code is displayed, press and hold the Freezer Temperature down keypad until the program code begins flashing, indicating that it's been saved. 13. Again, when you're done, exiting the program mode is done by closing the refrigerator doors. Hope this helps alot of people out there. I'm not sure what the problem is at Maytag, but they're extremely slow in getting parts shipped for their units. The local Maytag repair people have indicated to me that they are seeing an overwhelming number of Maytag refrigerators needing repairs that are around the one year age range. They say the quality of the new units is terrible. "
Posted on May 13, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you jumped the defrost board and it went into defrost then that board is bad. I assume by "freezes up" you are talking about the evaporator is frosting up? That defrost board puts it into defrost automatically. If you have to jump it to get it go into defrost then the board is not doing its job.
Posted on Nov 16, 2007
There is no forced defrost entry for your refrig. Yours has a ADC board in the upper right corner of the control area in the refrig section. The only way to initate defrost is jump the terminals on the board. Look at the wiring diagram closely before making the jump. The board energizes the heater thru the neutral side so make sure you dont jump line to this. I believe you jump L2 to Def
Posted on Dec 02, 2007
SOURCE: Auto defrost not working
a manual defrost will help in the sense that it will healp save your food now if you dont mind spending a little cash may i suggest you go buy a eurika 350 hand held steamer its great for defrosting and about 1000 other thuings around your house you canget it at lowes places like that after defrosting the unit will freeze again in about two to three days depending on how many times you open your door reply to this thered with the appox age of your unit and i can better advise from there some times as in the case of a stuck theroma stat if seen it fix them but i wouldnt count on it hold my rating tii we are done
Posted on Jan 19, 2008
YES see if you have 12 volts dc at the evaperator motor if you do then the motor is bad if you do not then the mother board is bad and ge recomends in this case to also change the fan motor at the same time
Posted on Apr 17, 2008
If one coil was burnt out and you replaced the heaters and defrost terminator switch I would recheck the continuity through the defrost heaters. You can do this with an Ohm meter with the refrigerator unplugged. If you had an open coil in one of the heaters you did not have to replace the thermo disk. If you have a complete circuit through the heaters try using the old thermo disk. If you have a meter you can check the voltage from the heater connection on one side to the inlet side of the thermo disk with the refrigerator running in the defrost mode. You should read 115-125 Volts on the meter. This reading tells you that the defrost timer is supplying power to the heater circuit.
Posted on Apr 30, 2008
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