Question about Hotpoint Refrigerators

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I have a Hotpoint fridge and freezer its not getting cold freezer freezes and thaws and referred help

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  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Apr 21, 2015

    Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

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  • Hotpoint Master
  • 5,323 Answers

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ





Posted on Apr 21, 2015

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Possible problems are a bad evaporator fan motor or a defrost problem. If the back panel in the freezer is frosted up then it is a defrost problem. If no frost listen for the fan in the freezer. If you don't hear it then it may be the problem. Not circulating the cold air.

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22yooper
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SOURCE: ffa70 hotpoint fridge freezer

Adjust the temperature control for the freezer to a normal setting. Fast freeze is only for when new products are put in that need to be frozen. This locks the system into a continuous run mode and could be responsible for the freezing condition in the refrigerator section. Check the temperatures with a thermometer as the sensor for the freezer temperature could be bad causing the light to come on.

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SOURCE: FREEZER IS COLD BUT NOT FREEZING WELL,FRIDGE IS NOT AS COLD AS IT SHOULD BE

Your freezer fan has stopped working or jammed. It's also possible that your defrost timer has stopped working and that the airways in the freezer are clogged with ice and the air can't circulate to the fridge. One of the two. Good Luck!!

barneyluc

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

WeListen2You
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SOURCE: Hotpoint Fridge freezing the food.

thermostat is buried behind the walls of that unit, are you ready to run this one..takes quite a bit of time..but
will get the item, if you can supply the actual serial number from inside or back of that unit..

Posted on Oct 26, 2008

woodchuck789
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SOURCE: fridge of my Hotpoint FFA90 fridge-freezer freezes

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.

Posted on Mar 11, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks, I have checked that, but the vent at the bottom of the fridge section is a rigid plastic grill, which doesn't, nor looks like it should move. "

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Is this a common problem?


THATS BECAUSE IN ORDER TO CONTROL BOTH TEMPS IT USES THE HELP FROM THE FREEZER AND FRIDGE THERMISTORS AND THE COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT. A BAD DOOR SEAL OR SEALS CAN ALSO CAUSE SOMEWHAT SAME ISSUE? ALSO NEED TO CHECK UR DAMPER CONTROL MAKE SURE ITS WORKING CORRECTLY.

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A fridge makes cold air in the freezer only and blows it into the fridge throu a little air door with a small fan, one of your temerature adjustments will open and close this little door and the other ajustment (the thrmostate) will turn on and off the compressor at what ever temperature you have it set for. if the little door is closed to much the cold air can not get into the fridge fast enough to make the temperature cold enough to turn of the thermostate. This will cause items to freeze near the air door as the air comming out of it will be something like -20C. to fix this it sometimes helps to open this little door more... something like "freezer temp warmer" and also to turn the "fridge temp warmer". if that does not do it, then the thermostate may be faulty, to test it slowly turn it down untill the fridge turns off, if it only turns off at the off position, replace it. also one last thing , sometimes the airdoor can frost up and restrict the air from blowing into the fridge, so you can unplug the fridge and leave the doors open for the weekend and let everything thaw out. then set all the controls for normal and plug back in. Make sure you do not leave the unit plugged in or sometimes the little door light can get so hot it may melt the plastic lining in the fridge.

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You fridge has a broken defrost controller or a broken heating element.

Go to Roper online to find your parts and then see if you can buy them either at applianceparts.com or ebay. These are good cheap ways to get your stuff sent directly to you!

Then, unplug the fridge, thaw it out. And while its unpowered and thawing replace the two parts. Refer to your units parts diagram for parts locations. The controller should just be hiding down underneath or in back and the defroster heating element is usually under the freezer.

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