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Water leaks out near water inlet under the cabinet during spin cycle. Could it be a clamp or the pump or something else?

Kenmore Elite 110.23032101

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 1,585 Answers

Could b pump or any of the hoeses inside or door boot

Posted on Apr 16, 2015

Testimonial: "Is a door boot something for a front loader? Mine is a top load."

  • 1 more comment 
  • tom cassidy
    tom cassidy Apr 16, 2015

    yes door boot only on front loader probly pump

  • Cathy B
    Cathy B Apr 17, 2015

    Thank you Tom! I ordered a Water Inlet Pump today, it also comes with Motor Coupler and Agitator Dogs. I guess I'll know more about my washer than I ever wanted after this.

  • tom cassidy
    tom cassidy Apr 17, 2015

    keep it up and ule answer all the qwestions good luck cathy b

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Kenmore dishwasher water inlet valve replacement


Turn off power to dishwasher at the breaker or fuse panel.Turn off water supply usually found under sink. Remove the front kick panel and remove water supply line from the valve,remove clamp to hose on dishwasher and remove hose. Remove electrical connectors from the inlet valve and remove screws holding valve to cabinet . Reverse steps to install. Slowly turn on water and listen and look for leaks if all is well turn on the power and start washing.

Mar 21, 2014 | Kenmore Elite 24" Built-In Dishwasher with...

1 Answer

Water leak during spin cycle kenmore elite model 110.2494


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Aug 17, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Elite 45986 Front Load Washer: My 2002 Kenmore elite front load washer (stackable...


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

May 18, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

When the washer drains it goes on the floor


The water pump recirculates water during the wash cycle and pumps it out for the spin cycle. Some washers use the recirculation to mix and distribute add-ins like bleach or fabric softener. In some models the spin cycle starts while the water is still in the tub; others drain first before the spin cycle starts.

For the the initial filling of the tub, the pump is not involved. Filling the tub is the job of the water inlet valve. The rinse cycle is also done with fresh water supplied by the inlet valve, although the water pump may be running simultaneously to remove the water while it is being added.

There are two types of pumps; direct drive and belt drive. The direct drive is mounted directly to the motor, the belt drive is mounted to the chassis. The direct drive style can be opened for complete inspection while belt drive models may or may not be designed to be opened. You can however, still remove the hoses and inspect the ports for a blockage or loose connections that may be causing a leak. Inspecting the pump is fairly easy to do, but you will most likely have to open the washer's cabinet.

Typically one of three problems occur with the pump. The first is a blockage in the pump, often from small items like a sock. The second possibility is that the impeller blades become broken or worn down and cannot move water efficiently. Next, in belt drive models, if the belt is loose or broken it does not turn the pump. Finally, Your pump may leak if there is a loose hose or cracked pump housing.In this case, it must be replaced.

Locate the pump, it will have two, three or four hoses. Label each hose and where it connects. The hoses should each have a wire clamp or a hose clamp with a screw. Pinch the wire tabs together with pliers and wiggle the clamp farther up the hose. Screw style hose clamps are simply loosened by turning the screw, then slide the clamp up the hose. Now remove the hose from the port.

Direct drive pumps have metal clips that hold the cover plate unto the pump assembly. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Pull off the pump's impeller unit and inspect for damage.

Belt drive pumps vary and may or may not be designed to open for repair. Examine the pump to determine whether it can be opened. If it cannot be opened, look into the ports for any blockage.

If there are no blockages, the actual leak may be in a damaged hose or pump housing may be compromised. check all hoses for good connections and good hose integrity. if the hoses are not leaking, replace the pump.

Dec 24, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

2 Answers

Water under the washer


Hello. The problem is most likely your house drain behind the machine. Look behind your machine and you will see where the machine's drain line enters your plumbing stand pipe. Sometimes, the force of the new machines is so strong that the water actually is forced up and out of the stand pipe. If this is what is happening then you will have to have that stand pipe and the trap below it snaked as it may have accumulated lint over the years. Once that trap is clean the water should drain out without backing up.
If the water isn't backing up there during the drain cycle call the store and tell them to come and replace your new machine with one that doesn't leak.

Nov 23, 2009 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

My Maytag washer is leaking during fill up. The hoses are fine. The leak is coming from under the washer.


The water pump recirculates water during the wash cycle and pumps it out for the spin cycle. Some washers use the recirculation to mix and distribute add-ins like bleach or fabric softener. In some models the spin cycle starts while the water is still in the tub; others drain first before the spin cycle starts.

For the the initial filling of the tub, the pump is not involved. Filling the tub is the job of the water inlet valve. The rinse cycle is also done with fresh water supplied by the inlet valve, although the water pump may be running simultaneously to remove the water while it is being added.

There are two types of pumps; direct drive and belt drive. The direct drive is mounted directly to the motor, the belt drive is mounted to the chassis. The direct drive style can be opened for complete inspection while belt drive models may or may not be designed to be opened. You can however, still remove the hoses and inspect the ports for a blockage or loose connections that may be causing a leak. Inspecting the pump is fairly easy to do, but you will most likely have to open the washer's cabinet.

Typically one of three problems occur with the pump. The first is a blockage in the pump, often from small items like a sock. The second possibility is that the impeller blades become broken or worn down and cannot move water efficiently. Next, in belt drive models, if the belt is loose or broken it does not turn the pump. Finally, Your pump may leak if there is a loose hose or cracked pump housing.In this case, it must be replaced.

Locate the pump, it will have two, three or four hoses. Label each hose and where it connects. The hoses should each have a wire clamp or a hose clamp with a screw. Pinch the wire tabs together with pliers and wiggle the clamp farther up the hose. Screw style hose clamps are simply loosened by turning the screw, then slide the clamp up the hose. Now remove the hose from the port.

Direct drive pumps have metal clips that hold the cover plate unto the pump assembly. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Pull off the pump's impeller unit and inspect for damage.

Belt drive pumps vary and may or may not be designed to open for repair. Examine the pump to determine whether it can be opened. If it cannot be opened, look into the ports for any blockage.

If there are no blockages, the actual leak may be in a damaged hose or pump housing may be compromised. check all hoses for good connections and good hose integrity. if the hoses are not leaking, replace the pump.

Oct 28, 2009 | Maytag MAT13MN Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Leaks during spin cylcle is it possibly the waterpump?


The water pump recirculates water during the wash cycle and pumps it out for the spin cycle. Some washers use the recirculation to mix and distribute add-ins like bleach or fabric softener. In some models the spin cycle starts while the water is still in the tub; others drain first before the spin cycle starts.

For the the initial filling of the tub, the pump is not involved. Filling the tub is the job of the water inlet valve. The rinse cycle is also done with fresh water supplied by the inlet valve, although the water pump may be running simultaneously to remove the water while it is being added.

There are two types of pumps; direct drive and belt drive. The direct drive is mounted directly to the motor, the belt drive is mounted to the chassis. The direct drive style can be opened for complete inspection while belt drive models may or may not be designed to be opened. You can however, still remove the hoses and inspect the ports for a blockage or loose connections that may be causing a leak. Inspecting the pump is fairly easy to do, but you will most likely have to open the washer's cabinet.

Typically one of three problems occur with the pump. The first is a blockage in the pump, often from small items like a sock. The second possibility is that the impeller blades become broken or worn down and cannot move water efficiently. Next, in belt drive models, if the belt is loose or broken it does not turn the pump. Finally, Your pump may leak if there is a loose hose or cracked pump housing.In this case, it must be replaced.

Locate the pump, it will have two, three or four hoses. Label each hose and where it connects. The hoses should each have a wire clamp or a hose clamp with a screw. Pinch the wire tabs together with pliers and wiggle the clamp farther up the hose. Screw style hose clamps are simply loosened by turning the screw, then slide the clamp up the hose. Now remove the hose from the port.

Direct drive pumps have metal clips that hold the cover plate unto the pump assembly. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Pull off the pump's impeller unit and inspect for damage.

Belt drive pumps vary and may or may not be designed to open for repair. Examine the pump to determine whether it can be opened. If it cannot be opened, look into the ports for any blockage.

If there are no blockages, the actual leak may be in a damaged hose or pump housing may be compromised. check all hoses for good connections and good hose integrity. if the hoses are not leaking, replace the pump.

Aug 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Rip in the rubber seal on my Kenmore Elite Quite Pak4 HE3plus..


you can get new seal at  www.repairclinic.com Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

May 06, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore elite washer leaks water in spin cycle


You need to replace your pump. Make sure you have the washer either on something that will absorb water, or fix it outside/garage. Because these pumps hold extra water and that is why it is not recommended to keep them outside to do laundry in colder climates. The water can freeze in the pump and wreck it. Good luck. They actually are pretty easy to replace.

Apr 26, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

2 Answers

Leaks


to jim, you may want to check the water pump closer, sometimes the water pump will leak a little during a cycle and the water will leak somewhere on the floor, not necessarily near the water pump.
to the second post (guest), it sounds like you have a bad water valve. the valve is not closing properly and causing water to leak thru.

Jun 20, 2008 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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