Question about Lincoln Industrial PowerLuber 18 Volt Grease Gun - 14.5 in. x 4.25 in

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Can I remove the ball check on front side of my gun, I have and seems like it won't push grease

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The short answer is no! The check ball plays an important role in the proper operation of the grease gun. What prompted you to remove the check ball in the first place? If you have grease coming out of the relief valve you have a different problem entirely. If this is the case just let me know and I can guide you through it!

Posted on May 01, 2015


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1 Answer

Have a squeezing in the front left tire only when turning left and pushing the gas in a 95 ford escort

your front suspension has ball joints which have a lubrication adapter that takes ball bearing grease. you need a grease gun. better to take it to a shade tree mechanic and let him grease all the front end joints. get a quote on the cost first.

Mar 08, 2014 | 2003 Ford Taurus

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RN46-1 Piston won't retract.

It sounds like the issue would still be with the driver O-ring, but it could also be with the O-ring or the ball inside the trigger valve. You could try taking the pin the hold the trigger off, and removing the valve to check the o-ring inside. They don't sell the o-ring or ball separately for Bostich, but the kit is available here as #27:

Feb 15, 2013 | Stanley Air Tools & Compressors

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Grease front axle u joints

I'm going to guess here & say you don't have any

My 04 Lincoln Ls has non & a cousins 05 expedition
has none that I have seen so far,unless you replace the
very common bottom ball joint failure issues ,then you get
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I would check the drive shafts though for fittings, they be
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Dec 12, 2012 | 2004 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Gun is full of nails, but acts like it is empty (the plunger won't advance). You go to tap it with the trigger pulled, and it just does nothing. Seems like firing pin is not getting air or somet

If no air is leaking from the gun, take out the nails, remove trigger by removing 3mm hex head bolt to expose the trigger pin. With air connected and side door open so that you can see the feeder, quickly depress the trigger pin with finger. Gun should fire. If gun does not fire (only makes air sound at trigger) dissconnect airline, remove head and lube headvalve with white grease and reinstall. Test again. If ok replace trigger. If still no joy, replace trigger valve with new factory or generic (part # TVA6). If gun fires but does not activate the feeder claw, remove two 6mm hex bolts from front of gun and split apart upper and lower body and check white oring (part # 149885) Good luck

Oct 16, 2012 | Stanley Bostitch Rn461 Gun Coil Roofing...

1 Answer

How to replace control arms on a 93 protege

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it by the frame with jack stands. Remove the front wheels using the air gun and a socket.

  • 2 Place the floor jack under the lower control arm as close to the ball joint as possible. Raise the jack until it begins to lift the control arm. Make sure that the floor jack is positioned where it cannot slip off the control arm.
  • 3 Remove the cotter pin in the upper control arm ball joint using the wire cutters. Remove the nut on the bottom of the upper ball joint using a wrench. Separate the ball joint using the ball joint separator tool. Insert the tool between the spindle and the upper control arm and hit it with a hammer until it comes loose from the spindle.
  • 4 Remove the upper control arm by removing the nuts on the engine side of the arm holding it to the frame. Use a wrench for this, but as the bolts are loosened, keep the alignment shims together that are behind each nut. It will be necessary to replace these on the side they were removed from for the alignment.
  • 5 Lift the upper control arm off and remove the upper ball joint using the ball joint installer kit. This procedure is only necessary if the new control arm does not come with a ball joint, which would be unusual.
  • 6 Place the receiver over the bottom of the ball joint and the smaller pusher cylinder on the topside. Place the large C-clamp from the kit over the cylinders. Use the ½-inch drive air gun and socket to push the ball joint out. Reverse the process to install the ball joint. Install the upper control arm in reverse order of removal.
  • Oct 27, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    How do you lube fron end of a 2000 LincolnTowncar Executive

    You need a grease gun and grease. Locate all grease "zerks" on upper & lower ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.. Clean of dirt & grime build-up off zerks, push grease gun on and give a few pumps, then on to next zerk.

    Mar 01, 2011 | 2000 Lincoln Town Car

    2 Answers

    Does the 2000 Lincoln Town Car have grease fittings on the front end?

    no they qiut using them in the 2000 model if there any, there on top of the tie rod ends. when they started using struts they got away from grease zerts and ured sealed lower ball joints in 2004 trey also used sealed tie rod ends...A.S.E. CIRTIFIED 30 year mechanic

    Feb 15, 2011 | 2000 Lincoln Town Car

    1 Answer

    I installed a new grease cartridge in my grease gun and grease does not come out when triggered.

    If the gun was working properly before you changed the cartridge, The gun is air-locked
    Two things: 1. Make sure the bottom rod is pushed in. 2. Holding the gun by the handle on the top left of the gun, below the hose there is a little metal valve. Push that vent valve down and pull the trigger repeatedly until grease starts to come out.
    If that doesn't work. Remove the grease hose, hold the vent valve down, pull the trigger a few times. Then release the valve and pull the trigger until grease comes out. Replace the hose.
    And if that doesn't work. Sometimes when you put in a new cartridge the metal "washer" that actually pushes the grease up the cylinder will get caught at the bottom of the new cartridge. Make sure the washer will move freely into the cartridge.
    That should do it!

    Jan 14, 2011 | Lincoln Automotive Pneumatic Grease Gun...

    1 Answer

    How do I lube the front chassis?

    Depends on the vehicle...some have no serviceable joints. If you're under the car, and you see grease fittings on things like tie rod ends, and ball joints, just take your grease gun in hand and give each one 3 to 5 pumps of the ol' gun, and you're lubed. In reality, the rubber boot under most serviceable fittings will expand a little, and then make a popping noise as excess grease begins to ooze out. It's usual, and that sound and/or seeing excess grease coming out away from the grease fitting are your clues that you have applied enough grease. You'll wanna be systematic about it, looking for each fitting on each side. Vehicles are sometimes asymetric, having one more to one side than the other, but usually involves a steering component, and should be considered "in the center", while the others remain "paired" left and right. Once out from under the vehicle, (or from underneath, if you're able to reach) check the top of each A-arm too (there's an upper and lower on each side) by reaching over/around the top of the front tire, and feeling for a "zerk"/grease fitting there too. These usually point up. Wipe up excess grease and repeat every couple of oil changes. It ain't rocket surgery, so don't be afraid to jump in there.

    Apr 18, 2010 | 1999 Ford Explorer

    2 Answers

    I have recently bought a 350 sl and the 2 month old mot had no report of any problems. i have left it in for a b service and they've informed me that it needs the front ball joints replacing even though it...

    It is possible that the ball joints are bad.
    Was there any noises, steering, handling problems before this?
    The ball joints may not have been properly lubed during preventative maintenance. The rubber boots may have developed a leak, depleting the grease needed for the joint.
    In any case, you may get a second opinion at another shop.
    Usually you can look at the joints and pry up between the ball joint on the lower arm and the steering knuckle to gauge the play of this joint.
    Jack-up and properly support the vehicle on jack-stands.
    Engage the emergency brake.
    Remove the front tires.
    Lock the front wheels by removing the Key from the Ingnition.
    Remove the Brake: Calipers and Rotors to gain better sight of the ball joint and lower steering knuckle connection.
    Carefully inspect the ball joint seals for tears and leaks of grease.
    Using a prying tool, carefully insert it between the ball joint and steering knuckle avoiding tearing/splitting the ball joint rubber seal; and pry up and or down looking for any play.
    If there is play, the ball joint is worn and must be replaced immediately.
    If there is no play, the shop was "upselling" you something you did not definitely need.
    If the Ball Joints appear to be void of grease: Using a grease gun - lubricate the ball joint using the nipple located on the bottom of the ball joint.
    Make sure you check both left and right sides.
    Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at!

    Feb 25, 2010 | 2003 Mercedes-Benz SL-Class

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