I need to rebuild a Schwinn bicycle crank hub, I need help
Pedals were 'loose' so I took the crank hub assembly apart, ball bearings fell out?! I need to rebuild/replace the whole thing ... if I could get an exploded diagram it would make it easy to order parts, can you help? this is a Schwinn Mountain bike = model Sidewinder 2.6fs serial # 06c18928 / SNMNG can you help?
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You should have a sealed hub assembly. You change the whole thing as a unit. You need to remove the wheel and brake caliper, rotor, hub nut, and sometimes have to take off the swaybar end link and pop the lower ball joint to separate the lower control arm from the spindle to gain access to the hub bolts on the back side of the spindle to remove the hub assembly.
Sounds like a bearing issue in the "bottom bracket" or the housing that holds the cranks, in other words. I would remove the crank and inspect the bearings. There are several different types of bearings. If your bike uses sealed bearings, your only option is usually to just replace them. a "caged" bearing consists of several actual ball bearings, set into a round metal cage that holds them in place. If you have caged bearings, remove them clean them thoroughly, and then re-pack them with bearing grease before reinstalling. also be sure to clean the bearing cups, or any surface that they may come into contact with. Any dirt, sand, or grit makes for a quick death for your bearings. Some bikes just use free floating ball bearings set into the bearing cups. If this is the case, smear a blob of grease into the bearing cups. This will hold the ball bearings in place while you install the rest of them. Be careful when re-inserting the crank not to knock any of the ball bearings down into the bottom bracket. From the sounds of your description, you may be missing a ball bearing or two. Check to make sure there are no large spaces between any two ball bearings. If you could fit another ball bearing into the bearing cup without crowding any of the others out, then you are missing a bearing. Re-assemble everything as it came apart. When tightening the crank into the bottom bracket, be cautious not to over tighten. The crank arm shouldn\'t have any "wiggle" from side to side, and yet should still spin freely on its bearings. I sincerely hope this helps.
You need to replace the bearing / hub assembly . The play in the bearing and hub is what is making the noise . Unaddressed ( not repaired) can cause you to loose control of the truck and even roll over if if you loose the whole wheel and hub assembly.
the little balls are the bearings, ie: ball bearings, so they are the size, take them to a bike shop and get a replacement kit. Your crank is probably not bent , it takes a big crash or something to bend one. there is an adusjment nut and lock nut to set them back up. could be LH thread on the left hand side
If it was me i would replace the whole thing. You have to ask yourself how long you are going to keep this vehicle. If for a short time, only the bearing. If you will keep it for a longer period of time i would replace the whole thing, while you have it apart.
Hi, this could be caused by worn ball joints or worn wheel bearings. If the whole hub moves look at the ball joints to determine the play on the joints, if the wheel moves and there are no movement on the ball joints, then you need to replace the wheel bearings.
????? This vehicle should be equiped with tapered roller bearings. Ball bearinga are out dated and not used since the 60's. No on the hub assembly, The brgs go into the hub and are replaceable as a seperate part.. $ 500.00? This is a mechanic? Do this, jack up the front end of the vehicle and rotate the wheel to determine if there is a proble. Not ant rough or hanging up of ythe wheel while turning it. Then put one hannd on the top and one on the bottom and push and pull. You are now checking for loose bbearings. Any looseness or roughness is a call to have the wheel and hubs pulled and inspected. 500.00? He is trying to get rid of you by quoting an outrages price. If you accept the estimate he is all the more happier for ripping you off. Take it to another shop and say no more than " Please chk the front end and wheel brgs. DSay no more than that and leaave them to their work. They will call you when they need you. Ask for the old parts if you have them replace or repair.. My estimate. 20 to 30.00 in parts and shop time 1.5 hrs. A reputable shop will show you where,why,and how.the process works..
it should come out once you have disconnected:Brakes,strut,ball joint.tire rod end,cv joint!if it is not put the cv joint nut back on until safe enough to give it a tap with hammer to knock back & out shaft this should come as one piece HUB the bearing is pressed in! better to change whole HUB good luck this hopefully helped you out!
That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings