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If the room is cool, it sounds like the unit is operating correctly. It could be short cycling because the unit is over sized for the room being conditioned. if you can, increase to size of the load by opening a door into another room. As long as the refrigerant pressures equalize from high to low side internally and the compressor doesn't start up under load, you should be fine
Yes. due to low rpm of fan motor in the condensor copil. or dirty condensor coil. I If so, replace fan capacitor.
If all good, check the seating of condensor set. It needs minimum 2mtrs open space for air throw. If not due to overheat compressor gets short cycling on and off.
What is your model number. When a compressor short cycles it is most time caused by a start relay, start or run capacitor and a defective external overload.
Testing the compressor is also recommended before purchasing parts. Leaving the compressor running while it short cycles can also cause the internal overload damage because the compressor overheats while short cycling. Testing a compressor is like this test below.Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
This is called short cycling. It sounds like the compressor is getting hot and opening a bi-metal overload, which shuts the compressor off. The compressor cools, because it is not running and the bi-metal contacts close allowing the compressor to start again. This will repeat itself and is usually due to low refrigerant, which usually means there is a leak in the normally sealed refrigerant lines. The refrigerant cools the compressor windings and if it is low it cannot do that, hence the shutting off of teh compressor, cooling down process and restarting of your compressor. Short cycling will ultimately ruin the compressor.
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If the defrost cycle was stuck on then the compressor would not be humming trying to start. You may have a shorted compressor. Especially if its a frigidaire they are known to have the worst compressors. You can use a meter to check your compressor windings. You can check for a short by scratching the paint off the compressor and checking from each terminal to the bare metal on the compressor. If you have continuity then its shorted. Also check continuity from each pair of pins on the compressor. Good Luck _MJ_
If the condenser fan works , try replacing the compressor relay and overload (it;s the most common problem) but if the compressor still goes on and off , probably is burnt or jammed and has to be replaced.