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Ice maker does not shut off when bin is full - shutoff arm stays down, seems pushed down by ice

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I'd turn the ice maker off till the bin is low enough to get the arm free. Then watch how it behaves until the problem is sorted out. There should be a turnoff switch near the green light.

Posted on Apr 13, 2015

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It may be the arm in the ice maker is down. Even though the ice maker does not have the water hooked up if the arm above the ice bin is down it will still cycle the ice maker try lifting up the arm it should stay up this signals the ice maker that the bin is full and should shut off the ice maker. Hope this helps.

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Check the bin arm spring you will have to disassemble the front of the ice maker to do this and check timer motor could be getting hung up. not a cleaning problem. or replace the complete head.

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My side by side is not making ice. I can prime it and get ice, it will not make it on its own. Any Idea ?


Push the wire shutoff arm down to place it in the "On" position,if applicable. If the ice maker has a switch on the side, place it in the"On" position. Wait 24 hours after the refrigerator is installed for ice production tobegin. The freezer section must cool down to the correct temperature. (5 degreeor less) If a large amount of ice was removed from the bin, allow 24 hours forthe ice maker to produce more ice. Follow the water source line on the back of the refrigerator to the shutoffvalve on the water supply. Turn the shutoff valve counterclockwise to open itfully. Inspect the water source line for kinks. Straighten the line to removekinks. Scrape the ejector arm with a plastic utensil to remove ice buildup.

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1 Answer

The ice-maker shutoff arm in my LG LFX29560 doesn't move to the position to shut off making ice. It looks like ice falls on TOP of it, instead of pushing it up. I've checked it at different stages, and...


The arm should move to the up position just before dumping the next batch of ice thus preventing ice from piling up on the arm. After the ice is dumped the arm goes back down. Once the ice bin if full the arm cannot go down and this shuts the production of ice off. The arm will be supported on one or both ends. Make sure it is securely in place. Pull the arm to the up (off) position and then come back in a couple of hours to make sure no ice is being made. If it still is making ice then the control module or shutoff switch may be bad. There are 2 types of ice makers. One in which all the parts can be replaced individually and one in which there are bunched together in a control module. If there is a knob, pull that off first. Module units have holes in the face plate marked with a letter and do not have a separate shutoff switch. Component units have no holes and will have exposed gears. If you see no holes pry off the face plate. Now click this link on the procedure to test the shutoff switch on a component unit. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/check/shutoffswitch.php

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1 Answer

Ice maker does not work all of a sudden


Check your manual, there is a wire or device to shut off icemaker when the ice bin is full it is pushed up to stop the ice making process. Make sure it is not stuck in the up position (off) and is pushed down so it can freely move up and down. If that is not the problem it could be a bad micro switch for the shutoff device or a bad water valve.

Sep 04, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Icemaker in refrigerator won't stop making ice


Hi...

To fix your problem you need to check the shutoff arm.

An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position.

The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support. If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.

Test the shutoff switch.

There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.

Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shutoff arm.

The shutoff switch (labeled "A") is located near the shutoff arm (Labeled "B"). Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by three wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced

Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch a probe to the side terminal. Touch the other probe to one of the two other terminals. The reading should be either infinity or zero. With the probes still in place, depress the switch. You should now get the opposite reading.

Keep the first probe on the side terminal and move the other probe to the second terminal. The test results should be the opposite of the first terminal. If you had a reading of zero on the first terminal, when the switch was depressed, you should get a reading of infinity on this terminal.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.


Hope it is helpful for you

Thanks for using fixya

Ragards

ICmanServer



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1 Answer

Ice maker overfill


The metal off/on arm may be disconnected. A full bin should keep the arm in the up position and shut off the ice maker.
Remove, then re-insert the metal arm in the back of the ice maker control head.
Make sure that a full bin of ice activates the control arm.
You may need to buy a replacement arm that is longer so that the ice catches on the arm.

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2 Answers

Ice maker won't shut off when full


check the Shutoff Arm:

An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position (shown belowef280e4.jpg

The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support (see photo above). If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.
If unit continues making ice even when the shutoff arm is in the up (off) position, refer to the diagnostic table or for a modular ice maker, replace the control module.

check the Shutoff Switch:

Before testing the shutoff switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.

Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units (like the one shown below) usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shut off arm.
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Jan 30, 2009 | GE Monogram ZDI15C Automatic Icemaker

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