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Ice maker do not want to start working checked all fuctions and fuses power all OK.?

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ICE MAKER not making ice: God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good!

Inspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary.

WATER INLET VALVE:

Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.

The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.

Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY:

If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes.

If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.)
If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate.

This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced

On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently.
Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker:
The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced.
Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.

Posted on Apr 28, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Ice maker not working. Seems stuck. Freezer is cold. Ice maker does not move not water in try either.


After you have checked to see your water is turned on...

All the schematic diagrams I have looked at show a SEPARATE FUSE for the Ice Maker...

That is the cheapest and best trouble... and NOTHING will work without that fuse.

There is a separate water solenoid for the water... next cheapest issue (but you could eliminate that as a possibility simply by filling the ice tray manually)...

After that I would be ordering the Ice-Maker and keeping the old one for parts.

All the fill valve power and ice making SMARTS are inside the ICE-MAKER.

Good luck with that!

See below Ice Maker adj.

http://www.applianceaid.com/ice-fill-adjustment.html

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No water to ice maker


This could be because the ice is clumped in the ice bin. When the automatic defrost cycle occurs, heat is transferred to the freezer area. This can cause the cubes to melt slightly and refreeze back together. You can take the bin out and give it a good shake, or simply discard the cubes and start over with a fresh batch of ice cubes. By increasing the amount of food in the freezer compartment, you may be able to buffer the heat that comes from the defrost cycle and avoid clumping issues.
If you have a large ice bin and hardly use any ice, it is possible that the cubes have gotten stuck together just from the weight of the cubes on top of others.

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I have GE side x side cannot get ice to make or water thru the door I have changed ice maker and water valve also have made sure I have water to refrigerator and no frozen lines so don't know


if this box is a 2001 or newer it has a filter in water line. if this is it take filter and bypass that whole filter. also these boxs have main control located back of box and all fuctions go thru this board. If older than 2001 check icemaker were plugs in. You can force ejectors to make the ice maker run. cycle icemaker check for power at water valve. The ice maker valve is the small line

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Compressor will not start on a frigidaire refridgerator


The compressor gets power from compressor capacitor or compressor relay.On some models there is capacitor and on some there is relay.May be that relay or capacitor got shorted causing the problem.

But if that checks out ok,then its faulty compressor causing these.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

partsselect.com

--------------------

Before going to buy any parts directly.
Go through this troubleshooting help links.

-------------------------

This is list of refrigerator problems, which is normally faced in refrigerator.
You can go through the details, by clicking the link below:---

--------------
Refrigerator is not cooling properly?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/refrigerator-is-not-cooling-properly.html
-----------
Both refrigerator and freezer not cooling properly in refrigerator?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/both-refrigerator-and-freezer-not.html
----------
The ice maker not working: ---
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/ice-maker-stopped-working.html

------------
Compressor not running on refrigerator?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/10/compressor-not-running-on-refrigerator.html
--------
Water dispenser not working on refrigerator?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/10/water-dispenser-not-working-on_19.html

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Ice maker stopped making ice?

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2011/10/ice-maker-stopped-making-ice.html

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Water Overflows in Ice maker and freezes inside?

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2011/10/water-overflows-in-ice-maker-and.html

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How to replace Ice maker assembly?

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2011/10/how-to-replace-ice-maker-assembly.html

These will help.

Thanks,.

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Hoshizaki klm-450mah ice maker: nothing happens when machine is turned on. this unit has been trouble free for the last 5 years. after turning the unit on everything started as it should and one load of...


http://www.hoshizakiamerica.com/manuals/KML_F-and-H_series_serv.pdf
This is the service manual for you machine. The wiring diagrams on pages 56 and 57 shows that the machine does nothing unless the bin control is in the "Closed position. It is a temperature controled switch. If it is broken, not works. Check that out first.

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1 Answer

Everything seems to work just fine except the ice maker which stopped for no reason. I have checked everything. The water dispenser works well, the water pressure is more than sufficient. We lost power,...


I know of one trick that might solve your problem . First , make sure the lever that swings up and down during cycle is all the way down . Then , pour one eight ounce cup of water into the ice maker where the slots are . Hopefully , when the water freezes , the ice maker's sensor will detect the ice and start the dump cycle . If it does , and everything is OK inside the unit itself , it should be OK after it ejects the ice .

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2 Answers

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You won't have power to the solenoid till the ice maker dumps ice and sends signal requesting water. It only last for about 7 seconds.
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The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

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1 Answer

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