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My jvc sp pwa 370 subwoofer dosent come on

My sub dosent power up no sound

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

billynad
  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: Need service manual or schematic for SP PWA 10

http://www.fixya.com/support/p183860-jvc_th_a10_system/manual-17024/page-70

got there choose the right manuel for you i think you can download it you might need this software to read it www.adobe.com get adobe acrobat reader

Posted on Jan 18, 2008

SOURCE: JVC sp-pwm606

Hello, it,s very possible that it,s circuit protector built in to the sub (if it,s a self powered sub) gets to the point of overload and shuts off as a protection so that the speaker won,t get damaged and also so the internal amp tha,t pushing the speaker sound is also protected since theese amps all have heat buildup, their are two types of subwoofers ,They are the powered ones and the ones that are powered bt the surround amp ,The ones powered by the stereo surround amp/tuner tend to throw out less power to the sub and the ones that have internal power are mostly higher powered , Another thing you might want to check is your polarity to the speakers and also the omage , Most home theater system speakers are 8 ohm,s but their are speakers and amps that can be changed to 6 ohm,s ..so you might want to check the speaker rating also . Well hopefully you can use theese different methods to at least troubleshoot and discount the thing,s that are not the issues , Good luck and hope theese sugestions might help you , Sincerely Glenn

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

dunnbiker
  • 8546 Answers

SOURCE: Just got JVC SP-PWC50 subwoofer and 2 SP-THC60F

Your intended project sounds interesting. I like the idea of retasking older audio gear into modern multichannel sets. One good reason to use older equipment is that the specs, interfaces and interoperability are standardized so you can tell if/how a given amp and speaker will work together. I do it myself.

It looks to me like you have only part of an HTIB (Home Theater In a Box) system that uses a proprietary 8-pin connector and system cord that would come from the base unit/DVD/receiver (the 'brains', which you don't have). It doesn't appear to be designed for compatibility with other units, say, something that would bring in the 5.1 channel audio via either a digital (SPDIF) cable or via 5 separate RCA audio cables.

This subwoofer is self-powered and also provides amplification to up to 5 other speakers, two of which you have.

Their connection to the sub would be via standard speaker cables, likely the Red and White FRONT spring clips. The output terminals are rated up to 16 ohms so attaching a foreign speaker should not be a problem other than its having unpredictable frequency response.

Besides basic connection and signal processing, the missing DVD/Receiver would also decode and direct the 5.1 channels to the Sub and handle level matching of the channels. Without the 'brains' of the system you'll have to get creative to use the individual parts. The 8-pin input connection will be a big problem unless you're adept at getting inside the unit to figure out where things go before they come out at the speaker terminals. Then you'd have to do some rewiring.

UNDERSTAND THIS: Those connectors are OUTPUTS to speakers, not inputs from an Amplifier. If you hook that up wrong you better have a fire extinguisher handy. Kidding. But it could be bad.

The Front speakers are 3 ohm impedance, clearly designed to be used with the amps inside the Sub so I would be careful in trying to drive them with amps that aren't good at handling low impedances. Give it a try AFTER checking the low impedance tolerance of your amplifiers, but easy on the volume.

I would not expect all of this to be a worthwhile effort unless you just like the challenge. Even if you succeed in making a satisfactory electrical connection with your multichannel source as input there is no way to know if it will sound okay. With all-in-one systems the manufacturer may have matched the speakers up with special amplifiers that are designed for 3-ohm speakers and to shape the sound through active internal equalization in such a way as to produce flat response from non-flat-responding speakers - like Bose does, for example, but at least they tell you that's the case.

The stated spec is 200 watts (RMS) per channel at 3 ohms at 100Hz with 10% Total Harmonic Distortion, a very unusable spec. True and honest watts/channel specs look like, "XX CONTINUOUS watts per channel, all channels driven into 8 ohms (20 Hz - 20 kHz, +0.5 dB, -3 dB less than 0.5 percent THD)".

At only 27 lbs with a Power Consumption of only 160 Watts I'd say the Amps/Sub component of the package is a lightweight, literally and figuratively. Apples and oranges when compared to grown-up audio components. It might get loud but not cleanly. But that's just my opinion.

Here's the Owner's Manual for the entire kit...
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/257/257THC50.PDF

There's some discussion of the features, etc, here...

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_257THC50/JVC-TH-C50.html?tp=195&tab=detailed_info

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: where can i get a replacement fuse for a JVC

Try Radio Shack.

Posted on May 19, 2010

dunnbiker
  • 8546 Answers

SOURCE: I have the sub woofer

No, the powered subwoofer gets its signal AND power through the DIN connector so you'd have to second guess JVC engineers on which pins are power or signal; and what voltage level it supplies and then you'd have to come up with a source for the power. Managing the volume and relative levels would be a trick, too. Devastation lies down that path.

Get the prescribed JVC electronics or go with a whole new sound solution.

Posted on Jan 16, 2011

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