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Motor buzzes and won't run, gets hot then cuts out

Water pressure from mains ok, do not use extension leads, hose not coiled

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: pressure washer won't build pressure

The problem sounds like its in the handle.. trigger mechinism

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: karcher hd 5 11/c pressure washer no pressure

Your problem is simply a worn bypass valve on its awy out. It still works enough for mains pressure but can not pressurise when drawing water.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: Kracher k3 97, low pressure

your pressure relief valve is stuck open. try adjusting the nut shaped stem on the front of the valve to see if you can unstick it. if not you'll have to take apart and clean.

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • 92 Answers

SOURCE: pressure washer won`t pressure up

Dear rustrick281,
It seems that your pump needs a good service. The sucktion and delivery valves got faulty. The high pressure seals and the low pressure seals must be renewed. The pistons must be checked for corrosion and cracks. Also the pistons or one of the pistons got stuck due to oncorrect lubrication. The swash plate that drives the pistons could have got loose. So the motor turns and the pump stays dead. So a good examination and service must be done to the pump. To renew all the parts I have mentioned, you must buy a PUMP KIT for you model. The pistons are not included in the pump kit....but hopefuly the pistons are still good. Also the oil inside the pump must be renewed.
Regards,
Fulltech.

Posted on May 07, 2009

  • 691 Answers

SOURCE: Craftsman Pressure washer will not spray

your not missing anything, check the pump, they tend to go bad over time and may need replacing. The pump provides the pressure as well as the suction for the whole process, pulling water from the hose or tank and pushing it forcefully through the pressure washer line. If the motor is running and you have the water going through the line and to the pump, and no water is coming out, my guess would be the pump.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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1 Answer

Motor will not run, power ok, water thtough wand but at mains pressure. How do I tell if capacitor or microswitch?


When first use the motor will run for a second until the pressure build up stops it from then on if it doesnt run when the rigger is pulled but you get mains water out of the nozzle I would be checking for a partial blockage in the wand nozzle or hose
If it is a capacitor , the motor will hum but not move
if it is any switch the motor will not run for the second when you turn it on

May 23, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

Furnace problems


On - OK
1 Blink - Ignition failure. Check Gas flow, gas pressure, gas valve, flame sensor.
2 Blinks - Closed pressure switch. Check pressure switch (stuck in closed position).
3 Blinks - Pressure switch - failre to close. Check venter, pressure switch, vent blockage.
4 Blinks - Open limit switch. Main limit or aux limit are open. (My comment - Means overheating in chamber. Often result of blocked intake air. Bad filter. In my case, plastic wrap had been sucked into the intake. )
6 Blinks - False flame sensed. Check sticking gas valve.
Rapid continuous blinking - Incorrect twinning, incorrect primary polarity. Reverse transformer secondary leads, reverse primary wires.

Closed pressure switch can be from dirty combustion vents, bad chamber pressure - like missing screws, maladjusted gas pressure, failing pressure switch, loose hoses, moisture in the hoses or fan blades The switch need to be closed to ge the unit to work

Jan 23, 2008 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Bosch classix 1200 exprss washing machine will not move on from the wash cycle. it will keep on washing and never moves to the rinse cycle. pump and motor works ok.


WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle

Mar 25, 2015 | Bosch Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer runs but the water does not turn off, THe waterm hot and cold just run until I cut it off manually.


while machine is filling turn of power if the water is still entering machine you have a mechanical fault water valve hot or cold needs replacing if water stops when power turned of you ave an electrical or control problem check water level hose from tub to level switch for damage or perishing if ok check water level switch blow into it see if it clicks if not replace also while blowing hold pressure to see if the diaphragm in the pressure switch is not perished keep me informed

Nov 05, 2009 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

Over heating


Have you changed the thermostat? The way you describe it seem like a thermostat.

Jun 30, 2009 | 1998 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Water will not intake in a Kemore front load washer. Waters is on and we confirmed hoses and water lines clear


Have you removed the hose supplying the machine to check if the filter inside the inlet valve is blocked , or fo that matter is water being supplied down the hose?
Remember that the hose will be under mains pressure so have a towel handy when you remove the connector.
If it is clean then leave the hose off place your finger on the plastic thread of the inlet valve and get someone to set the machine going
You should feel a slight vibration if the coil which switches the water inlet valve on is being activated (Some of them really make a strong buzzing noise)
There is no electricity in that area so do not be frightened to put your finger on it.
If the filter is clean and the coil is buzzing you should get water going into the machine.
If the coil is not buzzing it has gone open circuit and needs replacing.
Worst case is that the programmer has broken (Very rare)

May 23, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

A/C turns on and works at times other times is does not.


Could it be that the a/c problem is noticed more on hot days when a malfunction would be more noticable?

It is doubtful the window problem is related to the a/c problem. But a window that doesn't operate might also be more noticable when you are hot and the a/c isn't working up to par you will be more likely to use the window. But hotter temps have physical properties that might raise resistance in a circuit, or the connections can be affected by the expansion of metal in the plug connections or within the window motor itself. Take some tuner cleaner to the toggle switches it will help if the contacts are dirty. Or a good whack on the door panel where the motor is might get it functional for a while.

If the compressor is kicking in and out it is probably the high pressure cut off switch doing its job.

Usually you want to check the freon pressures to see if it is low. By deduction my guess is its probably not a low freon situation if you usually get good cooling. Hot weather only increases the pressures, so a low pressure problem would theoretically improve.

There are 2 things I suspect, but I am not familiar with your specific vehicle, so this is a generic troubleshooter.
This is my checklist in order of likelihood, provided you aren't low on freon.

Overheating condenser coil-gets too hot and not able to dissipate the heat exchange efficiently. This raises the pressures until the high pressure cut out switch cuts the compressor off. When the condenser cools off pressures normalize and the hi pressure switch disengages, allowing the compressor to compress again.

CAUSES: Clogged condensor radiator fins- clogged with bugs & debris. Clean with high pressure to get the bugs out. Flush them out from the inside to the outside so the don't get lodged deeper in the coil.
Bad condenser fan; bad fan relay, blown fuse or open in circuit.
Clogged condenser coil- Internal blockage. May require condenser replacement, but radiator specialist maybe can by pass the bad spot depending on where it is - may get frosty near blocked area.

Overheating condenser will show up when you are stopped in traffic, but when moving- especially at hiway speeds- you push air through the condenser, which cools it and lowers the pressure, keeping the Hi pressure cut out switch from engaging. Does the belt squeal just before the compressor cuts out? This is a sure sign of a overheating condensor.

The condenser fan cools when you're not moving. Depending on your setup your condenser fan may not be on all the time. On older domestics the condenser is behind the radiator and the radiator fan cools both. On most foreign & newer cars the radiators are side by side with separate electric fans for each.

HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT THE CONDENSER. Start your car, open the doors wide and turn on the a/c on HI. Let it run until the compressor cuts out. Take a garden hose and run water over the condenser- does it steam a lot when the water hits it-then it is probably overheating- Continue to run water over it- DOES THE COMPRESSOR KICK BACK ON WHEN THE CONDENSOR COOLS OFF? If yes, your condensor is overheating.

Remove the water and let it run until the cut-out switch engages again. DOES THE CONDENSOR FAN ENGAGE AT ALL DURING THIS PROCESS? If Yes: Is it blowing normally or sub-par? If blowing normally the fan and circuit are working properly.

IF NO- the problem is a bad fan or fan circuit. Test the fan by disconnecting the 12vdc plug and jumping with 12 volts from the battery. DOES THE FAN WORK WHEN YOU JUMP IT? IF NO- your condensor fan motor is bad- replace it. IF YES- the fault lies in your condenser fan circuit. check fuses, relays, etc for that circuit.

If this isn't your problem here are more some things that may be going wrong, depending on your cars components and configuration.
Clogged condensor coil- flush debris with air or water pressure to the front. Clogged orifice tube or other component depending on what your system has. This is not exhaustive, but it is the most likely culprits.
Good Luck and rate this solution please

May 02, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

Worked well, then blew the fuse.


What you should do next is stop using an extension lead. As you've already discovered, there's a risk of the connection getting wet, which is potentially very dangerous, but this is probably not the main problem. Most extension leads (the normal domestic type) are simply not capable of carrying the current needed to run your pressure washer.
Rather than using an electrical extension, use an extension high-pressure hose and work further away from the machine (which also makes it easier to keep the machine dry).
If this doesn't sort the problem, please post here again and we'll try something else.  Good luck!

Mar 10, 2009 | Karcher K2.26 Electric Power Washer

2 Answers

Water level switch doesn't shut off the water


Washer Basics: Filling with water:
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.

Nov 13, 2008 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer

3 Answers

No hot water entering


1. Make sure water comes out of the hot water hose into a bucket.
2. Check to make sure the solenoid valve is working. The buzzing is the 60Hz on the coil and can make a lot of noise if valve does not operate properly. Try blowing into the hot water port. If the solenoid is functioning properly air will move freely, if not its stuck.

Jan 07, 2008 | LG TROMM WM2688H 4.0 cu.ft. Front Loading...

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