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The evapourator plate inside the fridge keeps icing up

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 5,323 Answers

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required









Posted on Apr 17, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 90 Answers

SOURCE: Fidge is icing up inside on the rear

Defrost problem, advance into defrost to see if heater comes. If it does replaced timer, if it doesnt you will need to check heater and defrost thermostat.

Posted on Jan 08, 2008

  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: leak - water not evapourating

check your doors may be not clossing (ajar) or check control to high

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: fridge not getting cold

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator2_bing.gif not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

Posted on Jun 03, 2010

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My fridge alarm keeps goin off and the inside the fridge is warm


It is very likely the defrost element has failed so it will just ice up in the back where you cannot see. Maybe switch it off for 24 hours and see if a lot of ice melts and then restart.

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Fridge keeps freezing


Can't solve your problem, but just to report we have exactly the same issue, a huge block of ice forms on the upper rear panel. The compressor seems to be running 24h, not matter where the 'thermostat' is set.

I suspect that there was/are a faulty batch of thermostats. Or (since there is no metal cooling plate to bolt it to) that the T/Stat probe has somehow come adrift from its correct sensing area and is not correctly sensing the temperature inside the fridge.

If I get to the bottom of the problem, I will re-post here.

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