Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer
Hello, My Kenmore dryer wouldn't turn on today. It worked perfectly last week. I have not made any changes to anything and I reset the breakers just to make sure none were tripped. What is odd is that I can check the three wires connected to the back of the dryer and the red and black have 220 volts, and the red and white have 220 volts, and the black and white have 0 volts. If I disconnect the power cord and check the wires as it comes out of the plug it tests correctly, white to black 110,, white to red 110,, red to black 220. I put it back on the dryer and get the first readings again. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
These are awesome solutions, L1 or the black hot wire supplies the lights and one leg of the heater while L2 the red power wire completes the circuit for the heater and powers the board. A great test is this, if the light is on and the load doesnt go, bad load. In this case trace the L2 line and find where the power stops, the first is the interface and the same goes for Frigidaire. I would also get the part number from Sears, tell them you will wait for money and then look for other local sources, it is worth the wait to save 80 dollars for a back order.
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
The thermal overload fuse is probably bad. It is located under the top of the dryer near or at the drum. Bypass it to see if that is it. Next area to look at is the element. It may have just went out.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
Based on your description of the problem, I came up with a theory. Your new dryer is of higher wattage than your old one and is therefore pulling more amperage. I'd also make a bet that your dual breaker in the basement has the number "30" printed on it. Whether it does or not, your breaker should be replaced.
NOTE---> Ideally, you'd begin by removing the breakers (there are 2 of them) from the panel and take them with you to Lowe's, Home Depot or Ace Hardware and ask one of the sales associates for a 40 amp version. This way, you'd be sure to get the right ones. If you don't want to do that, then open up the breaker box and copy all the information off of the dryer breaker (also take not of how wide it is... 1/2", 3/4", etc...). Basically you'll need who made it (Square D, G.E., etc...) and how wide it is. Use this info to shop for a 40 amp version.
I don't need to tell you that working inside a breaker box can be EXTREMELY DANGEROUS if you are not careful. Here is a picture of the inside of the box, NOTICE THE LUGS AT THE TOP! THEY ARE ALWAYS "HOT" AND SHOULD NEVER BE TOUCHED!!!!!
Before you remove the panel to access the interior of the box, TURN OFF YOUR "MAIN BREAKER" (it's shown in the picture above).
Now that all of the safety stuff is covered, all you gotta do is pull the bad breaker out and install the new one! Piece of cake, really. Here's a video on how it's done.There ya go! If this has been helpful for you, please remember to rate this solution. Thanks for using FixYa!
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
If you checked the voltage at the terminal block on the back of the dryer while it was plugged in, you should have gotten the following readings:
RED to BLACK = 220-240VAC
RED to NEUTRAL (White) = 110-120VAC
BLACK to NEUTRAL (White) = 110-120VAC
NOTE: If the wires are not color coded at the terminal block, the OUTER two wires (LEFT and RIGHT) are the HOT leads and the center conductor is the NEUTRAL.
If you got anything other than these readings, you may have a bad power cord or a service breaker tripped. Some homes use two separate breakers to make up the 220 service instead of one single 220 breaker. If one breaker is tripped, the dryer may or may not start, depending on which leg it is. Can you please confirm your readings?
You need to confirm you have the proper input voltage before assuming you have any bad components.
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite
Hello ratcliffe. I did a house call last week with this same problem. In that case it turned out that the circuit breaker, in the home's electrical panel, was shot and needed to be replaced. That said, electric dryers use 220 volts or two power lines of 110 volts each. Some components in the dryer need only 110 volts; the heating element requires 220 volts. So it's possible for one part of the dryer to be fine and another part to have a short circuit. Short circuits can be caused by the heating element, the main power cord, or any other part of the internal wiring.
To decide where the problem lies, unplug the dryer, then:
If the circuit breakers or fuses remain on and/or intact when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the dryer. Contact a qualified appliance repair technician. If the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the house wiring, fuse box, or circuit box. Contact a qualified electrician. JOE Thanks for choosing Fixya!
Posted on Nov 17, 2010
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