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How do it fix it?

Freezer temp stays between 7 to 21 degrees and the refrigerator has high temp up to 57 degrees

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 5,323 Answers

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ
REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"










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Posted on May 06, 2015

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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VANMAN69
  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: freezer works ok.refrigerator temp varies from 39 deg.to 60 deg.

check to see if there is frost in the back of the freezer if so you have a defrost prob..

Posted on Jun 29, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Profile refrigerator section not cooling

We are not sure what precipitated the temperature swing up; however, within about an hour of emptying quite a lot of foodstuffs from top and bottom sections of the unit, I felt the cold air start to flow out of the rear vent. Within two hours, the upper section had dropped to about 50 degrees and by the next morning to 36. The freezer seemed to recoved on its own too, having risen to almost 8 degrees and then recovering to 0. Just patience and a smaller food payload?

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

duby1990
  • 367 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore fridge and freezer not cooling

Check to see if there is any ice built up on the back wall of the freezer. If so thaw the ice and take the back wall out of the freezer. next check to see if the fan is running in the freezer (evaporator fan) This fan is what circulates the air from the freezer to the fridge. If it does run then you have a defrost problem (if ice is on the coils and back wall). Then replace defrost timer, heater, and thermostat.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: fridge not holding correct temp. fridge is 55 and freezer is 25

Sounds like a defrost problem.

Posted on May 07, 2009

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I have a GE

Hi Mark and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Touch the front of the unit where the doors close and feel if it is very very warm to the touch. If it is very warm to the touch... here are the prime suspects:
1. condenser coils covered in lint
2. condenser fan not running or running slow.

An easy way to determine if there is a condenser fan or coil fan problem is to simply direct a floor fan at the base if the refrigerator. If it cools down substantially in an hour.... there is a problem with the coils being clogged or the condenser fan not running. If that makes no difference... before opening the back of the unit... inspect the back wall of the freezer compartment for any signs of ice build up. If you see ice-build up.... unplug the unit.. remove freezer contents and direct that fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. Then return the unit to normal service.... If the temps come down to normal... for 2 - 3 days then start creeping up again... you have an automatic defrosting problem.

Forgot to mention... make sure the evaporator fan is running at full speed.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly


Posted on Jun 03, 2011

Testimonial: "Thanks Kelly, Unit was loaded with ice. The heater was bad and I also changed the thermostat since it was opened. Thanks again Mark"

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Check to see if there is any ice built up on the back wall of the freezer. If so thaw the ice and take the back wall out of the freezer. next check to see if the fan is running in the freezer (evaporator fan) This fan is what circulates the air from the freezer to the fridge. If it does run then you have a defrost problem (if ice is on the coils and back wall). Then replace defrost timer, heater, and thermostat.

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