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You need to check your front end very close. Start by making sure the ball joints and all 4 tie rod ends are tight, zero movement by hand. Also check the pittman arm, off the steering box and the idler arm, from the frame on passenger side. They should not have any play. Work all the tie rod ends on the drag link, which hooks them together. Sometimes the holes in it will wear. The tie rods shouldn't move in it. Have a look at the control arm bushings. If they are squished out and noticably cracked then they need to be replaced. Check both the uppers and lowers.
If that all checks out then the problem is wear in the steering box and that does have some adjustment but not really enough to take 2" of play without making other problems. You'll have to replace it. Hope this helps.
Uncer normal use a nylon bushing on the column wears out and/or cracks and prevents proper adjustment. You can get any nylon or teflon bushing with the same ID as the column OD and that should do the trick.
Is there a counterweight on your arm or is the an adjustible spring setting? You need to move the counterweight toward the needle. You dont need much but the needle end needs to be heavier than the back side. If your anti skating is a magnet ... reduce the force on that as well.
The throw out bearing arm was on the outside of the clutch actuator arm. The throw out bearing arm should go into the clutch actuator arm with a bolt going into the clutch actuator arm through the throw out bearing arm. I used some blue locktite to make sure the bolt didn't come out again. See pic below.
I LOVED the 40bs, and if you look at the size selector, which is located at an angle to the right side at
the front along with the manual or auto setting in the front. There are 4 settings, 78-10, 45-7, 33-12,
and 33-7 for the speeds and sizes of the recordings.
i would check with the owners manual to see if it shows an adjustment for the belt drive. most mowers today are equipped with a self adjusting arm witha pulley tensioner with a spring attatched to it. as the belt stretches the tensioner spring pulls against the arm causing it to apply tension to the belt thus tightening it. it sounds as if your belt is stretched beyond the limits of the tensioner. at least every new season it would be a good idea to inspect the belt tensioner for room or space of free play. that is to check to see if it will move opposite the pulley allowing the belt to tighten. if there is not enough sufficient room then i suggest replacement of the drive belt.
To adjust the chain you need to make sure you make the adjustment with the swing arm parallel to the ground, (this is the tightest point in the arc of the swing arm moving rotation), at that point you want to be able to put two finger between the chain and the swing arm at the swing arm pivot bolt. This will insure proper adjustment every time. The best thing to do is have somebody sti on the bike off the stand to make sure the swing arm is at its MAXIMUM arc, otherwise you stand a significant chance of over tightening it and this can and WILL cause SERIOUS damage to your engine. You will rip the output shaft bearings out of the center cases. You also want too make sure you have proper wheel alignment as well. There are marks on the rear of the swing arm for adjusting the chain, make sure you have the marks on the adjusters in the same location on BOTH sides of the swing arm. Please let me know if you need further assistance. Regards, RSelvy