Question about Ovens

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What would cause the broiler element to override the baking element? My oven has lost its mind. It doesn't matter what setting I use, The broil element takes over and burns everything. Please help.

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  • Master
  • 473 Answers

Not 100% sure but my guess. Most electric ovens usually bake with both elements on. The bake element(bottom) is usually on at full power with 240 volts to it. The broil element(top) is usually on at 1/2 power 120 volts to help even out the temperature. My guess is your bottom element is not coming on at all either because it is burned out or something in the control system. So what is happening is the oven is trying to heat to the set temp with only the top element keeping it on much longer than it normally should be on and burning everything. Now if you set the oven for bake and the top is on red hot, you have a control system problem something like a bad selector switch or main control board if the oven has a electronic control.

Posted on Apr 11, 2015

  • Angie Poe
    Angie Poe Apr 11, 2015

    Thanks Jerry. I know it isn't the bottom element Bc my first step was to replace that part. It's definitely in the control system, and the broil does just what you said. RED, RED. I appreciate your advise!

×

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Faulty bake or broil element

You will need a T20 screwdriver (star shaped) to remove the back plate on the electric oven

Posted on Dec 29, 2006

hotuna
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SOURCE: Oven not working in Bake setting

Visually inspect the element for any kind of rupture on the shield covering the element. If it looks good the next step is the wire connections at the back of the element. Most likely is has a burnt wire.You will have to pull the back cover off to check this.

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

SOURCE: Jenn Air w30400b with F2 code

Since the elements are working fine, the thermostat seems to
be in question or, the contacts and connections to the thermostat
are loose etc. This seems to be a controller / temperature thermister problem and since it is intermittent, it might just be
bad contacts in that area of the circuits. see this description below.

INGLIS Royal 100 STOVE F1 F2 F3 ERRORS
Mode lUP 48500 ( thats eye you, not ONE U )

I got the dreaded F3 error on the Display Panel,
every time I pressed BAKE or BROIL, BUT, I could
hear the three relays click in, and then kick out in
sequence, just before the F3 appeared.

I called Westinghouse ( that services INGLIS ) and
was told that F3 " means unpug for 1/2 hour and then
press CLEAR 5 Seconds to reset ". Which is nonsense.

All functions on the clock and timer work fine, and the
three relays were working, so its not a computer problem.
I called service REPAIR companies who said it was the
THERMOSTAT, and replace it - $147.99 ... The Glass tube
of the display is $200 with no circuit board, the relay board
is $300 and the computer/display is $400.

I did tests on the thermostat, first heating it with a propane
lighter, and it raised from 475 Ohms at room temperature,
to 600 ohms, so I knew it was functioning.

Then, I plugged in a variable resistor where the thermostat
plugs in. I went from Zero Ohms resistance to 5000 Ohms in
200 Ohms steps.

Zero Ohms ( equal to burnt out or unplugged) gives you
an immediate F1, which you cannot clear.
From 100 Ohms to 400 Ohms, you get Error F2, which
means thermostat too low.
From 400 Ohms to 665 Ohms there is no error.
At 665 Ohms, the BAKE will beep twice, stating that you
are setting the temperature at or lower than the actual temperature
of the oven ( you cant set the oven at 200, for example, if it is
already at 450 Degrees )
Using this 2 Beep code, I raised and lowered the resistance
and made a graph of the reading on the display versus the
OHMS that the thermostat would send to the controller:
665 Ohms = 170 Degrees Farenheit, which is the
lowest reading in the BAKE MODE.
800 Ohms = 240 Degrees
1100 Ohms = 380 Degrees
1400 Ohms = 500 Degrees, which iis the maximum that
the unit showed in the BAKE MODE.
1430 Ohms to 2750 Ohms, there was no reading, an NO ERRORS.
ABOVE 2750 OHMS, the F1 ERROR appeared again, meaning
thermostat out of range.

Note that the computer module supplies 5 volts DC to the thermostat,
to see the changes in current with changing resistance.
You can easily check the thermostat to see if it is OK, with an
Ohmeter across the thermostat, which should read about 475 Ohms
at room temperature. If it reads Zero, it is burnt out. If it reads
over 2750, it is defective. Check to see if the thermistor in the
tube is SHORTED to the steel outter case as well, as this should be
infinite ohms ( no contact )- if it reads ZERO it is shorted to case.

I found that on the Internet, there are hundreds of people looking for
the F3 code for the ROYAL 100 ( model number IUP 48500 )
and a general search shows that for 400 " other" models of all kinds,
F3 = REPLACE THERMOSTAT ! Not on this model, and all typical searches
for technical support or diagrams or troubleshooting did not even list
the Royal 100 AT ALL, as if it never existed.

I then did tests on the relay board, and replaced the capacitors, a few diodes,
some resistors that were a bit out of value, and two transistors that were
a bit out of value. There was no change in F3.

I cleaned the contacts on the three relays using a typical board fingernail
file that ladies use for their finger nails ( I keep a supply for cleaning
relay contacts, since there is sandpaper on both sides, and they are
tiny enough to fit between most contacts ). THEN, I realized that the BROIL
contacts were bouncing apart - they were too far apart, and not closing
properly, so I bent the stationary contact a bit closer, and plugged in the
stove = NO ERRORS..

I analysed the circuit, and after turning on the 3 relays ( NOTE, when you
turn on BAKE, as in a regular oven, THE BROIL ELEMENT goes on at first
to quickly help the BAKE element get the oven up to temperature )
there is a feedback circuit that feeds 250 Volts back into the 5 Volt computer
chip ( ! ! ! ) It uses two 22 Meg Ohm resistors in series for a total of 44 Million
Ohms, which shows about 46 volts accross the resistors. Since the gas
tube display uses 30 volts to light up, the 46 volts is within the computer
board's ability to lower it enough to feed into the computer. There are transisors
on the back of the control board and Zener diodes etc. to " compare " the
voltage, where 46 volts in = 250, and Zero volts, means that the element
is burnt out, the element fuse in the fuse panel is burnt out, or, the relay
contacts are dirty. The relays are absolutely standard 24 volt relays,
with a plasic cover that snaps off if you pull and wiggle it. You will see
the round silver contact pads are blackened and probaly pitted.
Sand these flat until silver/brass shiny, and test to make certain that
when you press the metal lever that the magnetic coil pulls DOWN,
that the contacts touch! If they do not touch tight, bend the
stationary contact in a tiny bit and test again.

You can first check the fuses - there are two 120 volt fuses in the
fuse panel that give you 250. Then, you can unplug the stove,
and use an OHM meter to see if the element is burnt. The two types
of elements I checked were 3000 Watt at 18.7 Ohms, and 2500 Watt,
at 48 Ohms. If the elements are burnt out, you will get ZERO ohms.
If the element is burnt internally through the insulation in the tube,
and shorting to ground, between the ends and the steel back of the
stove ( ground) you will get a reading of X amount of ohms ( which
normally should be ZERO ) If the element is burnt or shorted to
ground, replace.

The F3 error is a really dumb mechanical errror of whether the 250 volts
is on the elements. It does not involve the computer or the thermostat,
or the relay " electronics" at all - it is just simply 3 contacts that supply
250 Volts, and whether or not the contacts work, the elements work,
or the fuses work. This the same 250 Volts that is on an ordinary
dial stove, and the dumbest part of the whole unit.

When I called service, they said they would order the $147.95 temperature
thermostat, and " see if this fixes the problem", if not they would start
replacing the modules - $300 and $400, plus labour, plus tax etc., and
since the problem was on the module, this would cost $147.95 + $300,
plus $75.00 for the first 15 minutes, and $15 for each additional 15 minutes,
for a total of about $466 dollars ( CDN ) which is about $460 dollars US.

A package of 25 fingernail files is $1.00 at the dollar store. That is all that
it cost to fix the problem. You need a square ( Robertson ) head screwdriver
to remove the 7 screws on the back panel, and then you wiggle the
covers off the relays, and clean them. It takes 10 minutes.

good luck ! Damned the manufacturers for not putting this information
in the user manual.

Robin Graves, January 2008, kidbots.com

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: broiler element not working

It's either the switch that supplys power to the broiler element or it's the element itself (probably the element itself). I'd go after that first as it's not that expensive.

It's not a thermostat because if it was, the bake element wouldn't work either. The broiler element is not supposed to come on except when in the broil mode or cleaning mode.

Posted on Mar 14, 2008

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: KENMORE GAS STOVE OVEN LOWER BURNER WON'T WORK

Most likely a hot-surface ignitor has failed. If it doesn't consume enough current, the gas valve won't open. It's usually a fairly easy fix, once you gain access to the ignitor and have a new one to replace it with. Make sure you unplug the range...

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

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Related Questions:

1 Answer

Bake and broiler element come on when bake is selected. Why?


Understand that I am not a professional, so this answer is subject to revision by someone who is more knowledgeable.

Where I live now I'm on Natural Gas, but in the past I've had electric stove/ovens. Based on my best recall the situation you describe is NOT abnormal.

When in the Broil mode, the Bake element is NOT on, but the Broil element is on FULL-bore to provide that strong radiant heat required for the Broiling process, AND for the good browning /crusting of the product being Broiled!!!!!

On the other hand, when Baking, not broiling, IF the Broiling element were on high it would provide too much radiant heat to the top of the product being Baked, and would burn the top.

While Baking, by energizing the Broil element in a lower power setting, the Baking process is enhanced with more heat by the assistance of the Broiler element, BUT without the hazard of burning on the top!!!!!

Hope this is right and helps your understanding.

Jan 16, 2015 | Ovens

1 Answer

First start up


You're actually referring to the "broiler" elements. Most electric ovens have these at the top of the main oven space. (Some gas ovens are set up the same way, but many put the broiler elements in a bottom drawer.)

As their name implies, broiler elements are active only when you're broiling. They will not go on for baking.

Broiling is the process of cooking food by exposing it directly to a high heat source at close range. To broil a steak, for example, you would place the pan holding the steak on an oven rack raised to the top or next to top position in the oven (consult the manual) and set the oven to broil. The top elements will then turn on and cook the meat by direct radiation.

Most people, however, use ovens for baking far more often than for broiling. Baking is the process of cooking food (cakes, casseroles, roasts etc) by indirect heat. In other words you raise the oven to a certain temperature, put the food on a rack more in the middle of the oven, and let the surrounding heat cook it over time. When you bake the top broiler elements usually don't come on at all.

I hope this helps.

Apr 30, 2014 | KitchenAid Ovens

1 Answer

Will the oven work without the broiler attached


You could use the oven without the broiler. It is customary that the oven will use the broil element to even out the heat in the oven for better baking but you could use if. it just may not bake evenly. There could be two things that is causing the broil element to stay energized. the control is not shutting down or there is a short to ground in the broil element. Have the broil element tested, it could just need replacing. If it is in the control that is a bigger problem.

Mar 19, 2014 | Ovens

1 Answer

My broiler doesn't work in my JennAir S136 range and I think the problem is the selector switch. How can I confirm this?


Hello,

To do that you could check if the correct power is going to broil element.That can by TURNING OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER, remove door by opening to appx 30 degree position where is shold stay open,pull off door,remove broil element and attach a volt meter set to measure at least 240 volts ac and attach the meter leads to the wires on broil element, restore power set controls to broil and check for 240 vac at element. If 240 vac at element it's the element thats defective, if 240vac not present the selector switch is the problem, espically if bake works

Good luck,i hope this helps ya diagnose your oven

Gene

Jul 31, 2011 | Ovens

2 Answers

I have a Fridgidaire Model # PLEB30S8CCC wall oven. The broiler works fine. The oven is very slow to heat up, 20 minutes to reach 250. I checked the lower element with a omp meter it read 20. Is that...


Hello there and than you for choosing Fixya
If your oven does not heat, does not heat enough or does not broil, a common cause is a burned out heating element. There are two elements, the baking element on the floor of the oven and the broiling element on the ceiling of the oven. They are about the diameter of a pencil and typically supported by metal stand-offs.
This easiest test you can do is to turn on the oven and observe the heating element. If it glows red, the element is working. When baking, the broiling element may come on to assist with preheating or to maintain the oven temperature. When set to bake, if the broiler comes on, but the baking element does not, the likely cause is a burned out baking element.
When set to broil, the broil element should glow red, but the bake element typically is not used. If the broiler does not glow, it is likely a burned out heating element.
There are other possible causes of these symptoms, refer to our diagnostic page for some other possibilities.
To test the heating element using a multimeter, follow the steps provided below.
  1. Unplug the oven or turn off the power at the breaker or fuse box.
  2. Follow the heating element back to where it goes through the wall of the oven. Remove the bracket that secures the element in place.
  3. Unscrew or unfasten any stand-off supports that secure the element to the oven.
  4. Pull the element part way out to expose the oven's wiring connected the element.
  5. Label the wires and secure them in place so they do not fall back into the cavity.
  6. Disconnect the wires from the element.
  7. Using a multimeter set to x1, touch one probe to each of the element contacts. Expect resistance in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. Infinite or kilo-ohm resistance usually indicates a bad element and it should be replaced.
  8. If the element tests okay, reconnect the wires, slip them back into the cavity and resecure the element.

Jan 26, 2011 | Frigidaire Ovens

1 Answer

The baking element in the oven does not appear to be working


HI.I would test to confirm the actual issue. This easiest test you can do is to turn on the oven and observe the heating element. If it glows red, the element is working. When baking, the broiling element may come on to assist with preheating or to maintain the oven temperature. When set to bake, if the broiler comes on, but the baking element does not, the likely cause is a burned out baking element.When set to broil, the broil element should glow red, but the bake element typically is not used. If the broiler does not glow, it is likely a burned out heating element.


Use This procedure below to confirm the failure.

With a multimeter, use these steps below to physically test for element functions.

1. Unplug the oven or turn off the power at the breaker or fuse box.

2.Follow the heating element back to where it goes through the wall of the oven. Remove the bracket that secures the element in place.

3. Unscrew or unfasten any stand-off supports that secure the element to the oven.

4.Pull the element part way out to expose the oven's wiring connected the element.

5.Label the wires and secure them in place so they do not fall back into the cavity.

6.Disconnect the wires from the element.

7.Using a multimeter set to x1, touch one probe to each of the element contacts. Expect resistance in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. Infinite or kilo-ohm resistance usually indicates a bad element and it should be replaced.

8.If the element tests okay, reconnect the wires, slip them back into the cavity and re-secure the element.

Oct 05, 2009 | Smeg Ovens

1 Answer

Whrilpool GR450LXHB2- The stovetop works, but the


It won't bake or broilIf neither the bake nor the broiler heating elements heat, but the range burners still work, the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. Check to be sure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your clock has a knob that says "push for man(ual)", push the knob in and try the baking and broiling elements again. If it still does not operate properly, you probably have a defect in the thermostat, selector switch, or common wiring.

If the oven does not have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector switch, the problem may be with the thermostat. But it's not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  • When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.


  • You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.

    If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.

  • When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it could be one of several different things. First check to see if the thermostat sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be lying on the floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This would cause the oven to not heat correctly.


  • If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective.

    Electronic ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature. To solve temperature problems for these models, you may need to replace the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details.

    Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat.

    If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.

It won't broil Usually, when an oven won't broil, it's because the broiler element is burned out. The broiler element in an electric oven is the black, pencil-thick tube at the top of the oven. When the broiler is on, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

Aug 25, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Broiler element comes on when "bake" is pressed


does the bake element come on at all?
if so, try the oven out. do a bake @ 350 allow it to pre-heat, and see if once the pre-heat is comlete, id the broil shuts off.
on many ovens at the beginning of the cycle during pre-heat both bake and broil elements are powered.

other than that it may be a control board, or a burnt and crossed wire in the harness.

May 28, 2009 | GE JTP15 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Broiler will not work


you should visually check the top element, make sure there are no breaks in it.
other than that, most common problem would be burnt wires in the back that connect to the broil element.
usually just a matter of reconnecting.
if you pull the rear panel yourself.. be sure to unplug unit. alot of power back there.

May 27, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Kenmore oven lower element sporadically heating.


When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.

You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.

If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.

May 27, 2009 | Ovens

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