Question about Maytag Washing Machines
WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle
No spin, or lite spin try these:
Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.
Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.
Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)
Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven.
On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand.
Posted on Apr 13, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
LR usually means that the the signal from the board is not getting to the motor either because of a bad connection at either the motor or the board or the motor itself is no good. Need to check the connections first.
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
Check out the motor control board near the floor on the right side. These have a high failure rate on the Neptunes. Maytag redesigned both the motor and motor control board to be more reliable. While inspecting this board, you are looking for a blown 10 amp fuse and /or burnt components. If you have either... then you will need the the new 12002039 motor conversion kit which includes the motor, motor control board and the wire harness.
This kit takes about an hour to install.
Don't forget to replace your door latch wax motor. See www.neptunehelpsong.com to hear a funny song explaining the faulty door latch failure.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
most common issue with these is the door lock assy. You need to remove the control panel and check the R11 resistor on the board most likely it will be burnt. This was a common issue a few years back. If the R11 resistor is burnt you need to replace the door lock AND control board or your problem will occur again.
Hope this helps _MJ_
Posted on Jan 31, 2010
The machine control detected that the rotor is "locked". It happens when no tach signal is sent to the machine control from the motor control either due to a faulty motor control board, a faulty drive motor, or a faulty wiring harness connection between the motor control board and the machine control board.
Disconnect power to the washer prior to servicing to avoid the risk electric shock. Open the washer door and turn the drum manually to verify whether the rotor or the tub bearing is stuck or not. Proceed below when the drum rotates freely; otherwise refer to the next troubleshooting guide.
Remove the four screws from the rear of the console attaching it to the rear cover plate. Cushion the top cover of the washer with a cloth. Grasp the top of the console and gently rock it forward away from the rear cover plate, and then flip the console to the top of the washer to access the machine control board.
Disconnect the 4-pin and 3-pin wiring harness connector at the left bottom of the control board including the 3-pin connector on the right bottom side. Clean the connectors and the pin terminals using an old toothbrush or any similar tool and electronic cleaning solution; 70% alcohol will do.
Hold only the edges of the control board when cleaning the terminals to avoid electrostatic discharge (ESD) to the electronic components that may cause damage to the board. Touching the unpainted part of a concrete wall or metal water pipeline repeatedly will help prevent ESD damage.
Reseat the wiring harness connectors repeatedly. In this manner, the terminals are thoroughly cleaned to ensure a good connection.
Reinstall the console by aligning the hooked tabs at the bottom of the console with the slots in the top cover. Insert the tabs into the slots and rock the console back into position then secure it to the rear cover plate with the four screws removed previously.
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
SOURCE: LR CODE ON DISPLAY
The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.
Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.
The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.
The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.
Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.
The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.
Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.
Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.
Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.
Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.
Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.
The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.
They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.
The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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